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Long Range Hunting & Shooting
Please help me build a Rifle.
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<blockquote data-quote="AJ Peacock" data-source="post: 171110" data-attributes="member: 4885"><p>Well, its not a round I would recommend learning to reload with. I've just started with this round over the last couple weeks (others here have been reloading for it for a year).</p><p></p><p>1) Components : Brass around $2/each. Then you add a little for fireforming (I think Kirby charges around $1)</p><p> 408 Chey Tac brass. You can fireform your own or Kirby can fireform them in a jig he's built.</p><p>2) Bullets: Most use either the Sierra Matchking in 300gr or one of the heavier Wildcat bullets. I chose the Sierra, since they are readily available</p><p>3) Powder: Although several have been tried, I believe the #1 powder is Hodgdon H50BMG (from 143-145gr is the typical load range)</p><p>4) Primers: Federal 215</p><p></p><p>Tools required.</p><p>1) You can't use the smaller presses, as they don't have a large enough loading window. The larger Reddings and RCBS's work great. (Redding Ultra 700 and RCBS AmmoMaster 2 are examples)</p><p>2) I like hand priming and use a Lee hand primer. But it wont work on such a large shell. I bought an RCBS handprimer and had to grind off the top to make the shellholder fit! (BTW: shellholders are $15/each)</p><p>3) You will want to be able to trim the cases square. My RCBS trimmer wouldn't work (not big enough). I had to buy the larger Forster trimmer kit.</p><p></p><p>Other than that, its just like reloading for any other rifle.</p><p></p><p>The dies that Kirby provides are awesome. My typical runout is less than .001" on loaded rounds. Having a perfectly square chamber doesn't hurt either.</p><p></p><p>Unless you are getting a pretty heavy rifle built, I'd recommend a muzzle brake. After all, this round has more than 7000ft lbs of energy at the muzzle! Besides, with this round, you should wear hearing protection with or without a muzzle brake.</p><p></p><p>Hope this helps, I'm sure others will add their thoughts.</p><p></p><p>AJ</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="AJ Peacock, post: 171110, member: 4885"] Well, its not a round I would recommend learning to reload with. I've just started with this round over the last couple weeks (others here have been reloading for it for a year). 1) Components : Brass around $2/each. Then you add a little for fireforming (I think Kirby charges around $1) 408 Chey Tac brass. You can fireform your own or Kirby can fireform them in a jig he's built. 2) Bullets: Most use either the Sierra Matchking in 300gr or one of the heavier Wildcat bullets. I chose the Sierra, since they are readily available 3) Powder: Although several have been tried, I believe the #1 powder is Hodgdon H50BMG (from 143-145gr is the typical load range) 4) Primers: Federal 215 Tools required. 1) You can't use the smaller presses, as they don't have a large enough loading window. The larger Reddings and RCBS's work great. (Redding Ultra 700 and RCBS AmmoMaster 2 are examples) 2) I like hand priming and use a Lee hand primer. But it wont work on such a large shell. I bought an RCBS handprimer and had to grind off the top to make the shellholder fit! (BTW: shellholders are $15/each) 3) You will want to be able to trim the cases square. My RCBS trimmer wouldn't work (not big enough). I had to buy the larger Forster trimmer kit. Other than that, its just like reloading for any other rifle. The dies that Kirby provides are awesome. My typical runout is less than .001" on loaded rounds. Having a perfectly square chamber doesn't hurt either. Unless you are getting a pretty heavy rifle built, I'd recommend a muzzle brake. After all, this round has more than 7000ft lbs of energy at the muzzle! Besides, with this round, you should wear hearing protection with or without a muzzle brake. Hope this helps, I'm sure others will add their thoughts. AJ [/QUOTE]
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