Rust Preventative Oil for Inside Bore

LDHunter

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 21, 2001
Messages
905
Location
NW Florida Piney Woods
I just gave up in frustration trying to figure out what oil I can use to coat the INSIDE of my rifle barrels after cleaning and before I put them in the safe or take them to the range or hunting. My research came up with a bunch of people touting what they use with no reason why or any kind of validation.

It's incredibly hot and humid here and I'm getting ready for a groundhog hunt in Virginia and shooting a couple of days a week to get ready so the exposure to hot and humid conditions early mornings when it's still slightly cool is extreme.

What oil can I use in my barrels to prevent rust but that won't lay down a harmful coat that will affect accuracy or leave a nasty film?

I don't want the standard "I use this" answers with no experience in long range shooting or hot and humid conditions... I want to hear from long range shooters that, like me, have to expose their rifles to hot and humid conditions yet expect long range accuracy.

I'm tempted to use Breakfree LP but really have no clue. I used Kroil for years and blindly trusted it until I recently found out it has absolutely NO rust preventative properties... <SIGH>
 
Regardless of what oil you use, you could also use the small dehumidifiers. I have three "Remington" ones in my safe. They have clear widow indicators on them that change color when it is time to recharge them. They have an electrical plug on the back, that you plug into the wall socket, and it recharges in about 12 hours. These protect everything in the safe and cost about $25 each. Got mine from Cabelas. One would protect a normal size safe, but I use three because I live here in the South where the humidity is very high. I have no problems with rust on the outside or in the bore of my firearms. Sorry, I don't do any long range shooting, so I can't relate to anything there but I do fit into the high humidity category. I just thought I would try to help.

My Remington dehumidifers go about three weeks before I have to recharge them.

As far as bore treatment, I use Bore Tech eliminator to clean the bore, and the directions say to leave a light film in the bore for protection. I don't but others might.
 
I live in the same conditions as you (Texas gulf coast) and have to take extra steps to maintain my rifle barrels.

When I was younger and duck hunted the salt marshes, I used Texaco rust proofing in and on my shotguns. It is very messy and has to be cleaned before every use.

For my rifles, I use rem oil (Or some other type of good gun oil) on the outside and in the bore immediately after cleaning. all of my firearms are stored in a fire proof safe with a Golden rod heater and a large packet of Silica Jell that I regularly monitor and bake in the oven if necessary (Most have a color indicator that lets you know when it needs to be changed or re-dried).

There is no magic formula of oil that will prevent rust indefinitely, so routine maintenance is required every 3 to 4 months (Clean and re oil).

I also carry a oily rag in a zip lock bag In my hunting bag to wipe the outside if necessary.

Of Corse. barrel bores have to be dry patched before every use, and even then some rifles will shoot the first shot slightly of the zero, So I shoot a fouling shot and dry patch the barrel just before a hunt where precision hits are required on the first shot (Long range).

People in dry climates are lucky and don't have to deal with this problem, But those that do have to take extra steps to keep our firearms in good shape. Our humidity is normally above 90 % and temperatures swing 50+degrees causing sweating on steel surfaces. So cleaning comes often and must be done if you don't want a visit by the rust god.

PS: Stainless barrels help the problem some, but only a little and routine cleaning is still required. here is the military spec. recommended =
http://www.g96.com/products/military-grade-products/military-approved-synthetic-clp-gun-oil/

Hope this helps

J E CUSTOM
 
Like J E Custom I also live on the Gulf Coast and use the rechargeable safe dehumidifiers but I always treat my blued and stainless guns with Rusteprufe. For long term storage I will swab the bore with it but short term usually gets Rem Oil or Otis Dry Lube aerosol on a patch. The downside of the Rusteprufe is it will attract dust like when I head out to our ranch south of San Antonio. My shotguns get wiped down with either Winchester wipes or Rem Oil when we dove hunt. It's usually so hot down there sweat will ruin a bluing job so before they are put up at the end of a hunt I use the wipes and then when I pull them back out just lightly wipe the oil off so you don't get so much dust. I did hunt with a Remington 20 gauge auto that was camo dipped and didn't worry too much about rust but now I have a CZ over and under that takes a little more care. Another thing is I don't use the Rustprufe to lubricate the internals like triggers and slides on pistols. I worry it might build up or be a bit sticky. It's primary use is for preventing rust in my opinion but their label indicates it is a lubricant. Some people claim WD 40 will gum up triggers and actions and I confess I have used it in a pinch, better than nothing when you dunk a gun in the drink. I worked in a machine shop that was two blocks from the bay and we sprayed all the machines down at quitting time with WD 40 after a quick clean up with a shop vacuum. You just had to be careful not to get any on the digital read out scales mounted under the ways and they were protected from coolant but WD 40 would find them somehow. Our CNC lathes and mills were just washed down with coolant and never seemed to rust but the two mills I ran and one lathe mostly were used without coolant. I had a mist can on the mills and ran some indexable mills dry, watch out for some hot chips! I use Birchwood Casey Rig #2 on my woodworking tools in my shop between jobs to keep the tables from rusting. When I use them I have to degrease and wax them though. It's made for firearms so it might be a good product if you can get it in your area. One of my old friends here used 3 In 1 oil on his guns exclusively, I guess he liked the way it smelled. Here's a link for Rudsteprufe.
Rusteprufe Nitro Solvent
 
