Forums
New posts
Search forums
What's new
Articles
Latest reviews
Author list
Classifieds
Log in
Register
What's new
Search
Search
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
By:
New posts
Search forums
Menu
Log in
Register
Install the app
Install
Forums
Hunting
Long Range Hunting & Shooting
Ruger accuracy
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Reply to thread
Message
<blockquote data-quote="MontanaRifleman" data-source="post: 833771" data-attributes="member: 11717"><p>Probably the biggest problem with the front action screw is most M77 owners don't know how to torque them down properly which is not the actions "fault" necessarily but then again it is not as straight forward as torquing down other actions.</p><p></p><p>If you check out post #9 in this thread, you'll see the smith ground off the lug and drilled and tapped a new hole for the front screw and replaced the recoil lug with a beefier lug between the barrel and receiver much like the Rem design. </p><p></p><p><a href="http://www.longrangehunting.com/forums/f37/ruger-m77-action-build-33427/index2.html" target="_blank">http://www.longrangehunting.com/forums/f37/ruger-m77-action-build-33427/index2.html</a></p><p></p><p> An integral lug is much more desirable but in the case of the M77 the lug is not very substantial and it is milled out in the center for the action screw, further diminishing lug contact with the bed. Proper contact between recoil lug and stock bed is critical for reliable and repeatable precision shooting as I'm sure you know based on your post and the steps you took in epoxying in the steel piece into your bed. The angled configuration also makes it more challenging to do a proper bedding job. One also needs to take a little extra care that the screw is not in contact with the stock or pillar when torqued down which is another source of problems.</p><p></p><p>If the angled front action screw was not a negative issue, why would the smith grind off the lug, drill and tap a new hole and replace the lug with a Rem style one that is not integral? My smith, who I previously mentioned as liking M77's, also drills and taps for a new action screw that is not angled. This is a fairly common practice.</p><p></p><p>Another thing I'm not thrilled about is the 2 piece bottom metal/trigger guard along with middle screw. The one piece bottom metal trigger guard design with 2 screws is much better leading to less complication. The middle screw is also a source of issues if not torqued correctly. A lot of guys learn this the hard way with many rounds of wasted ammo down range. I broke my original trigger guard because I torqued it too hard and the replacement cost me $80.</p><p></p><p>I'm not trying to slam M77's. I am just telling it how I objectively see it and what I've learned after a lot of research.</p><p></p><p>The OP asked this....</p><p></p><p>Like I said before, you can make anything shoot well if you put enough time and $$$ into it. IMO, the OP would do better to trade or sell his Ruger for something like a Howa/Vanguard or M70 which are very straight forward actions with desirable features that are important in a good action to build a precision rifle with. They need little to no messing around with other than a straight forward. </p><p></p><p>I have just had 2 rifles done on the Howa style actions and I am very pleased with them. The basic blueprint cost $325 ea. Nothing else was needed other than there was a $30 charge to remove the barrel because Howa puts their barrels in quite tight.. No special jigs, no tapping the receiver for rails, no changing the recoil lug and screw confguration. I even kept the original trigger on one because I was to tune it to a very crisp 1.5 lbs. The other I bought used with a Timney on it and i can't tell the difference. I did have large tactical knobs welded to the bolt handle which was not necessary but something I opted for.</p><p></p><p>If I do give my M77 a facelift, it won't be a practical decision, it will be a sentimental decision.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="MontanaRifleman, post: 833771, member: 11717"] Probably the biggest problem with the front action screw is most M77 owners don't know how to torque them down properly which is not the actions "fault" necessarily but then again it is not as straight forward as torquing down other actions. If you check out post #9 in this thread, you'll see the smith ground off the lug and drilled and tapped a new hole for the front screw and replaced the recoil lug with a beefier lug between the barrel and receiver much like the Rem design. [URL]http://www.longrangehunting.com/forums/f37/ruger-m77-action-build-33427/index2.html[/URL] An integral lug is much more desirable but in the case of the M77 the lug is not very substantial and it is milled out in the center for the action screw, further diminishing lug contact with the bed. Proper contact between recoil lug and stock bed is critical for reliable and repeatable precision shooting as I'm sure you know based on your post and the steps you took in epoxying in the steel piece into your bed. The angled configuration also makes it more challenging to do a proper bedding job. One also needs to take a little extra care that the screw is not in contact with the stock or pillar when torqued down which is another source of problems. If the angled front action screw was not a negative issue, why would the smith grind off the lug, drill and tap a new hole and replace the lug with a Rem style one that is not integral? My smith, who I previously mentioned as liking M77's, also drills and taps for a new action screw that is not angled. This is a fairly common practice. Another thing I'm not thrilled about is the 2 piece bottom metal/trigger guard along with middle screw. The one piece bottom metal trigger guard design with 2 screws is much better leading to less complication. The middle screw is also a source of issues if not torqued correctly. A lot of guys learn this the hard way with many rounds of wasted ammo down range. I broke my original trigger guard because I torqued it too hard and the replacement cost me $80. I'm not trying to slam M77's. I am just telling it how I objectively see it and what I've learned after a lot of research. The OP asked this.... Like I said before, you can make anything shoot well if you put enough time and $$$ into it. IMO, the OP would do better to trade or sell his Ruger for something like a Howa/Vanguard or M70 which are very straight forward actions with desirable features that are important in a good action to build a precision rifle with. They need little to no messing around with other than a straight forward. I have just had 2 rifles done on the Howa style actions and I am very pleased with them. The basic blueprint cost $325 ea. Nothing else was needed other than there was a $30 charge to remove the barrel because Howa puts their barrels in quite tight.. No special jigs, no tapping the receiver for rails, no changing the recoil lug and screw confguration. I even kept the original trigger on one because I was to tune it to a very crisp 1.5 lbs. The other I bought used with a Timney on it and i can't tell the difference. I did have large tactical knobs welded to the bolt handle which was not necessary but something I opted for. If I do give my M77 a facelift, it won't be a practical decision, it will be a sentimental decision. [/QUOTE]
Insert quotes…
Verification
Post reply
Forums
Hunting
Long Range Hunting & Shooting
Ruger accuracy
Top