Quality reloading equipment

Jarbuz

New Member
Joined
Oct 8, 2011
Messages
1
Hi all,
I'm new here, my name is Greg. I'm thinking to buy reloading equipment from scratch. In Poland where I live there is no much information about such things, so I ask for advise. It is going to cost me few bobs to get it sent to Poland where I live, so I'm looking for the good quality stuff. Could you be kind and shear with me your opinion about good equipment, please. I will work on 38 special, 6.5x55 Swedish, 9mm para, 0.308 Win mag and 0.338 Lapua magnum. I do not mind to pay good money for the equipment but I need something to last and work perfectly. Any suggestion?
Many thanks. :)
 
I have been reloading for over 40 years and I use RCBS or Redding equipment.
Rock Chucker is still chucking rocks from 22-250 to 416 remington magnum. Does pistols from 9mm to 460 S&W
 
+1

Get the Rock Chucker Supreme kit. Comes with almost everything you need. Get some dies, powder, primers, brass, bullets and a shell holder and you will be set to reload. For your pistol you might be interested in casting your own bullets. Look into Lee molds and the lee production pot.
 
Hi all,
I'm new here, my name is Greg. I'm thinking to buy reloading equipment from scratch. In Poland where I live there is no much information about such things, so I ask for advise. It is going to cost me few bobs to get it sent to Poland where I live, so I'm looking for the good quality stuff. Could you be kind and shear with me your opinion about good equipment, please. I will work on 38 special, 6.5x55 Swedish, 9mm para, 0.308 Win mag and 0.338 Lapua magnum. I do not mind to pay good money for the equipment but I need something to last and work perfectly. Any suggestion?
Many thanks. :)

go back and do a little research on various pieces of equipment. I use a Forster Co-Ax press and mostly Forster dies, but do own a few other brands here and there. Also have an RCBS press for odd jobs that are harder to do on the Co-Ax. I wouldn't bother with micometer head dies, unless you just gotta have them. I use a little Lyman 55 measurer and a Harrell, the Harrell is probably way over the top for your needs. I sometimes seat primers with the Forster, but most of the time I do it with a K&M hand priming tool. You'll need a case trimmer, and recommend the Wilson as I think it cuts the squarest. You'll also need a powder trickeler and a scale of some kind. Some folks like the old style beam scales and others like digital ones. I use three different PACTS.

Sinclair used to sell a book on precision reloading, and I do recommend this book! I got mine from Fred before it was ever published, and it was an education in itself.
gary
 
just to add one more thing here. A lot of folks recommend buying kits from this guy or that guy. I don't! After about 18 months you end up replacing two thirds of the stuff for better equipment. I looked at stuff for over a year before I ever bought the first piece of equipment (press), and only then made my decision over advice from Bob Milek and a couple others. But the final thing was at the NRA Convention where they must have had fifty presses setup in a row sizing .308 cases. All were pretty much the same except for one, and that's the one I bought. My first dies were Forster, and bought them after a conversation with Fred Sinclair. Wish I'd have taken his advice on a case trimmer, but ended up going thru three or four before I picked up the Wilson. My buy on a measurer was by word of mouth, and looking at two or three others. In ended up being the Lyman with a Redding 3BR also in the running. (I had a buddy that used one, and used it for a couple weeks).You also will need a good set of calipers for measuring and maybe a good micometer down the road. I suspect that in Europe the pair of choice would be the Interrapid (they make the best dial indicators I might add). What I'm saying here is to buy good stuff and not have to make excuses a couple years later.

I've had very good luck with Lyman pistol dies thru the years, but there's nothing wrong with the RCBS or Lee's as well. I happen to like the way the Lyman crimps and expands the case mouth, but is it really that much better? I doubt it. Bottle neck cases are another game, and I only use Forster and Redding. I like Forster dies better if that matters. (Forster sells a really nice .308 National Match die set by the way). Sinclair sells the best priming tool on this planet, but I can't use it well due to a messed up hand (thanks to a 122 rocket). The K&M is shaped a little different, and I can use it it. Otherwise I'd own one of Fred's.

I do recommend buying good cases to start out with, and maintain them. I would not recommend neck sizing for awhile. This is something you have to work your way into, and with a factory chamber it often yields little if any results. I've been doing this since 1978, and I still consider myself in the learning curve. Yet I consider myself to be one of the lucky ones as I lived near some of the best shooters on this planet, and gleaned a lot of knowledge off of them
gary
 
just to add one more thing here. A lot of folks recommend buying kits from this guy or that guy. I don't! After about 18 months you end up replacing two thirds of the stuff for better equipment. I looked at stuff for over a year before I ever bought the first piece of equipment (press), and only then made my decision over advice from Bob Milek and a couple others. But the final thing was at the NRA Convention where they must have had fifty presses setup in a row sizing .308 cases. All were pretty much the same except for one, and that's the one I bought. My first dies were Forster, and bought them after a conversation with Fred Sinclair. Wish I'd have taken his advice on a case trimmer, but ended up going thru three or four before I picked up the Wilson. My buy on a measurer was by word of mouth, and looking at two or three others. In ended up being the Lyman with a Redding 3BR also in the running. (I had a buddy that used one, and used it for a couple weeks).You also will need a good set of calipers for measuring and maybe a good micometer down the road. I suspect that in Europe the pair of choice would be the Interrapid (they make the best dial indicators I might add). What I'm saying here is to buy good stuff and not have to make excuses a couple years later.

I've had very good luck with Lyman pistol dies thru the years, but there's nothing wrong with the RCBS or Lee's as well. I happen to like the way the Lyman crimps and expands the case mouth, but is it really that much better? I doubt it. Bottle neck cases are another game, and I only use Forster and Redding. I like Forster dies better if that matters. (Forster sells a really nice .308 National Match die set by the way). Sinclair sells the best priming tool on this planet, but I can't use it well due to a messed up hand (thanks to a 122 rocket). The K&M is shaped a little different, and I can use it it. Otherwise I'd own one of Fred's.

I do recommend buying good cases to start out with, and maintain them. I would not recommend neck sizing for awhile. This is something you have to work your way into, and with a factory chamber it often yields little if any results. I've been doing this since 1978, and I still consider myself in the learning curve. Yet I consider myself to be one of the lucky ones as I lived near some of the best shooters on this planet, and gleaned a lot of knowledge off of them
gary

I agree with these points. I usually recommend the rcbs kit and advise selling pieces as replacement becomes necessary. Great points though. Could you please tell me what press you use, I want to upgrade my rockchucker to something more precise. I want a press that helps limit runout, not a liability.
 
I'll second the recomendation for Forster dies especially the micro seating dies , for rifle reloads anyway. For pistol loads I've had good service with Lee dies. I use a Dillon 550 press for everything and it works great even for rifle. It is definately the cats meow for pistol reloads. Definately check out Sinclare for equipment.:)
 
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