Ruger No. 1 Forearm click and movement

matador

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Feb 20, 2008
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45
Location
Winter Garden, Florida
I recently purchased A Ruger No. 1 standard (1B) in 300 Win Mag. Upon further inspection and handling I noticed a mild but discernable click and movement of the forearm. Has anybody experienced this? Do I need to have a gunsmith inspect the forearm? I bought the rifle on-line new and have not shot it yet. Your input would be appreciated.
 
Is the forearm screw tight? While you have the screwdriver in your hand you might as well check the action screws also being as they tend to loosen up as well.

Have you taken the forearm off yet? You might as well do that and try not to loose the little round gizmo being as that is really frustrating.
 
Is the forearm screw tight? While you have the screwdriver in your hand you might as well check the action screws also being as they tend to loosen up as well.

Have you taken the forearm off yet? You might as well do that and try not to loose the little round gizmo being as that is really frustrating.

Buffalobob, I took the forearm off. Tha forearm screw appeared tight but I had no problems with disassembly. I am no gunsmith but everything seemed intact. I replaced the forearm with firm tightening of the screw. The click and movement are much diminished. I can't help to think that there will be some inherent movement of the forearm as the nature of its attachmnet of the extended hanger. The extended hanger would seem to have a propensity to have a "lever action" especially when the distal end of the forearm is moved. Compared to photos of other Ruger No. 1's extended hangers mine was more seperated from the barrel. At least it appeared that way. What are your thoughts?
 
The extended hanger would seem to have a propensity to have a "lever action" especially when the distal end of the forearm is moved.

You got that right. Most Ruger #1s will not like to shoot off a bipod. They will not like to shoot well off a hard rest. The cantilever rod acts like a launching spring and the rifle barrel will go flying up in the air before the bullet clears. You want to rest the forend on something that absorbs recoil but doesnot reflect it back.

The foreend screw can be used to "tune" the barrel. There are various techniques for building pressure points in the foreend or trying to float the foreend. There is a device known as a Hicks Accuraizer that can be installed with a little woodworking. I have one laying in a drawer but building a pressure point at the end of the foreend works well for me so the Hicks just lays in the drawer unused.

They are enjoyable rifles and are fun to shoot and fun to hunt with. They can be as accurate as any factory rifle around or they can be really a dog. They will have a good bit of "freebore" so you will have trouble reaching the lands with light bullets. Don't let the barrel get hot or it will start walking around pretty bad.
 
Most Ruger #1s will not like to shoot off a bipod. They will not like to shoot well off a hard rest. The cantilever rod acts like a launching spring and the rifle barrel will go flying up in the air before the bullet clears. You want to rest the forend on something that absorbs recoil but doesnot reflect it back.

Buffalobob, thank you for taking time to advice me on the Ruger #1 and giving me a fresh perspective on the rifle. I believe it is time to go to the range - as soon as my scope arrives. Again, thank you sir.
 
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