Pressure points

Iron Worker

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Apr 3, 2004
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Reno Nevada
Just bought a CZ-527 Heavy barrel Varmint in .204 Ruger. I've learned that it shoots very well when I treat it like a 30-06 ! Hard to the shoulder,with my left hand in front of magazine pulling it into front sand bag. Now my heavy Rem 700 in 6mm Creedmoor I don't seem to have to do that,(maybe if I did it would also shoot better) ? Today shooting my .204 I just let it rest in front and rear bag ,set the set trigger and fired. Target looked like a tight buckshot pattern. But I like I said hard to the shoulder and pulling it into bag it shot great .Any similar experience with lite rifles ?
 
I'll ask this question.

What weigth is the rifle, length of barrel, and over all length of rifle.

What is your trigger weigth set at, and how stable is the rifle off the bags.

I'm sure your a good shot since you said you can manipulate the rifle too shoot accurately.

Is this rifle light, medium, or a heavy weigth forward.

Example would be, where do you place your fore-grip on the stock too get the balance point of this rifle.

Western Canada Don
 
Here's a fast brake down of balance of my 2 medium heavy weigth rifles.

#1- rifle is
Remmy 700 LR with 25 1/2" medium weigth target barrel. In 30/06 shooting ELD-X HUNTER 178gr bullets.
Balance level point is 25" out front and 22" to the rear factory.
The back stock will soon see 8 to 10 lbs of sticky wheel weigths.
The reason for this is that my Henry Remple F Class bypod rest sits "cross-parallehttl" to the front stock fore-end pins,,, this does not allow for the needed weigth at the back of the rifle too hold it secure on the rear stiff bag. This is not saying that some of those sticky weights won't end up on the fore front stock.

This add weigth at the rear will move my balance point too the hing plate where I want it.
The nice thing about the stick one wheel weigths is it allows me too fine tune the balance at nill for expenses.
I'm shooting open F with this rifle, so I can go up to 22 ish pounds.

#2- rifle is
Remmy 700 SPS medium Heavy barrel Varmint at 25 1/2"
Shooting ELD-X HUNTER 178gr bullets.
Chambered in 308.
Level balance is 23 1/2" out front and 22" at rear with Harrison BR bypod attached.

This rifle will see 6 too 7 lbs added since it has too fit the FTR category at no more than 18 1/2 lbs.
These stick on wheel weigths can go at the back or front fore-stock where they are needed for the best balance point,,, and they can be removed for harvest season. "most of them that is".

We get these wheel weigth for nothing since we buy many tires every year. They are the fastest way too turn a norm rifle into a target match unit.

A few things that got me onto the paper this year at 600M and the constancy on the 600M 16" gong is the bypods both Harrison and the Remple along with the target match Jewel trigger with safety,,, always get it with the safety...

My tech guy set it at 8oz as it is taking some time too get the feel one it,,, I'll never shoot a rifle that does not have one since factory triggers just don't do it for me now.

They are so predictable and smooth,,, I can see why they win so many national matches with them,,, once a person uses one,,, there's no going back.

Last but not least,,, the solid hard bunny ear back bag.

Plant that back stock into one of these and get rid of the other hand.

Pinky too pull the rifle back with a slight amount of pressure, and trigger finger,,, "no thumb or thumb palm."

So F shoot for target, and sling on hand TR for harvest season.

Always glad too share on ideas that could improve our game plan at range or in field.
I'll do some more measurements tomorrow.

PS: I'm doing ok at the range, I just hope that this stuff carrys over in field.

Don from Western Canada

Added edit ::: The lead wheel weigths idea is mostly for long distance accuracy, some remain in the test phases, some removed,,, the option to the stick-ons is they can be added, moved, or taken off... I remove most of them during harvest season.

I'm ok with a 14 too 15lb rifle come predator control season as it steadys the rifle in the cold winter months, coyotes are pretty small across the field,,, and my hands are not as steady as they were in my youth.

This is why folks like us choose mid too heavy barrel rifles,,, they seem too lesson the vibrating vib nods when jacking those rounds threw the chamber when taking down the running furry critters. Predator critters that is.
 
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I just booted a light weight 30/06 short barrel that shot scatter groups.

Too light, crappy non just trigger, and not worth investing funds into it for the direction I'm going in.

I did a few mods too see if it would shoot better and had it checked over.

It never improved in accuracy so I picked better quality rifles.

Scatter gun rifles arent worth my effort unless they are worth time and effort that fits my builds.

Every heavy barrel rifle l've owned has been spot on accurate.

Don
 
44 1/4 OAL rifle length 25.5" bbl Sporter stock Muzzle Diameter is .742. With Leupold VX-6 scope on it,I bet it weighs 10 lbs. Its CZs short mauser .223 caliber and under rifle. it has a set trigger,when set its under 10oz ,its sweet. Thanks Don for info and effort.
 
Your welcome IW

The short rifle is was having scatter issues with was a Ruger M77 Mark II with Sporter short Barrel 20", about 9 lbs with non adjustable trigger.

I had the action zero stress bedded and a lighter trigger spring put in that did not improve grouping.

We started playing with the action screw tourqe seeing if that was the issue, next we checked the cone too lands and the crown tip.

Every thing was spot on.

We tried every thing under the sun too get that rifle grouping tightened up with no success.
I wasn't about too start spending coin on this rifle since I sold it off and bought 2 new rifles too replace it.

The same thing worked for me,,, if I anchored down solid too the ground that rifle had no problems tagging iron silhouettes from 200 too 600m's,,, but when I'd go into free float mode the scatter grouping would start all over again.

My 2 options were sink more coin into it, or buy a long mid weigth heavy barrel with the most common action too work off of incase I decide too go full bore at FTR or TR match.

Hope that this helps as there are a few rifles out there that just don't shoot well with out investing some coin in them

Don
 
One other thing I'd like too add.

I'm the only dude in our area that does the weigth change between shooting match or in-field game harvest as I'm normally a 1 rifle person.

Just happens to be that I need 2 rifles for compitition incase one needs a barrel swap or if a Grizzly Bear decides to chew the end of the stock off. LOL.

The SPS 308 is a smaller version test rifle too my Remmy LR 30/06 which is my flag ship unit.
The SPS assists the LR since it proves or dis-proves what's going on at the range on any given day... Is it me or the package.

I hate too admit this, but that little SPS out shoots every rifle I've ever owned,,, it forces me too buckle down with the LR 30/06.

Any Who,,, in match I load these rifles up with alot of weigth,,, but in Sporter mode they "normally" diet back to 11 1/2 lbs.

My sheep harvest days are past, so I'm allowed to own heavy lb rifles. Ha.

I'm getting bolt up plates made as I type.
That way I can change things in the matter of seconds depending on what rifle sport I want too shoot that day,,, either match or free sport.

My weigths are listed in the above posts.

Another thing that this proves by having my rifle shoot pin holes in the match weigth category is it shows me how accurate the rifle really is.
If it's accurate in match mode,,, then it should be the same or "at least" the same in Sporter configuration.

This I know works because I've been doing this from my canon ball days. LOL.

Extra long heavy weigth black powder rifles with big chunks of lead.

Human canon ball launching I call it.

Don
 
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