Playing with triggers

Discussion in 'Rifles, Bullets, Barrels & Ballistics' started by sewwhat89, Oct 24, 2005.

  1. sewwhat89

    sewwhat89 Well-Known Member

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    I'll be the first to admit that my knowledge about adjusting rifle triggers is limited to what I have read here and abroud on how to do it. That being said, my Uncle (a shadetree gunsmith) adjusted my 22-250 Rem trigger to 3 lbs, and it breaks like a match stick. My Sako and WW Model 70 both have unknown triggers, but both are aftermarket and tuned to break like glass rods. The triggers on my SAUM flat out suck! I guess I'll start playing with my Sendero as it will not be used hunting until possibly late Dec/early Jan. If I screw the pooch on this, what replacement trigger would the rest of you recommend?

    Shilen / Rifle Basix / Send off my mess to have it fixed

    Everywhere I go, the resounding theme seems to be avoid Timney and Jewell are expensive but worth it. Jewell triggers are not worth it for these rifles just yet. Of the three choices, which would make you the happiest?

    Thanks,

    Stephen
     
  2. zingdingo

    zingdingo Well-Known Member

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    sewwhat89,

    I have never used any of the aftermarket triggers available. That being said, what I have gathered from extensive reading is that, for the money, the Rifle Basix are the best out there. I am considering buying one for a Rem 700 now. If I get one I may try and do some quantitative analysis and report on it, but it could be a little while.

    Aftermarket triggers addressed, like you suggested, I don’t think you have anything to lose from trying to adjust your factory trigger. The instructions are pretty well publicized, a Google search of “adjusting remington 700 trigger” gives you some decent examples, although I bet you knew that. Between online reading and a book on gunsmithing I have, I adjusted my first Rem 700 trigger in about 45 minutes. After the initial learning curve, I could do it in about 1/3 of that. I only played with the trigger weight screw, it seems that the trigger is adjustable and tunable in a lot of other ways (sear adjustment, stoning/polishing contact surfaces, spring replacement), but this was all my comfort level and time available has allowed for. I feel my triggers are much better than they came, but with room definitely left for improvement, hence the Rifle Basix consideration.

    One mans opinions, good luck.
     

  3. 4ked Horn

    4ked Horn Writers Guild

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    This thread contains some great info on adjusting your sendero trigger with a good degree of confidence and safety. Read Freebores response and understand it before you go twisting set screws. Then after adjusting it yourself you will enjoy a fine factory trigger.
     
  4. huntem

    huntem Well-Known Member

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    sewwhat89,

    I have been fortunate to own rifles with Canjar, Jewell and modified factory triggers from Rem 700's and Winchester M70's. IMHO, the jewell trigger is hands down the trigger that FEELS the best to me. I am not one to jump on the bandwagon that I have a $x00 trigger!!!!!! All I can say is that the most important feature of any rifle regardless of accuracy, camo pattern, brand is the trigger. It can make or break the rifle. This is one feature that going cheap is not the the answer.
     
  5. sewwhat89

    sewwhat89 Well-Known Member

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    Cheap is all I got for now. Thats why I want to tweak it myself. After I get out of school and Houston, I will invest in some jewell triggers for my "babies"!

    That does seem to be the overwhelming majority as far as triggers go. Now, how light/heavy will I go? One question answered leads to more questions to work on. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
     
  6. 4ked Horn

    4ked Horn Writers Guild

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    [ QUOTE ]
    Now, how light/heavy will I go?

    [/ QUOTE ]

    The first time I adjusted my trigger I went a little overboard and brought it down to about 1 pound. This was great on the bench but was just a bit light for the field. Then I brought it back up to about two and a half pounds. It is a wee bit heavier than I like for calm relaxed target time but it is enough to prevent ADs in the field when shooting a handfull of chucks or ground squirrels in semi rapid succession. By AD (accidental discharge) I mean the gun was pointed in the direction I intended to shoot and I was on target before I touched the trigger but if I paused for another breath or waited for a lull in the wind or had some other distraction I sometimes had the sear trip. Even if I hit the target I still considered this an AD.

    I would wait for others to respond before picking a first weight to try. And don't hesitate to readjust if you have any condition you are not 100% comfortable with. I also adjusted the trigger for no percievable overtravel while dry firing here in my quiet home then gave it 1/4 turn toward the safe side (a hint of overtravel). This gives no percieved overtravel in the field.
     
  7. huntem

    huntem Well-Known Member

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    [ QUOTE ]
    Cheap is all I got for now.
    Now, how light/heavy will I go?

    [/ QUOTE ]

    Yes, I do understand your finacial situation nor was I implying you are cheap. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif If you saved the $$ from the low end trigger, tweak the factory trigger for now. Then apply the saved money from the low end trigger and apply it to the trigger of choice once you have more cash flow, I think you will be a lot happier.

    Foremost, I am a safe hunter. Under ideal conditions for varmint hunting, I have used triggers under 2 pounds. For hunting the PA woods/fields for bambi, the lightest is 2.5 pounds. You will find the resistance of a heavier pull welcomed for hunting but will be surprised how easy a crisp trigger will pull even at 2.5 pounds.

    Huntem
     
  8. AJ300MAG

    AJ300MAG Well-Known Member

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    I'd be real careful taking the factory Rem trigger below 3lbs with the stock spring installed. The spring has marginal preload to hold the connector in place, any dirt in the assembly can get you into trouble quick. Holland makes a replacement spring which allows you to take the trigger down to 2 1/2lbs and have the connector function properly.
     
  9. sewwhat89

    sewwhat89 Well-Known Member

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    I know what you meant! My Sako 300WM and WW .25-06 both break, my guess at 1.5-2.5 lbs. I have taken lots of animals with both. The actual # don't matter to me; I want it smooth with minimal travel.

    I have a Wilson Combat 45 ACP with the trigger set by Wilson to about 2 lbs. They "overtuned" it as I have had it on numerous occasions fire the last couple rounds on my behalf. It sounds and looks cool, but it has nearly cost me some clean draws on more than one occasion. I cannot have this happen on my hunting rig; therefore, I just want it tuned to 2-3 lbs. Four lbs will work if I can tune the creep/overtravel out.

    The current trigger does not mess me up at 535 yards, but I do pull fliers with it at 100 yards. I guess I take more time and concentrate more at longer ranges. I think a smooth trigger can eliminate all of that.

    Thanks for all your advice with this. I'll be sure to let you all know how bad I screw it up or well it goes. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
     
  10. bcd

    bcd Well-Known Member

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    At one time remmington had photo instructions on their website of how to properly adjust a factory trigger, but they did strongly reccomend not doing it.
     
  11. 4ked Horn

    4ked Horn Writers Guild

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    Now the set screw heads are sealed and if you send a rifle to them for work they will reset the adjustments to factory specs and reseal the screws "free of charge".