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<blockquote data-quote="albertakid" data-source="post: 728816" data-attributes="member: 9559"><p>If your working with known distances why not take a day at the range and by adjusting your reticle up or down try to find a setting that closely matches those distances.</p><p> </p><p>I have done this with ballistic reticles in order to fine tune them to a handload just remember the substensions between th lines get smaller as the power is decreased.</p><p> </p><p>I would think you could pick up a 3-9 nikon with theyre balistic reticle and be pretty close with a little range work . </p><p> </p><p>I messed with mildots for a few years ended up going with an moa substension scope instead and have never looked back alot easier to find hold points in a quick fasion and with a little time it is pretty easy to memorize your hold ups out to 500 or as someone said put a small chart in your rear butler creek cap for reference</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="albertakid, post: 728816, member: 9559"] If your working with known distances why not take a day at the range and by adjusting your reticle up or down try to find a setting that closely matches those distances. I have done this with ballistic reticles in order to fine tune them to a handload just remember the substensions between th lines get smaller as the power is decreased. I would think you could pick up a 3-9 nikon with theyre balistic reticle and be pretty close with a little range work . I messed with mildots for a few years ended up going with an moa substension scope instead and have never looked back alot easier to find hold points in a quick fasion and with a little time it is pretty easy to memorize your hold ups out to 500 or as someone said put a small chart in your rear butler creek cap for reference [/QUOTE]
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