JE Custom,

Thanks for the help and thanks to the poster before you. I'll get something to help with humidity in my safe but my safe has always been in the air conditioned part of my house.

I read once on Benchrest.com that you shouldn't use Rem Oil in a barrel because it has teflon in it and that you don't want teflon in a rifle barrel. They recommended Kroil and that's what I've used for years but I recently took the rifle to Whidden Gun Works to have it bedded and their gunsmith scoped my stainless barrel and said it had signs of rust present and past. I was surprised and started reading up on Kroil. They claim rust preventative properties...
Google Deal

Maybe I wasn't using it enough... <sigh>

That rifle was heavily used sometimes up to 5 days a week during our rainy several month long hunting season. I would usually clean the barrel down to bare metal as well as I could and then shoot two or three fouling shots and then hunt with it but today I left the oil in my barrels and shot my 3 most accurate rifles and the first group on all 3 rifles was so good (well under an inch) that I don't intend to shoot foulers any more before hunting unless I'm expecting 300 yard or further shots.

Anyway... Anyone else? Ideas? Is teflon bad in a barrel? Is Kroil a good choice?

By the way... I never bother to oil the outside of most of my rifles and they never rust. They're all either stainless or cerakoted and a few have Trinyte coating. The only rust I ever see is on the scope base and ring screw heads.

Bob
 
Wado,

You and I were both typing at the same time so I missed your post until now.

WD-40 has been my go to all around rust preventative for many many years and it's never failed me but it has very little lubricative value so I don't use it for guns much. Plus it smells too strong to use on hunting rifles. I used 3 in 1 oil for several years before that and liked it a lot too... LOL

In my opinion the ideal oil for the inside of a rifle barrel should have very good rust preventative properties but leave almost no detectable waxy residue or odor. The Teflon question is a tough one. I simply don't know what to think.

Bob
 
By the way... I think WD-40 get's an undeserved bad rap. It will dissolve other oils and waxes and I think that's what makes people think it will gunk up a gun because it turns some oils and waxes to a nasty paste. I've never seen any sign of it doing anything like that on my guns but I have always only used fine (thin) oils and never waxes or thick oils myself.

I wash out my bronze bore brushes with it and they last a long time before they finally actually wear out. The bore solvent is quickly washed away before it has a chance to eat up the bristles on a bore brush.
 
By the way... I think WD-40 get's an undeserved bad rap. It will dissolve other oils and waxes and I think that's what makes people think it will gunk up a gun because it turns some oils and waxes to a nasty paste. I've never seen any sign of it doing anything like that on my guns but I have always only used fine (thin) oils and never waxes or thick oils myself.

I wash out my bronze bore brushes with it and they last a long time before they finally actually wear out. The bore solvent is quickly washed away before it has a chance to eat up the bristles on a bore brush.

+1
I use WD 40 to soak and clean everything that I can and clean my bore brushes to prevent them from being destroyed by the bore solvent. and after blowing everything out good and wiping everything down, then I do the rust preventive procedure. I don't depend on it for/as a rust preventative. and I don't use it for triggers either.

WD 40 is a Water displacement product that has a rust preventive ability. I don't consider it long term but it does well at displacing water (Hence the name WD) the 40 stands for the fact that it took 40 attempts to arrive at a mixture that would displace water By the company that developed it.

It works very well on semi autos to clean them also.

On the Rem Oil having Teflon, I have found no downside to using it and feel that it helps the oil maintain the protective coating we want. As stated earlier, I always fire a fouling shot and dry patch so if there was any in the bore it will be removed by the shot.

J E CUSTOM
 
WD40 has a long term corrosion inhibiter. It is thick and slimy. I haven't ever used it on a rifle but I do use it on chromoly barrel blanks that are going to be stored for a while.
 
I have several stored rifles that I used either RemOil or WD40 on the bore many years ago that show absolutely no sign of rust. RemOil works nicely on the exterior metal/bluing. For my bench rest and LR rifle bores used on a regular basis, I have been using Montana Bore Conditioner after cleaning. No signs of rust with rifles that can sit several months. After a dry patch, it requires inly a shot or two to bring in my zero from a clean bore. Excellent priduct!
 
