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Reloading - Looking After The Brass Cartridge Case By Matthew Cameron
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<blockquote data-quote="drhntr" data-source="post: 247059" data-attributes="member: 3119"><p>Capt D.</p><p> The way I calculate how far off the 'lands' that I am is, I start with making myself a 'Dummy' round (Unprimed or resized fired case with spent primer still seated). </p><p></p><p>1) Make sure the case ia trimmed to length.</p><p></p><p>a) Resize the case.</p><p>b) Partially seat a new bullet in the case and try to chamber the round. You shouldn't be able chamber it at this time! The 'lands' should be stopping you from closing the bolt, don't force it.</p><p>c) Seat the bullet farther into the case and try again. I typically go about 1-turn of the seating screw at this point.</p><p>d) When I get close enough to where I'm at the point that the bolt will just want to break over, take yourself a 'black' magic marker and color the bullet.</p><p>e) Now go about 1/2 turn on the screw and rechamber. When you take it out you should see marks left by the riflings.</p><p>f) Continue this process until you don't see any rifling marks ( You have to re-color the bullet with each chambering attempt).</p><p>h) When I really close, I use 1/4 turns on the seating depth screw. When I don't see any marks, I seat the bullet to start at least 0.025" off the lands.</p><p></p><p>Now load about 5 rounds at 0.010" increments 'off' the lands a check your groups. Make sure you are off the 'lands' during this process. A bullet seated while still contacting the 'lands' will introduce a 'pressure' spike'. Some small caliber (22LR) rifles are done this way, but for calibers exibiting high pressures, I don't recommend it unless you back off of the powder charge.</p><p></p><p></p><p>For reading I have found a book titled "The Ultimate In Rifle Accuracy". I'm still reading it. The Author is Glenn Newick, ISBN0-88317-159-7. It covers just about everything you need from building your own rifle, bench techniques, readingwind and case preperatiom.</p><p></p><p>Maybe this helps?</p><p></p><p></p><p>Good shooting</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="drhntr, post: 247059, member: 3119"] Capt D. The way I calculate how far off the 'lands' that I am is, I start with making myself a 'Dummy' round (Unprimed or resized fired case with spent primer still seated). 1) Make sure the case ia trimmed to length. a) Resize the case. b) Partially seat a new bullet in the case and try to chamber the round. You shouldn't be able chamber it at this time! The 'lands' should be stopping you from closing the bolt, don't force it. c) Seat the bullet farther into the case and try again. I typically go about 1-turn of the seating screw at this point. d) When I get close enough to where I'm at the point that the bolt will just want to break over, take yourself a 'black' magic marker and color the bullet. e) Now go about 1/2 turn on the screw and rechamber. When you take it out you should see marks left by the riflings. f) Continue this process until you don't see any rifling marks ( You have to re-color the bullet with each chambering attempt). h) When I really close, I use 1/4 turns on the seating depth screw. When I don't see any marks, I seat the bullet to start at least 0.025" off the lands. Now load about 5 rounds at 0.010" increments 'off' the lands a check your groups. Make sure you are off the 'lands' during this process. A bullet seated while still contacting the 'lands' will introduce a 'pressure' spike'. Some small caliber (22LR) rifles are done this way, but for calibers exibiting high pressures, I don't recommend it unless you back off of the powder charge. For reading I have found a book titled "The Ultimate In Rifle Accuracy". I'm still reading it. The Author is Glenn Newick, ISBN0-88317-159-7. It covers just about everything you need from building your own rifle, bench techniques, readingwind and case preperatiom. Maybe this helps? Good shooting [/QUOTE]
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