reloading for an ar 15 223

Discussion in 'Reloading' started by oldfamily, Nov 13, 2008.

  1. oldfamily

    oldfamily Well-Known Member

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    Just wondering if there is any thing different to load for an automatic rifle compared to a bolt action. Would I need to use a factory crimp die to keep the bullets in the necks or am I just thinking to much into it. What all would I need, and what powders would work for this. Oldfamily.
     
  2. pressman

    pressman Well-Known Member

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    I have one and it drives tacks.
    H335 24.4 grains and 60 varmint from seirra. 1/2 moa
    i know 3 other ar's that like this load also 3016 ft per min.
     

  3. Ridgerunner665

    Ridgerunner665 Well-Known Member

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    There are certain powders that are better suited to "gas guns" like the AR.

    The good news is there are plenty of them...its not a short list.

    I use Reloder 15 in my AR loads.

    Its best to crimp the bullets...some people refuse to do it, but I know from experience that an AR 15 beats the heck out of a round during feeding, just look at the ejected brass...besides the dent on the shoulder from bouncing off the deflector, it will be nicked and dinged in several other places 90% of the time. The feedramps "deflect" the round (sorta), which is a good place to get bullet setback with loads that are not crimped.

    Opinions vary greatly on load data... I have some recipes for 5.56 NATO spec ammo (way too hot for a 223 Remington chamber)

    I also have some decent varmint loads, all of which use Reloder 15 except 1 (that one uses AA 2230)
     
  4. m249

    m249 Well-Known Member

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    I shoot 55gr. noslers over 25grs. of reloader 15. I don't used a crimp and I have had no problems. Some books say to stay away from match primers beacause they are a little softer and the floating firing pin might cause a round to go off before the bolt is locked. other then that is there is nothing really different than a bolt gun.
     
  5. uncleB

    uncleB Well-Known Member

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    there are a couple of things that I do different when reloading for an AR-15, first is that I run more neck tension than for a bolt action but I dont crimp (or use cannalured bullets).
    On a bolt action I never full length size my cases unless they need it, on an AR15 they need to be full length sized every time. set-up your FL dies so that you are setting back the shoulder about .001" this will also slightly size the body and web area.(AR's require a slightly looser chamber-cartridge fit to ensure reliable operation).
    UB
    as for powders it depends on bullet weight, what bullets are you planning on using?
     
    Last edited: Nov 15, 2008
  6. oldfamily

    oldfamily Well-Known Member

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    I am planning on using 55 to 77 grain bullets. With the majority being the 69 grain smk. Rifle has a 1/8 twist.
     
  7. pressman

    pressman Well-Known Member

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    My Ar is also a 1-8 twist with 24" barrel. And i do not crimp my bullets. I have 3 other friends that reload 223's and they do not crimp either. but i like i stated if you use a 60 varmint bullet from sierra. they are cheap 13.50 per 100 and with 24.4 grains of h335 we all get 1/2- 3/4 moa at 100 yards. that little 60 gr. will flat destroy a prairie dog. and very effective on coyotes as well. mine shoots average speed of 3016 ft per second my buddy has a 20" barrel and his runs about 2600ft.
    i have tried any heavier bullets. just been to satisfied with a really cheap load that works.
     
  8. bigedp51

    bigedp51 Well-Known Member

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    I load for three AR15 rifles and a Savage .223 and like the RCBS AR Series dies that come with a taper crimp die. I crimp my blasting ammo but for my A2 HBAR I do not crimp the 69 grain Sierras and use a smaller expander.

    NOTE, the RCBS AR Series dies are small base, and only size the case .0005 smaller than my standard .223 RCBS die. The small base die comes in handy when buying once fired Lake City brass and returning the cases a smaller diameter. Shoulder set back for a semi-auto is .003 to .006 and the case diameter after sizing should be .003 to .005 smaller than its fired diameter for reliable extraction.

    I would advise buying once fired Lake City brass, because of lower costs and the Lake City brass has the hardest brass. Meaning longer case life and not crying if you loose a few cases.

    .223/5.56 - Cleaned, Deprimed & Swaged - LC Only - 500 Pieces $55.00 free shipping.

    .223/5.56 Cleaned, Deprimed & Swaged Lake City Brass 500 Pieces

    How Hard is Your Brass? 5.56 and .223 Rem Base Hardness Tests

    http://bulletin.accurateshooter.com...r-brass-5-56-and-223-rem-base-hardness-tests/
     
  9. brentc

    brentc Well-Known Member

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    My favorite load across several ARs with NATO or Wylde chambers is a 77 grain Nosler Custom Comp with or without cannelure, 23.2 grains of 8208 in RP or LC brass with a CCI450. OAL is 2.255

    No crimp necessary. However, I FL size with a RCBS small base sizer.
     
  10. Kansaswoodguy

    Kansaswoodguy Well-Known Member

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    75 HPBT match Hornady COL 2.25 CCI 400 no crimp 22.1gr IMR 8202 there is another node at book max of 23.2gr but unless your going over 700 yards no need to chase that one. Shooting eggs at 400 yards the other day with that loadgun)
     
  11. RT2506

    RT2506 Well-Known Member

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    I use a Lee Factory Crimp die on all my loads. I personally have had better accuracy using the crimp die. My rifle shoots really good with the 69 Sierra MK with the suggested accuracy load from the Sierra manual with Varget powder LC cases and CCI BR primers. I have a Bushmaster 9 twist. The only primer I have ever had trouble with slam fire is the Fed. 210 Match and that was in an M1 Garand. I took the advice of a long time reloader that shot a lot of these type free float firing pin rifles to never use Federal primers because they are too sensitive.