Refinishing gunstock

Discussion in 'Gunsmithing' started by mrbofus, Feb 25, 2014.

  1. mrbofus

    mrbofus Well-Known Member

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    Hello,

    looking for a bit of advise on refinishing an older Remington 700 Wood sock.
    I've read thru several how to's here and they have been helpful...
    except what to use to get the old hard clear finish off the stock?

    I have tried the citrus stuff, and 2 other kinds of varnish/paint/stain remover and not having much luck.

    Any suggestions?

    The stock is off an Remington 700 ADL . 1990 ish.

    Thanks,
     
  2. Joel Russo

    Joel Russo Official LRH Sponsor

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    Sandpaperlightbulb
     

  3. tnshooter111

    tnshooter111 Well-Known Member

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    +1 220 grit
     
  4. J E Custom

    J E Custom Well-Known Member

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    If you have a really tough finish try easy off oven cleaner or some of the commercial paint removers. after you remove all of the finish wash the stock good and let dry, use a tooth brush on the checkering to clean it,then use wet or dry sandpaper to remove any dents or scratches. Let dry for several days and you are ready to apply the finish.

    Use fine steel wool between coats (oooo) to smooth even more.

    Just one way that works for me

    J E CUSTOM
     
  5. mrbofus

    mrbofus Well-Known Member

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    Thanks,
    I have read a lot of how to's but it seemed like sand paper was the last resort to taking off the old hard finish so I thought I would ask before going there.

    The finish is like a clear polyeurathane or something that just doesnt want to come off.

    what about the checkering?

    I would like to take me time and do a good job but this is trying my patience so far.
     
  6. coyotekiller82

    coyotekiller82 Well-Known Member

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    I found that with the paint stripper I used that if I let it sit for a few minutes before trying to remove the old finish it helped.

    As J E CUSTOM pointed out, sandpaper is your friend!!

    I followed the instructions on Birchwood Casey website under resources tab at the top, you can download the PDF and print it out. Worked wonders on any wood I've redone!!

    Good luck!!
     
  7. Leslie Sapp

    Leslie Sapp Well-Known Member

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    If the regular paint strippers won't work after letting them sit a while, go down to your local auto parts store and ask for a can of "aircraft stripper".
    You may have to order it, depending on where you live. I've sprayed that stuff on epoxy coated scuba tanks, waited five minutes and then washed all the epoxy off with a garden hose!
     
  8. J E Custom

    J E Custom Well-Known Member

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    +1

    I have used this stuff before and it works. It is sometimes hard to find though.

    J E CUSTOM
     
  9. mrbofus

    mrbofus Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for the suggestions,

    I guess I will get the sand paper out and give it a go, A buddy of mine works at a cabinet shop and he says he has some razzoot stuff he will get me to try.

    I will let ya know what works.

    Cheers
     
  10. Dr. Vette

    Dr. Vette Well-Known Member

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    AutoZone carries the aircraft stripper, so you can check there or a similar auto parts store.
     
  11. Dosh

    Dosh Well-Known Member

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    Bofus, used a spray can stripper. After letting it set I tested some spots to make sure the old finish was loose. Next I used a scrub brush and water to remove all the stripper and rinsed. Lucky here in Arizona hang in the garage for three days drys stocks very well. Good luck
     
  12. pmh-usa

    pmh-usa Well-Known Member

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    I would like to share this with all as it is the best remover that I have come across by far. It is called "JASCO Premium Paint & Epoxy Remover" and has the same consistence as "Strip-Eze" . IMPORTANT FACTORS: (1) wear chemical-resistant rubber/plastic gloves (this stuff is powerful and will chemically 'burn' your skin, and (2) once applied, give the stuff time to work but do not let it evaporate to the point that becomes to a dry scale, if so you have to reapply even more to re-wet and remove the sludge. It has removed Rem finishes for me - one good soaking application removed 75-85% of the finish and the second application took care of the rest - there's always going to be some difficult spots that you will need to scrape off but not many.

    After stripping I always scrub with hot water and plastic wool and let dry for a minimum of three days before resanding.
     
  13. mrbofus

    mrbofus Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for all the advise,

    I have resorted to sanding and just doing a little at a time, taking my time.
    The checkering may pose an issue but I will deal with that when i get there.

    MB