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The Basics, Starting Out
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<blockquote data-quote="Coyboy" data-source="post: 484428" data-attributes="member: 3733"><p>1=2 use a traxler industries kwik clip it's cheap and feeds short mags like buttered pigs.</p><p></p><p>3. a #4 would fit no problem that stock is opened for a varmit contour. That stock is heavy and I always say put the weight in the barrel. your going with a barrel that weights 3.5lbs and a 5.5lb stock, I would flip those 2 around and get a lighter stock and a heavier barrel.</p><p></p><p>4. epoxy bed only that stock has an aluminum bedding block, pillars are redundant to such a stock.</p><p></p><p>5. 300 wsm match chamber throated for a long action, and whatever bullets you plan to shoot as the primary. Send a dummy to your smith, set the BT/bearing surface equal with the neck shoulder junction of the case.</p><p></p><p>6. a gun that weight dosen't need a brake unless you want a better chance of spotting your own shots, You can have a thread protector put on but get the thread specs to your smith from the suppresor manf. first.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Coyboy, post: 484428, member: 3733"] 1=2 use a traxler industries kwik clip it's cheap and feeds short mags like buttered pigs. 3. a #4 would fit no problem that stock is opened for a varmit contour. That stock is heavy and I always say put the weight in the barrel. your going with a barrel that weights 3.5lbs and a 5.5lb stock, I would flip those 2 around and get a lighter stock and a heavier barrel. 4. epoxy bed only that stock has an aluminum bedding block, pillars are redundant to such a stock. 5. 300 wsm match chamber throated for a long action, and whatever bullets you plan to shoot as the primary. Send a dummy to your smith, set the BT/bearing surface equal with the neck shoulder junction of the case. 6. a gun that weight dosen't need a brake unless you want a better chance of spotting your own shots, You can have a thread protector put on but get the thread specs to your smith from the suppresor manf. first. [/QUOTE]
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