sako 75 question

Discussion in 'The Basics, Starting Out' started by fourinone, Feb 6, 2005.

  1. fourinone

    fourinone Well-Known Member

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    I have a new Sako 75 III in Stainless Synthetic and would like to remove the stock without any damage. I removed the two screws in the bottom that screw into the action and tried to remove the barreled action but it still seems to be in there pretty tight. Is there more to remove than the two screws that I mentioned above?? Also if anyone has knowledge on how to correctly put it back together as far as screw torque and which one to tighten first...etc. Thanks
     
  2. sakofan

    sakofan Well-Known Member

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    [ QUOTE ]
    I have a new Sako 75 III in Stainless Synthetic and would like to remove the stock without any damage. I removed the two screws in the bottom that screw into the action and tried to remove the barreled action but it still seems to be in there pretty tight. Is there more to remove than the two screws that I mentioned above?? Also if anyone has knowledge on how to correctly put it back together as far as screw torque and which one to tighten first...etc. Thanks

    [/ QUOTE ]

    Did you remove the detachable mag first?(Really don't need to do it, but it's easier)
    It's a little tight, especially on new rifles, but once you have the two screws out, she should pop right out.

    I'll let a more competent person describe the correct reassembly proceedure...sakofan.. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
     

  3. fourinone

    fourinone Well-Known Member

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    Thanks Sakofan! Yes I did have the mag out at the time. I guess I need to give it a couple of harder strikes with the palm of my hand on the under side of the barrel just above the forearm of the stock. I just didn't want to start in on it only to find out that: Oh, this needs to be removed first. I've done that before on other things and don't want to add this to the list. Thanks and if anyone has any tricks that would help with the Synthetic stock being removed and also is this a pretty good stock? Are there any drop in after market stocks that would be an improvement worth buying?? Thanks again
     
  4. preacherman

    preacherman Well-Known Member

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    Fourinone...there are only the 2 action screws to contend with...I know the feeling the first time I removed this same stock...it will remove ok with a little effort... this stock is my favorite for an injection molded stock, but mine had a hairline crack completely through the recoil lug area... someone mentioned on this forum he was told they all have this crack but it's no big deal... I really don't know... but just be sure to take a good look around inside once the stock is removed... you would be well served by upgrading to a McMillan is that's within your means... good shooting...
     
  5. sakofan

    sakofan Well-Known Member

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    I have looked at a couple differant stocks for my Sako, and I agree with Larry O.
    McMillan stocks are the heat!! They offer, or did offer a couple of years ago, some pretty cool replacements for your M75.

    Congrats on a great rifle!!! Lucky you!!....sakofan....out!
     
  6. fourinone

    fourinone Well-Known Member

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    Thanks again for all your input. I did get it off, just wanted to be sure before I started striking harder on it. I did not see any cracks in the recoil lug area. I did notice that the material was a different color than the rest of the stock. Maybe they machined that area away in order to fill it in with some sort of bedding compound?? It's black in color where as the rest of it is a grey shade of green or green shade of grey, something like that. I do think this to be a better synthetic stock compared to all of the others I've seen. I'll try it out first...plus I'll have to start my piggy bank over now that it's empty from this gun/scope combo. I like the McMillan stocks but can't just now go and buy one. I have one on a 40X rimfire and don't regret it at all....lot cheaper eleven years & and two children ago.
     
  7. preacherman

    preacherman Well-Known Member

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    Fourinone... the different color material you mention could be the "fix" needed for that particular stock... sounds like you should be just fine... good shooting...
     
  8. sakofan

    sakofan Well-Known Member

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    fourinone, what scope/mount combo did you go with??....sakofan.......
     
  9. fourinone

    fourinone Well-Known Member

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    Sakofan: Here's what I ended up with after originaly buying for a Browning Bar. I bought a Nikon Tact. 30mm 2.5-10 mil dot scope and Talley low rings & bases. This fit real nice and low on the Bar. The more I looked at the Bar the more I didn't like it. So I traded up to the Sako 75 in 7mm08. I asked if the gun came with scope mounts like the Tika and the gun shop owner said yes. Well when he sent for the box from the back, no scope mounts in the box and none in stock. He said he would get me a set and I asked for 30mm if I had a choice. So he ordered in 30mm low optilocks and called me when they came in. So for no extra charge I got those. I most likely paid for them with the gun price of $1,100.00 but he was real good on giving me full price back on the Bar. I never shot the Bar but had it for 2 months. Anyway I talked to Talley about his Sako mounts and it seems to mount on the same groove on the action as does the Sako bases and then converts to the picatinny base so that his rings will fit. I didn't buy the Talley but concluded that the Talley system would set up as high as the Sako system, not real sure about that but if it didn't set as high it would not be very much lower being I had the low Talley to compare with at the time. Talley was for sure higher in the ring verses ring comparison. I don't think Talley could have been low enough in the bases to more than make up for their ring being taller than Sako. Don't get me wrong: I do think Talley is a stronger system!! Being there was no advantage in it getting my scope lower and I don't have a 30mm lapping tool the Optilocks for no extra money won out for now. I already read about the screws being easy to round out and feel with this foreknowledge and some Red Locktight, proper cleaning and cure time, I hope to make it work being the recoil is low on the 7mm08. Thanks for your teaching me about this Optilock problem on other threads. I would not buy these from scratch if the man had not ordered them in and gave them to me. I may have went with Talley unless I found some somewhere else that would have got my scope lower of good quality. Maybe Talley bases and some other well known brand for quality rings that are lower than the Talley?? I don't know what Sako had in mine for the "TALL" Optilocks? Mine (LOW) look like a 56mm would clear & most likely the heavy barrel & MED. ring should clear most any scope too...???
     
  10. sakofan

    sakofan Well-Known Member

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    I ran Talleys on my Sako too. I think they were mediums or lows, in 30mm. They worked pretty well.
    I had a IOR tactical in them, with a 42mm objective.

    I still have those rings. If your interested, shoot me a email and I'll send them to you to evaluate. I don't use them anymore.

    They will probably work with the Nikon Tactical, as it has a 44mm objective and 30mm tube. Right?..sakofan...
     
  11. fourinone

    fourinone Well-Known Member

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    Sakofan...Is your Talley system a base that converts from the Sako groove to the Weaver/Picatiny?? If so and if you find the time could you measure them for me? What I would need is first find out if your rings are low or med., measure from the bottom of the ring where the scope lays to the under side of the ring bottom "this is the flat place you see when ring is up-side down. The low 30mm are .300 Next with ring installed to the base, measure also from bottom of ring to the bottom of the flat under-side of the base for the total of the two. Thanks and if you don't have time..no hard feelings.