Reloading novice

Discussion in 'Reloading' started by teampete, Jun 3, 2011.

  1. teampete

    teampete Well-Known Member

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    Hey all. Thanks for all the help from everyone. It is much appreciated. I just need some help with handloading. I have all my tools set up and have learned how to use all my tools like scale, powder thrower, primer seater, etc. Questions I have are
    1. When running a case through FL size die is it ready for a bullet. Basically will that case now fit into any gun in 300 win mag (using 300 win mag die)? Also whats FL sizing as I have heard others talk about different sizing dies and pros and cons.

    2. I have the RCBS hand priming tool. How do I know if the primer is seated perfectly and correctly?

    3. MY steps are to size the brass in the die, trim to length, clean primer pocket, seat primer, load powder, and then seat the bullet. Are these steps correct or am I missing anything? Please give me any hints or tips to help.

    Thanks,
    Dennis
     
  2. SBruce

    SBruce Well-Known Member

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    Generally, the case will fit any SAAMI spec chamber once it's been FL sized. Especially if you followed the instructions on setting up the die. The preferred method IMO is to set up the die for your particular rifle, thereby only sizing down just enough to easily chamber in your gun. In my experience, that's often alot shallower than the instructions say. Example, instructions may say "turn die down till it touches the shellholder at full extension, then turn it down another revolution and tighten lock ring". Most rifles I've owned didn't need the extra revolution for easy chambering. Idea is to size down the case just enough, not too much. Unless, you want to shoot the same loads in more than one rifle. I prefer to use a separate die set for each rifle, and set/label that die set accordingly.

    The idea with hand priming tools is to go by feel, you want to feel the primer bottom in the pocket and go just a tad more. Some pockets are deeper than others, some webs are tighter than others, so unless you've uniformed the pockets in all the cases; going by feel can sometimes be kinda tough with certain brass. Main thing is that they are all seated below flush with the case head. Ultimately, you want them all consistantly at the same depth below the head and the same pressure applied to each primer. Set them firm, but don't crush the anvil. You can use the tail end of your dial calipers to give you an approximate depth. I usually look for at least .003" below the case head. Most will end up being more like .005".

    Trimming doesn't necessarily need to be done every time. But if you do trim, add chamfer and debur to the process. Also, remove any lube from the cases before seating primers and charging with powder.

    Good luck, hope this helped.
     

  3. rscott5028

    rscott5028 Well-Known Member

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    +1 for SBruce's comment

    I would also say that "feel" works better than it sounds with the hand priming tool and I don't bother to use my calipers. I just visually inspect and run my thumb across the case head to make sure the primer is seated at or below flush.

    I quit using the hand primer when I upgraded to a Forster coax press because the primer seater gives a little more control. But, the difference in primer seating is not noticeable in my group sizes.

    Don't forget to inside/outside chamfer your neck after trimming. And, I like to debur the flash holes on new brass.

    -- richard
     
  4. SBruce

    SBruce Well-Known Member

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    Ditto, I forgot to mention that.

    Also, as you get more comfortable with reloading and start looking for the ultimate in precision; you'll probably want to start sorting cases by weight or volume, and possibly sorting cases by neck thickness/variance too. Depends on the rifle you're shooting and how tight you want groups to be.
     
  5. trebark

    trebark Well-Known Member

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  6. bruce_ventura

    bruce_ventura Well-Known Member

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    I recommend you make a practice of inspecting your brass before resizing. Also clean the inside of the case mouth using a bore brush before applying lube. That will keep you die cleaner.
     
  7. teampete

    teampete Well-Known Member

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    Re: Reloading novice (flash hole)

    Thank you for all the help guys. Should I get a flash hole uniformer or just a flash hole cleaner?? I see that lyman makes both. Or should I go with the RCBS model. I am afraid uniforming can be a little inconsistant because the brass is not all the same exact size. Also I worry that it will take some strength away from the case?
     
  8. trebark

    trebark Well-Known Member

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  9. SBruce

    SBruce Well-Known Member

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    Re: Reloading novice (flash hole)

    I am not familiar with the flash hole cleaner, but the deburr tool just removes any burr that might be on the inside of the case, thereby possibly disrupting the primer blast and causing inconsistant ignition.

    We only want to take the burr off, not anything extra.

    I clean primer pockets every fireing, but only deburr the flash holes once.
     
  10. rscott5028

    rscott5028 Well-Known Member

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