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Precision Reloading For Long Range Hunting by Jerry Teo
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<blockquote data-quote="Haagen Dazs" data-source="post: 626615" data-attributes="member: 42602"><p>I love coming back and reading old articles, I always seem to learn somehting new every time.</p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p>I'm wondering how your Winchester case prep method has changed over the years; more specifically, case volume.</p><p></p><p></p><p>For 7WSM, there's 300WSM Norma brass I could neck down or I could buy straight 7WSM brass from Winchester. I always though I could buy 250 cases, weight sort them, and sell off the 50 that fall outside a bellcurve; however, after reading your article again, you mention this isn't worth it due to machining tolerances.</p><p></p><p>Should I prime the cases and use some fine powder to sort the cases by volume (after preping) or should I just buy 200 and hope that the Winchester brand brass is to the same standards as Norma?</p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p>Thanks Jerry,</p><p>Kevin</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Haagen Dazs, post: 626615, member: 42602"] I love coming back and reading old articles, I always seem to learn somehting new every time. I'm wondering how your Winchester case prep method has changed over the years; more specifically, case volume. For 7WSM, there's 300WSM Norma brass I could neck down or I could buy straight 7WSM brass from Winchester. I always though I could buy 250 cases, weight sort them, and sell off the 50 that fall outside a bellcurve; however, after reading your article again, you mention this isn't worth it due to machining tolerances. Should I prime the cases and use some fine powder to sort the cases by volume (after preping) or should I just buy 200 and hope that the Winchester brand brass is to the same standards as Norma? Thanks Jerry, Kevin [/QUOTE]
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