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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
reloading question
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<blockquote data-quote="jb1000br" data-source="post: 87946" data-attributes="member: 1459"><p>[ QUOTE ]</p><p></p><p> However, occasionally (usually with my luck) I find FL dies that are too long right out of the box and won't even touch the shoulder with the die all the way down to the shell holder! So, a guy might think he is full length sizing when in fact he is just barely touching the neck only! I think this is what is happening to the guy who started this thread.</p><p></p><p>For this problem, a comp shellholder work but not as well in my opinion. A better route (and cheaper too) is to send them to a machinist and have the die cut down shorter by .005" or whatever is needed to make it FL size again. I then use the headspace gauges from Stoney Point to see where I'm at with the length. A machinist can fix the die forever for about $15 bucks or less compared to the cost of getting several comp shellholders (up to $30 or more).</p><p></p><p></p><p>One other thing that I would like to mention is that I set up my dies fresh each time I use them. The reason for this is that sometimes when you set lock rings, the set screw can push against the ring and die body and cause a slight misalignment so that the next time you screw the die down onto the lock ring, it will be slightly off center. This is why I never set the lock ring. I just set it up fresh every time by threading down onto the shell holder and I cut my dies (if need be) so that this can be done. The ammo will usually run less than .001" out on concentricity in this manner.</p><p></p><p>Now, if a FL die is too short out of the box, then you must use either shims or comp shellholders to take up the slack. I personally would rather have a too long die than a too short die because I can custom fit the die if it is too long.</p><p></p><p>Just my two cents. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif </p><p></p><p>[/ QUOTE ]</p><p></p><p>GG -- You are backwards on the comp shellholder/shim usage</p><p></p><p>They will only serve to move the case OUT of the die, not INTO.</p><p></p><p>The thickest comp SH is cut 2 thou THINNER than a normal shellholder.</p><p></p><p>So if the die IS NOT BUMPING the shoulder, the comp shellholders WILL NOT HELP as they move the case in the wrong direction.</p><p></p><p>If the die IS BUMPING TOO MUCH, then shims and/or comp SH's will fix the problem and still allow you to cam the SH off the die.</p><p></p><p>The SH labeled "+0.002"" = it is increasing the headspace dim of the case over a standard shellholder....and DECREASING the case:chamber headspace (clear as mud?)</p><p></p><p>RE: resetting the die each time -- i keep mine tight, but may step up or down one shellholder between setups, thou recently i have been lucky and have been able to stay with the same shellholder each time i setup.</p><p></p><p>JB</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="jb1000br, post: 87946, member: 1459"] [ QUOTE ] However, occasionally (usually with my luck) I find FL dies that are too long right out of the box and won't even touch the shoulder with the die all the way down to the shell holder! So, a guy might think he is full length sizing when in fact he is just barely touching the neck only! I think this is what is happening to the guy who started this thread. For this problem, a comp shellholder work but not as well in my opinion. A better route (and cheaper too) is to send them to a machinist and have the die cut down shorter by .005" or whatever is needed to make it FL size again. I then use the headspace gauges from Stoney Point to see where I'm at with the length. A machinist can fix the die forever for about $15 bucks or less compared to the cost of getting several comp shellholders (up to $30 or more). One other thing that I would like to mention is that I set up my dies fresh each time I use them. The reason for this is that sometimes when you set lock rings, the set screw can push against the ring and die body and cause a slight misalignment so that the next time you screw the die down onto the lock ring, it will be slightly off center. This is why I never set the lock ring. I just set it up fresh every time by threading down onto the shell holder and I cut my dies (if need be) so that this can be done. The ammo will usually run less than .001" out on concentricity in this manner. Now, if a FL die is too short out of the box, then you must use either shims or comp shellholders to take up the slack. I personally would rather have a too long die than a too short die because I can custom fit the die if it is too long. Just my two cents. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif[/img] [/ QUOTE ] GG -- You are backwards on the comp shellholder/shim usage They will only serve to move the case OUT of the die, not INTO. The thickest comp SH is cut 2 thou THINNER than a normal shellholder. So if the die IS NOT BUMPING the shoulder, the comp shellholders WILL NOT HELP as they move the case in the wrong direction. If the die IS BUMPING TOO MUCH, then shims and/or comp SH's will fix the problem and still allow you to cam the SH off the die. The SH labeled "+0.002"" = it is increasing the headspace dim of the case over a standard shellholder....and DECREASING the case:chamber headspace (clear as mud?) RE: resetting the die each time -- i keep mine tight, but may step up or down one shellholder between setups, thou recently i have been lucky and have been able to stay with the same shellholder each time i setup. JB [/QUOTE]
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