Primer vs. Powder

25.06

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Jan 15, 2010
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Afternoon to all,
I think we would all agree that Powders have different Burn Rates and Primers are rated Hot to Cool. My question is: Would you match a slow burning powder to a cool primer ? How about a fast burning powder to a Hot primer? Your reply would be appreciated.
 
There are to many variables to assume a given primer will perform better with a given powder than some other primer. Truth is some guns will shoot better "wound tight" (hot/hot) and the next one in the rack will shoot better with a milder component or both components milder. Sometimes you just have to try them. Same with bullets. Allot of these things are trial and error even if we all wish science could save us the trouble. Get a small quantity of a few different components, mix and match to find what works best and then buy a large lot of those components. Wish there was an easier solution but if there is I would have to see it to believe it.
 
I agree with D.ID
And I've never seen primers 'rated' hot cold or otherwise.
Maybe it's been tested and put in some manual, I don't know. But I know primer seating, firing pin strike energy and speed, and headspace would affect their results.
Much of this is why it's so random from gun to gun.
 
A slow, or ball, powder will sometimes benefit from a HOT or Magnum primer because these powders are a bit harder to ignite. This becomes especially true when you get above about 80gr. of case capacity.

A medium or fast powder in a Large Rifle type brass will almost always do perfectly fine with a Standard LR Non-Hot type primer. Though some days you will occasionally run into a reloading situation where a Magnum or Hot primer will show you benefits, but this is usually the exception to the rule.

For a .223 / 5.56 you really want to use CCI Mag SR, or Remington 7 1/2 are most generally THE primers...

Primer Info & Chart + Milspec Primers for Semi-Autos & Other Primer Applications
There is some excellent information in this link that explains a LOT.

Have a good one,
Gary
 
MikeCR,

Not quite sure what you are trying to say, but my initial post is Dead On... sir I have reloaded for over 20 years and I was taught to reload by a man who was quite serious minded. He has been all over the world in various "Security" related jobs so his life was literally on the line at times. When his ammo had to perform it Really *Seriously* had to perform, and with no excuses.

Not trying to be an ***, but as I sit here I am wondering .... I take reloading **** Seriously just FYI... :) Re-Read my post and think about it. I have read German Salizars writings quite a bit, I respect him more than you may realize. Not sure you read my link...not sure you read German's .... a LOT of good solid information. There are always rock solid reasons for when I recommend a primer that have been tested over time. The reason for them being different is because there are so many Different Types of Brass and case designs / rifle designs and each will have "a reason" for the various job types.

I hope this did not come off sounding poorly or "Off Color" as I mean no disrespect to anyone on this site! Simply discussing is all.

Gary
 
25.06,
Your gun will let you know when you get it right. I only had to try one load to get a good (not AAA ) load for my 338WM. H4350 and GM215Match. I don't need same hole to meet my needs. I can screw it up with just neighborhood hits.:rolleyes:

Good luck in getting an early combo.:D

Check your PVT MESSAGES.
 
I think many people put too muck relavance into the primer, when it is mostly the bullet and powder that make the show happen. I've fired primers onto paper with a short barreled pistol, and the biggest difference was the amount of stuff they deposited on the paper. Fed 210 and Wlr were by far the best as far as clean, with the others worse to varying degrees. This was years ago, and CCi and Rem may have cleaned up their act, but they were rather dirty at the time.
Another thing as to primer choice is how well chemically a primer reacts to a powder. I've had trouble with Magpro and 215's, and when I called Sierra on another topic the Tech. (Rich-I believe-it's been a couple of years) said to go to Wlr with the Accurate ball type powders, as the Fed primers don't oxidize well with some powders.

T3oleman is right, the gun will let you know if all is well.
 
I appreciate that insight Gary, I have a 7 rum, spherical h870 and 180 Berger to be working up and that was the post I was looking for, myself:) thx!
 
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