Rings and bases for $100

[bruce_ventura]

Here's a tip for the OP. I've seen that tactical rings priced above about $75/pair usually have all surfaces machined, including the inner ring surfaces.

Tactical rings that are priced below about $75/pair are usually cut from extruded bar stock. The ring surfaces that grip the scope tube usually have extrusion marks and are not precisely cylindrical. Otherwise, they have good strength. Burris tactical rings are an example of extruded rings.

Lapping these extruded rings will make them cylindrical and will make the rings coaxial (properly aligned). If you have access to a lapping bar you can save a few bucks by buying extruded rings instead of the more expensive and precise machined ones, and then lapping them.

 

[FEENIX]

I think I'll get the egw hd picatinny rail but still don't know what rings I want. I don't care for the looks of any of the egw rings. I like the way the nightforce rings look but they r way out of my price range. Anyone have any suggestions?

Most problem I've heard with the EGW rail is associated with the weak screws when over torque, get stronger screws for them.

Consider the Burris Signature Zee rings with inserts (Burris Signature Zee Rings – 1" : Cabela's).



Good luck!

 

[Sully2]

Most problem I've heard with the EGW rail is associated with the weak screws when over torque, get stronger screws for them.

Good luck!

You have HEARD...but never experienced.... People raunching down on those little screws and never really torqueing them is what causes it...and besides you can buy for a small additional $$ socket head cap screws from them. Those PLUS a good torque wrench stops all that torn up screw heads problems ( If any)

 

[FEENIX]

You have HEARD...but never experienced.... People raunching down on those little screws and never really torqueing them is what causes it...and besides you can buy for a small additional $$ socket head cap screws from them. Those PLUS a good torque wrench stops all that torn up screw heads problems ( If any)

"Yes, I have heard but never experienced it" is correct ... I have a couple and used the screws that came with it without any problem.

 

[Welderboy250]

Thanks for all the input. I like socket head screws so I may buy some for use in my new rail when it arrives in 4-6 weeks. The jerks where I bought it from led me to believe it was in stock on their website so I ordered it from them rather than someone else who had it listed out of stock. Of course I didn't find out about the wait time until a couple days later in an order update email. Makes me want to cancel the order and buy it from someone who was more honest in the first place. Thanks a lot tacticalstore.com NOT! I also ordered some vortex 30mm tactical rings. I wanted something that looked a little more sleek but since I couldn't find anything I liked at a reasonable price I opted for cheap. Maby I can work them over a little, the only problem is refinishing them. So if u have any suggestions in that department I am all ears. Thanks, Jimmy

 

[Welderboy250]

The good news is I got the stuff already. The unfortunate part is the $65 rail seems to be of lower quality than the $32 set of rings. At first glance it all looks great but the section that sits on the rear of the receiver is too tall. When the front screws are tightened it pulls it down and bows the rail which of course will throw the rings out of alignment. Guess ill have to do some work to the rail unless EGW wants a repeat customer and makes it right. I like the looks of the thing but it is too tall so I don't know what to do.

 

[Boman]

Egw's customer service is terrible. I won't be purchasing anything from them again. Good luck

 

[bruce_ventura]

... Guess ill have to do some work to the rail unless EGW wants a repeat customer and makes it right. I like the looks of the thing but it is too tall so I don't know what to do.

Receiver dimensions can vary on production rifles. Bedding the base is easy to do and will make the rail fit perfectly.

 

[Welderboy250]

I hear u on bedding the rail but is already taller than I expected so I'm not gonna bed the front higher. I guess maby ill take some off the rear section and then bed it that way. There needs to be a jig that clamps on the rail like a scope ring except it needs to go the full length so it can hold the rail from flexing up or down at one end while it is being bedded.

 

[rickdavis81]

I like egw 1 piece bases and burris xtreme tactical rings. Should be right at $100

 

[MudRunner2005]

This is the first I'm hearing of issues with the EGW rails....All 4 of mine have fit perfectly.

