Question on truing a 700 action for use with a standard size threaded barrel

Discussion in 'Gunsmithing' started by sambo3006, Feb 7, 2012.

  1. sambo3006

    sambo3006 Well-Known Member

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    I picked up a Hart barrel here that was threaded and chambered by Speedy Gonzales so I can assume that the threads are nice and true. The threads are standard size for Remington 700 action. I'm going to have it put on a Remington action, not a custom action.

    My question is would it be worth it to have the action trued with the exception of the threads? I plan on using an aftermarket recoil lug also. I'd like everything to be as square as possible for best accuracy potential but don't know if I'm wasting my money having everything trued on the action when I'm not having the threads trued.

    I realize there is no cut and dried answer and it will partially depend on how true the threads are on that particular action but I'd like som input on it from the experts.

    As an aside, I haven't acquired the action yet and it will probably be either a new SPS or an older BDL. Which one would you pick for greater likelihood of a fairly square action?
     
  2. grit

    grit Well-Known Member

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    Interesting. What'd the barrel come off? If it was fit to a trued action, you probably have room to open the threads.

    The barrel needs to be timed and headspaced at least. Got enough shank to set it back? You'd get a fresh throat.

    I'd true the action and deal with the threads as required. Several factors would determine the best approach.
     
    Last edited: Feb 7, 2012

  3. rscott5028

    rscott5028 Well-Known Member

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    Provided the barrel doesn't need a setback...

    I would lap the lugs, headspace, and shoot it.

    To true the action properly, you'll need to chase the threads which will adversely affect the pre-threaded barrel. So, you haven't gained anything.

    -- richard
     
  4. IdahoCTD

    IdahoCTD Well-Known Member

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    Measure the threaded portion and see if it was set up on a trued action. For a Remington the standard shank size is 1.062 if it's larger then that the action it was on was probably trued and you'll have trouble fitting it to your new action without recuting the factory threads because the thread depth on the barrel won't be enough to clear the smaller factory threads in the action. If the shank is 1.062 or smaller I'd do what has been mentioned....lap the lugs, set the head space, and run with it.
     
  5. sambo3006

    sambo3006 Well-Known Member

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    I'm 99% sure the threads are standard size. I have another barrel that came off a rifle with trued threads and it measures larger than the thread OD on this barrel. I also have a thread protector that came on another barrel that had standard threads and it screws on to this barrel just fine and won't screw onto the other barrel with oversize threads.

    I agree with at least lapping the lugs, but how about the lug abuttments in the action? How about squaring up the action face and the bolt face?

    There is enough shank to cut off and re-thread, just don't know if I want to go shorter on the barrel. Maybe I should just go ahead and do the whole works.
     
  6. rscott5028

    rscott5028 Well-Known Member

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    What cartridge is it?
    How many rounds has it fired?
    Have you bore scoped it?
    What's the throat look like?
    How's the corwn look?

    How does the rifle shoot with the existing barrel?

    What are your accuracy expectations?

    If you screw it on, headspace, and it shoots. Then great.

    If it doesn't shoot well, then you may as well set it back, re-thread/re-chamber and blueprint the action. You could do all that from the git-go. But, it seems like you were wanting to save a few dollars.

    Of course, headspacing may be a non-issue, or it may require reaming depending on several factors including mention of replacing the recoil lug. If you end up needing to use a reamer, then you might as well set it back and go the whole 9 yards.

    When all goes well, you can have great success by cutting corners. If it doesn't work out, then it usually ends up costing more.

    -- richard
     
  7. IdahoCTD

    IdahoCTD Well-Known Member

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    If your going to square the front of the action you might as well do the lug abuttment because you have to dial it in to do either one and doing the second operation takes seconds.