Planning long range build, couple question...

Discussion in 'Rifles, Bullets, Barrels & Ballistics' started by KPK, May 11, 2011.

  1. KPK

    KPK Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    195
    Joined:
    Oct 11, 2010
    I am building a long range hunting rifle in 7mm SAUM. Here's what I have so far:

    Surgeon RSR WSM model
    Brux #5 barrel
    McMillan A3 w/Terry Cross Loggerhead adjustable cheek, Surgeon DBM (on order)

    Here's what I'm wondering:

    Do I need a brake? I'm not a puss so it doesn't hurt my shoulder or anything, but just wondering about muzzle jump/staying on target.

    What triggers? I was thinking Timney, nice and wide...

    Barrel length. I've decided on 24", but don't think 26" would hurt me much? As far as weight.

    Anything you would change as far as the build goes? I'm sticking w/SAUM because I have all the components/dies/etc.

    Thanks,
    Kyle
     
    Last edited: May 11, 2011
  2. Tikkamike

    Tikkamike Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    4,357
    Joined:
    Dec 26, 2009
    I dont think you need a brake at all. although a brake makes a rifle very pleasant to shoot and they look cool. there are a lot of different styles and add a nice custom touch. draw back is they are very loud and if you have a round brake opposed to a side port brake then shooting prone can get a little dusty..

    timney makes a great trigger I use them and love them

    on my rifle i went with a 26 I now wish I had gone longer like 27-28 but it depends on what your going to use the rifle for honestly another 2 inches isnt much weight but it is a good bit of gained velocity. so unless you are trying to shave weight anywhere you can (which with a #5 bbl i assume you are not) I would go 26. What stock are you going to use? I have a greybull and I love it. I will buy more when needed for sure.. One thing that you may consider is getting a chamber reamer thats slightly tighter than sammi spec. if you have your cases measure the neck thicknesses if they are consistent then get a little tighter neck or if you neck turn then turn them and order with the approriate amout of clearance. and if you plan on shooting a longer bullet like the 168 bergers of smk's something along those lines have them throat it for whatever bullet you are hoping to use. other than that it sounds like you have a sweet built in the works. i reccomend investing in a set of redding bushing dies.
     

  3. rscott5028

    rscott5028 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,608
    Joined:
    Apr 18, 2010
    Some like Timney because it's wider than Jewell.
    Others like Jewell because they are externally adjustable.

    I always prefer a brake. ..ideally one that kicks up less dirt
    Loud isn't a factor in my opinion. You need hearing protection anyways.

    It's easy to cut a barrel down shorter. But, adding back is a problem.

    You can calculate the weight. But, it may be best to put it all together and then decide.

    You may be surprised at how heavy your rifle is with the components you've selected. ...and, that could be a good thing. ..or, not.

    It comes down to personal preference and how you use the rifle.

    -- richard
     
  4. KPK

    KPK Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    195
    Joined:
    Oct 11, 2010
    Thanks for the replies!

    I'm thinking right how it'll be around 9.5lbs w/o optics. I originally started this wanting a light weight build, but this will be a good compromise I think.

    This look right:

    Action/Trigger/DBM - 2lbs
    Barrel - 3.5lbs
    Stock - 4lbs

    What brake would you guys recommend?

    It'll be a McMillan A3 stock with KMW adjustable cheek.

    I'm leaning towards leaving the barrel finished at 26".

    I'm thinking the Timney or older 700 trigger would be fine. I've heard the Jewell can be dirst sensitive...
     
  5. Tikkamike

    Tikkamike Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    4,357
    Joined:
    Dec 26, 2009
    Depends on what you are looking for I started off wanting the tactical look but ended up comprimising and going semi tactical. I went with the centershot rifles 3 port muscle brake that is slabbed off. (round brake that has been machined flat on top and bottom. with top porting. it tames my 338 Lapua very well and a lot of times I never loose my sight picture. Center Shot Rifles - Products / Sales
    here is what it looks like on a #6 krieger which is .750 at the muzzle
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  6. KPK

    KPK Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    195
    Joined:
    Oct 11, 2010
    Thanks for the pics really like that break. Just got off of the phone with Jim (I think that's what he said), about the mini brake and he said it would work fine on the 7mm saum. Only thing that worries me is that it's 9/16x24. Would you consider that too small? Only about .1 smaller than 5/8, but still.

    I'm not necessarily going for tactical, but the A3 will be McCamo with Surgeon bottom metal so it'll be pretty tactical looking. I started just wanting an all around hunting rifle, but now I'm thinking more of a long range, but still be able to carry it, rifle.

    I'm fixing to finally get my A5 from McMillan, tomorrow, which is sweeeet! I'm working on a .260 hopefully for tac comps.
     
  7. Tikkamike

    Tikkamike Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    4,357
    Joined:
    Dec 26, 2009
    if Jim says itll work I trust his judgement. I think it would look good.
     
  8. KPK

    KPK Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    195
    Joined:
    Oct 11, 2010
    I didn't mean it like he didn't know. I was just saying that because I've heard the smaller you cut the threads in a barrel as far as diameter of the id of the brake it can affect accuracy.
     
  9. Tikkamike

    Tikkamike Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    4,357
    Joined:
    Dec 26, 2009
    yeah I knew what you meant, i was just saying i think it would work. but if your concerned go up in size. better safe than sorry
     
  10. rscott5028

    rscott5028 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,608
    Joined:
    Apr 18, 2010
    What???
     
  11. KPK

    KPK Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    195
    Joined:
    Oct 11, 2010
    The way is was explained to me was that the more you take off of a barrel as far as diameter the closer you get to the bore which can affect/expand the bore outwards. It made sense to me by taking stress out of the barrel and affecting the metal. (I'm not good at explaining...lol)

    He didn't say that it was gospel or that he even really knew whether it was fact or not, but he said he couldn't really guarantee it would shoot to it's potential. He said it would still shoot great, but "could" shoot worse with a brake. BTW he threads them all the time and even does his own, but he was just telling me that the larger the threads, IE 1/2, 9/16, 5/8, etc, is better because you are further away from the bore.
     
  12. rscott5028

    rscott5028 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,608
    Joined:
    Apr 18, 2010
    Ok. It just wasn't clear to me what you were gettng at.

    That logic makes sense although it's not certain how much it takes to make any difference.

    Any negative contribution there may also be more than offset by improvements due to recoil reduction. ...particularly when you're talking about a lot of shooting with big magnums.