Remington 700 Mountain Rifle

Discussion in 'Gunsmithing' started by baldhunter, Jan 8, 2009.

  1. baldhunter

    baldhunter Well-Known Member

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    I just picked up a Remington 700 Mountain Rifle in a 270.The rifle has a wood stock and the barrel channel is factory grooved to maintain support nearly all the way to the end of the stock.My question is,should I leave it like that or free float it?The barrel is purty lightweight.
     
  2. Kevin Cram

    Kevin Cram <b>SPONSOR</b>

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    I would try it the way it is first so you have a comparison. A full action stress free bed and 100% free float is more than likely going to shoot better though.
     

  3. Jim Oliver

    Jim Oliver Well-Known Member

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    The light whippy barrels many times shoot better with a bit of upward pressure about 1 inch back from the forearm tip. What has worked for me is to attach a fish scale to the front stud and adjust the forearm pressure to require 6 to 8 pounds of pull to allow a piece of thin paper to be released from between the bbl. and the pressure point.

    Cheers,
    Jim
     
  4. ilscungilli

    ilscungilli Well-Known Member

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    I have an LSS from a few years ago that has a pretty light barrel on it. It had the front pad on the stock that put upward pressure on the barrel. I had the action pillar bedded, and free floated the barrel. It shoots about the same as far as overall accuracy. However, since the pad is gone, when I take the gun apart and then reassemble it, I don't have to rezero. With a barrel pad I found that small, but significant changes in the zero would occur, probably due to variable torque on the action screws. The other big change was the accuracy with a bipod. When I had the barrel pad on the stock, accuracy from a bipod was not good. It wasn't until I free floated the barrel that I was able to get good groups with a bipod, using essentially the same technique.

    My advise, free float the barrel and bed the action. You can always add back in the pad with some bedding compound later on if needed.
     
  5. baldhunter

    baldhunter Well-Known Member

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    Update.Well I decided to free float the barrel and bed the action.I topped her with a Bushnell Elite 3200 3x9x50,loaded up some 130gr Hornaday SP Interlocks with 55grs. of IMR-4350,she shot great with groups of 3/4" or less at a 100yds.Not too bad for a lightweight barrel and first time out.
     
  6. Kevin Cram

    Kevin Cram <b>SPONSOR</b>

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    Good deal. Glad everything worked out and your happy.
     
  7. cva54

    cva54 Well-Known Member

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    hi all jumping in here looks like the right place. Got a 721/700 (kevin you might remember this one that pic I sent you the 2by4 cheek peace on it) well I did it to day droped it off at the gun smith! A good one up here in my neck of the woods. Having it recrowned,lugs laped,headspace adjusted and put safty back to the way it was bolt locked down when safty is on. I think I covered every thing or did I miss somthing? By the way I have all ready triger job, floated, bedded all the way up to sight ring on barrle. For all the advice above I my self dont like the idea of pressuse. Yes it will controll the barrle. But the more I thought about it it makes more sence. harmonic vibration in the barrle. So why not parshally bed barrle?
     
  8. johnnyk

    johnnyk Well-Known Member

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    baldhunter,
    I'm right in the middle of doing the same thing. My son and I swapped rifles on his visit during the Christmas holidays. I got his .260 Mtn Rifle and he got my .25-06 Sendero SF. I have always wanted to take the pressure point out and see if I could get better accuracy from it, so once we did the swap I went for it.
    I was a little disappointed to start with as I missed the whole target (8.5"X11" paper) and target backstop (4'X5') on the first two shots! I didn't realize it would throw it that far off! Anyway, got it back on paper and accuracy is about the same as with the pressure point. So now I'm looking at bedding the action. Kinda anxious about this step as I've never bedded a rifle before.
    [​IMG]
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    (That's a cow in the last picture. I had to wait for her to go through the gate. No animals were hurt in the making of these photo's).....JohnnyK.
     
  9. cva54

    cva54 Well-Known Member

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    I cant wait to get mine back. And see how well it does it was at a 1 3/4" at a 100Y in the woods shooting off hand ran out of time deer opner was 2 week away. Hoping it gets down to at least 3/4". Witch brings brings me to the stock! Staying with wood you can have a adjustable conb installed cant you? When I was in my 20 I busted my right coller bone. Why couldnt it have ben the left. I had to relearn to shoot a tall cheek rest off sets my droped sholder my wing shooting sucks now! (ps) I think to mutch and this rifle was biult in 1951
     
    Last edited: Jan 24, 2009
  10. NesikaChad

    NesikaChad Well-Known Member

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    [​IMG]

    That's a neat photo. Well done!
     
  11. cva54

    cva54 Well-Known Member

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    johnnyk that is a realy nice looking rifle. The stock that is what Iam looking for. Can any one tell me can you cut out and install a adjustable comb on that stock
     
  12. NesikaChad

    NesikaChad Well-Known Member

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    I can do it. I also have hardware that I make that goes real well with it. Quick detach that allows you to retain your height setting when pulling the bolt.

    Samples of finished work:

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    PM me if interested so I don't derail this thing.

    Chad
     
  13. Hoghunter

    Hoghunter Member

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    I have the Remington 700 Mountain Rifle in 280. The I bought it from never did better then a 3 inch group at 100 yards . Reason he sold it. Barrel wasn't free floating so had it glass beded. trigger pull was 11 pounds. Had new trigger and safety put in. New trigger is set at 3.5 pounds really a big difference Now at 100 yards I topped it off with Leupold VX3 3.5x40x40. Shooting Federal 140 grain TST I can with using a shooting rest put bullet into bullet at 100 yards. So 3oo bucks later it's a right good shooting rifle then that not counting price of the Leupold