Short of Cosmoline or other type grease/Long term storage agent, there isn't a lot you can do, save for monthly checks and touch up oiling.

I have been using Ballistol, with the addition of either a passive or active dehumidifier in the gun locker, also during the humid months add additional passive dehumidifier agents to the lockers, they need to be removed or dumped once a month, but I consider it cheap protection and the wife can do it, if I am unable too, easier than her oiling/cleaning them every month.
 
I live in dry in land Alberta Canada, so I'm lucky.
But my rifles take a beating from fall to spring threw the whole winter from warm truck too frozen planet of snow,,, dry snow that is not like the East Coast of our America's.

I uses that Dog awful sticky gear oil with rust proof additive,,, its the worst product you'll ever work with and it stinks too high 4@!!

What's a person too do,,, allow the rusting or put up with the mess.

What's the advantages and disadvantages you asked in your thread.

Advantages:::
Gear oil with rust proof additive in pregnants the iron period.
It is the next step lower than factory iron hot tank oiling that our steels Mills use so they can store the steel out side.
It just simply works.
Come back too camp and pull out the oil towel from your sealed zip lock bag and whip it down.
Throw a hand full of patches in the bag too so you can push one down the barrel.
Next morning while your having coffee dry patch the bore and dry cloth the outer iron.

Disadvantages:::
It sinks too high heaven.
Gets every where.
Crappy too work with.
One 4@!! of a mess.
Lots of dry patches too get it out of rifling.
Time consuming.

All the above is totally true as those that do this know all too well.
At least it not as bad as gun grease.

I go half way into this depending on the conditions, and if I thing my barrel is in jeopardy, then I dam well get at it.

This is a small part of what is expected of us as firearms owners.
It never ends till we are totally done shooting in our life time.

Each person chooses what works for them, so my idea is just that.
I'm going too try a product from Eastern Canada this year.

It's a auto rust check spray that is clear, smells nice, is light and slippery, and prevents cars and trucks from rusting.
It repels calcium chloride, salt, and other acidy corrosive materials.
I do believe it's made of canola oil.

Alot easier too work with too.
It's almost like #3 or #4 sewing machine oil.

Don from Western Canada

I'll find the name of it and post what it is called.
 
I just gave up in frustration trying to figure out what oil I can use to coat the INSIDE of my rifle barrels after cleaning and before I put them in the safe or take them to the range or hunting. My research came up with a bunch of people touting what they use with no reason why or any kind of validation.

It's incredibly hot and humid here and I'm getting ready for a groundhog hunt in Virginia and shooting a couple of days a week to get ready so the exposure to hot and humid conditions early mornings when it's still slightly cool is extreme.

What oil can I use in my barrels to prevent rust but that won't lay down a harmful coat that will affect accuracy or leave a nasty film?

I don't want the standard "I use this" answers with no experience in long range shooting or hot and humid conditions... I want to hear from long range shooters that, like me, have to expose their rifles to hot and humid conditions yet expect long range accuracy.

I'm tempted to use Breakfree LP but really have no clue. I used Kroil for years and blindly trusted it until I recently found out it has absolutely NO rust preventative properties... <SIGH>

Hi LD Hunter,

You may like to Google a product called Eezox as it has a great reputation and a lot of very positive reviews. It is the only oil I use on my rifles now and I have found it to be excellent. Unlike most gun oils Eezox doesn't dry up or leave any nasty film. Here in New Zealand we can have 4 seasons in one day and a rifle needs a good amount of protection against the elements.

Kiwikid.
 
You might want to consider trying Smooth Kote (by Sentry Solutions), which entails cleaning your barrel down to bare metal (ALL copper and powder fouling out, then rubbing alcohol to remove any cleaning solvents), then applying liquid molybendum disulfate (via patches or felt plugs), then powder molybendum disulfate (via patches).
The M-D bonds to the barrel metal.
After application, cleaning the barrel entails using a stiff nylon brush and dry patches - no solvents, and no oils.
Periodic re-application as needed.
Accuracy has been excellent.
I do not proclaim to be an expert (on anything), but I have been using Smooth Kote on all my rifles for several years.
It is my understanding that applying the M-D to the barrel itself and not the bullets avoids the moly-ring phenomenon/problem that benchrest shooters encountered when applying M-D to their bullets.
It is my understanding that Smooth Kote is popular among troops stationed in dry and dusty regions (e.g., Afghanistan), because there is no oil to attract dust/grit.
I do not know how well Smooth Kote works in especially wet/humid conditions.
A perusal of various forums and/or websites regarding Smooth Kote will presumably offer some more informed opinions/experience than mine - especially for the wet/humid conditions you're dealing with. Good luck.
 
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