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Long Range Hunting & Shooting
Rifle Cleaning — Procedure and Products?
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<blockquote data-quote="redneckbmxer24" data-source="post: 3053628" data-attributes="member: 11459"><p>In addition to what you have get a good bore guide and use the boretech proof positive jags so you don't get false positives from it eating brass jags. Also get one of their nylon brushes.</p><p></p><p>With eliminator just send a couple wet patches through and let it sit for about 15 minutes and following it with another wet patch and then dry patch until clean. If it's heavily fouled hit it with 10-20 brush strokes after the initial soaking. Once the patches are coming out clean I hit the chamber with a bore mop with some denatured alcohol on it to clean it and neutralize any cleaner that might have gotten back in there and then run a couple patches soaked in alcohol down the bore. </p><p></p><p>You don't want to leave boretech or most hasher cleaners in the bore which is why you neutralize it, harsh cleaners have ruined many people's barrels despite them saying they're safe to leave in. Neutralizing the cleaner also usually results in no clean bore flier from my experience. </p><p></p><p>If you're going to store it longer term push a patch of light oil, hoppes, or kroil down it to inhibit rust. Run a wet patch of alcohol back through it before firing to remove the residue. If you use hoppes or kroil run another lightly wet patch of it down before the alcohol to remove any fouling it's lifted since it will continue to clean while it sits.</p><p></p><p>I also use a tight fitting bore mop (12ga usually works) to clean out the action, wipe the bolt down, and put a little grease on the back of the bolt lugs and also a very light coating of oil on the bolt body every cleaning and douche the trigger out top to bottom with zippo lighter fluid and then blow it out with compressed air. Every few hundred rounds I also pull the firing ping assembly out, hose it and the inside or the bolt body down with brake cleaner, blow with compressed air, and relubricate.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="redneckbmxer24, post: 3053628, member: 11459"] In addition to what you have get a good bore guide and use the boretech proof positive jags so you don’t get false positives from it eating brass jags. Also get one of their nylon brushes. With eliminator just send a couple wet patches through and let it sit for about 15 minutes and following it with another wet patch and then dry patch until clean. If it’s heavily fouled hit it with 10-20 brush strokes after the initial soaking. Once the patches are coming out clean I hit the chamber with a bore mop with some denatured alcohol on it to clean it and neutralize any cleaner that might have gotten back in there and then run a couple patches soaked in alcohol down the bore. You don’t want to leave boretech or most hasher cleaners in the bore which is why you neutralize it, harsh cleaners have ruined many people’s barrels despite them saying they’re safe to leave in. Neutralizing the cleaner also usually results in no clean bore flier from my experience. If you’re going to store it longer term push a patch of light oil, hoppes, or kroil down it to inhibit rust. Run a wet patch of alcohol back through it before firing to remove the residue. If you use hoppes or kroil run another lightly wet patch of it down before the alcohol to remove any fouling it’s lifted since it will continue to clean while it sits. I also use a tight fitting bore mop (12ga usually works) to clean out the action, wipe the bolt down, and put a little grease on the back of the bolt lugs and also a very light coating of oil on the bolt body every cleaning and douche the trigger out top to bottom with zippo lighter fluid and then blow it out with compressed air. Every few hundred rounds I also pull the firing ping assembly out, hose it and the inside or the bolt body down with brake cleaner, blow with compressed air, and relubricate. [/QUOTE]
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