Reloading 300 Winchester Short Magnum

welcome aboard!

lots of guys here do... whats your question? You may want to try the "search" feature for some quick answers.
 
My questions if you will are based on the powder Alliant and Hornady Bullets.
It seems with the new Reloader 17 powder there are different recipes and some revert back to RL15 and RL19. You would think that with RL17 being the powder designed for the short mag they would have changed the recipe on all short mags to use the 17 and not go back and forth with the three different powders. And nobody will stick their neck out with the Hornady bullet and say it's ok to use the RL17 with a manufacture other then Speers. If your using the same grain bullet as the recipe no matter who the manufacture is that should be a valid recipe. Am I correct in this assumption? And how do you recalculate the velosity when you reduce the powder by 10% is that reduction propostional to 10% as well?
Thank you John O'Neill
 
Well, I will admit to not being familiar with R17, and I only use Hornady 110vmax and the 180 nosler BT and AB's in mine (I actually use H4350). Furthermore, I've been loading the wsm for only about 2 years (loading rifles since '93). I have developed loads for only 2 rifles and I developed a varmint load and two hunting loads for mine and one hunting load for another. So, I wouldn't consider myself as being extremely experienced, but I would say experienced. So take what I say for what it's worth ;).

As far as R17 being "designed" for the short mag goes, there isn't one "perfect" powder for any cartidge. There are great powders, good powders, and not so good powders.

When I do load development I use many different manuals. I honestly don't care too much what brand bullet is being used because one combination may shoot much better in one rifle than another...too many variables to consider the reloading manual's "most accurate load" as gospel.
When I look at loading manuals to try to pick a starting point for load development I look at powder, bullet weight, bullet type (boat tail, flat base..) primer type, bullet brand, barrel twist ------in that order of importance imho---. You have to use the same weight bullet and the same powder when using a manual. I generally don't care too much if it is a Nosler bt, or a SMK when I start my testing. I always start testing with the minimum powder charge.

As for the powder reduction and velocity reduction goes, no I don't beleive you can make that assumption. It may be somewhat close, but not close enought to base any sort of tradjectory table off of. You simply need to chronograph your rounds imo.
 
Britz,
I just want to say thank you for taking the time to answer my inquiry. Your answer was pretty much my mind set but you like to hear other more experienced opinons. I have been loading 357 Magnum shells since 1970 but I'm new to the rifle reloading game. The more I research this type of reloading the more I know I don't know. Well thanks again. JJ Division
 
your welcome! This is a great resource site. There are Many members who are much more experienced than I in all respects of hunting, loading, shooting...
 
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