Are yall tightening them from the 2 inside screws to the outside screws? I do that with mine, and have zero issues with rings not being aligned...

 

[bruce_ventura]

I hear u on bedding the rail but is already taller than I expected so I'm not gonna bed the front higher. I guess maby ill take some off the rear section and then bed it that way. There needs to be a jig that clamps on the rail like a scope ring except it needs to go the full length so it can hold the rail from flexing up or down at one end while it is being bedded.

Unless the fit is really bad, we're only talking about gaps under the rail of ~10 or maybe 20 mils - not enough to make a significant height difference. If you remove material from the rear you are tilting the back of the rail down, which decreases elevation adjustment range. I would not remove any material from the base.

There is no need to hold the base rigid while the epoxy sets. The process I use works very well - even for poorly fitting bases. I prep the receiver in the normal way. I mask around the base area to prevent an epoxy mess. Then I apply clear wax to the receiver and silicone spray to the screw holes.

I scuff up the bottom of the base using emery cloth and then clean it with lacquer thinner. I apply JB Weld sparingly to the base mounting surfaces. Less is better. I leave a gap around the holes. I figure I can always repeat the process if there are large voids (rarely happens).

I position the base on the receiver, apply silicone to the screws and insert them. At this point I usually check alignment of the base to the barrel using an 18" steel ruler.

Here is the important part. The purpose of bedding is to maximize surface contact and minimize stress in the base. I gently tighten the base screws just enough to squeeze epoxy out of the gap and get the high points on the base to contact the receiver. "Gently" means less than 3 in-lbs of torque.

I go back and forth between screws, gently tightening each screw until I'm convinced the base is contacting the receiver somewhere on the front and back. Then I back off each screw 1/8 -1/4 turn to insure there is no stress in the base. This is critical. Some folks tighten the base screws at this point, which imparts stress and usually bends the base. Keeping the screws a bit loose during epoxy set allows the epoxy the fill the gaps while the base has no stress. Then I clean up excess epoxy using Q-tips.

I let the epoxy set overnight, pry it loose the next day, clean up the receiver, and remove excess epoxy from the corners of the base using a razor blade. Then I install the base, apply blue thread locker to the screws and torque the screws properly (20 in-lbs for #6 screws).

The bedding process takes about an hour. Works great every time.

 

[SidecarFlip]

You have HEARD...but never experienced.... People raunching down on those little screws and never really torqueing them is what causes it...and besides you can buy for a small additional $$ socket head cap screws from them. Those PLUS a good torque wrench stops all that torn up screw heads problems ( If any)

+1 Yep. 25 inch pounds plus a touch of blue threadlocker on each screw tip and, if you are astute (and careful) under the rail mount between the receiver top and the rail or ring bottom.

I think most people use 'Kentucky Torquage' on optics mounting fasteners instead of a proper torque indicating tool.

I wonder how many people actually progressively cross tighten multiple fasteners. Not many I suspect and surely not the buffon at the outdoors box store that mounts your scope while you wait....... (no names mentioned)....

I envison some ham fisted clown cranking down on the tiny screws with a 1/2" ratchet and torx bit, cranking them to China.......

 

[MudRunner2005]

+1 Yep. 25 inch pounds plus a touch of blue threadlocker on each screw tip and, if you are astute (and careful) under the rail mount between the receiver top and the rail or ring bottom.

I think most people use 'Kentucky Torquage' on optics mounting fasteners instead of a proper torque indicating tool.

I wonder how many people actually progressively cross tighten multiple fasteners. Not many I suspect and surely not the buffon at the outdoors box store that mounts your scope while you wait....... (no names mentioned)....

I envison some ham fisted clown cranking down on the tiny screws with a 1/2" ratchet and torx bit, cranking them to China.......

I have used "Kentucky Torquage" all my life. I have made mistakes, but 99.9% of the time, everything is good to go.

Recently purchased a Wheeler FAT Wrench, and have since been using it. Working great so far.

For $50.00...I highly recommend it.