Pillar bed or glass bed?

Discussion in 'Rifles, Bullets, Barrels & Ballistics' started by 270fan, Jan 16, 2007.

  1. 270fan

    270fan Active Member

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    Which is better. Pros & cons? Thannks
     
  2. EddieHarren

    EddieHarren Well-Known Member

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    This has been beat to death on this, and other forums for years. The only other topics that come close are Moly or not, and Barrel break-in. If you have a bolt action rifle and you want the best bedding job available, go pillars and epoxy. Forget "glass bedding".
     

  3. specweldtom

    specweldtom Well-Known Member

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    I like Brownells Steelbed and pillars together. The Steelbed cures slow, but it doesn't run and drip all over the place. The pillars prevent slow crushing on wood stocks with action screws torqued to 75-85 in/lbs. This torque range seems to help hold hard kicking rifles better than 65 in/lbs. Be sure that the action screws don't touch anywhere on the bore of the pillars. If they bear any part of the recoil, the rifle will not settle down. Also, fit your own action screws to get full thread engagement in the receiver. Make the ends fit flush with the inside of the receiver and don't grind any thread lead on them. Use socket heads because they are easy to torque.

    Just one opinion on a popular subject. Tom
     
  4. Maico

    Maico Well-Known Member

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    I'll agree pillars are the best after having a problem with a rifle that all of a sudden with south /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/mad.gif The bedding had collapsed..or the wood under it. So now pillars are in. No need to beat a dead horse twice. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif
     
  5. Chawlston

    Chawlston Guest

    [ QUOTE ]
    Which is better. Pros & cons? Thannks

    [/ QUOTE ]

    My gunsmith does both. He installs pillars because they will never wear out and he also beds the entire action to ensure you can remove it and replace in into the stock in exactly the same place. We all know that glue-ins are the most accurate becasue they make the whole setup monolithic (ie one-piece). Using pillars and full bedding of the action is the closest to a glue-in. My 2 cents.

    James
     
  6. CatShooter

    CatShooter Well-Known Member

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    [ QUOTE ]
    ... go pillars and epoxy. Forget "glass bedding".

    [/ QUOTE ]

    How can you go epoxie and forget glass bedding - epoxie and glass bedding are different words for the same thing???

    .
     
  7. James Jones

    James Jones Well-Known Member

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    If your gonna piller bed a gun you should go ahaead and "glass" bed it. Personaly from now on I'm only gonna be using Brownells Steel Bed as my bedding compound./

    Glass bedding is a broad rangeing term , the use of defferant compunds to bed with ranging from cheap wal-mart epoxy to hightech titanium mixed epoxys , alot of guys use JB Weld and Marine-Tex with great results.
     
  8. Buffalobob

    Buffalobob Writers Guild

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    [ QUOTE ]
    epoxie and glass bedding are different words for the same thing

    [/ QUOTE ]

    Actually, there is a lot of difference.
     
  9. J E Custom

    J E Custom Well-Known Member

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    270

    pillars are instaled to give 100% metal to metal makeup
    so torque on beding screws can remain constant.

    All stock materials can be compressed so pillars are
    installed.

    bedding positions the action and contacts it up to
    100% depending on the requirments and type of shooting
    to be done.

    Glueing the action does the same but is to extreme for
    most .

    All these things are done to make the weapon more
    consistent under different conditions.

    I like to pillar and bed the action and float the barrel

    And by the way an old (very old) trick to remove a glue
    or beded in action is to place the rifle in the freezer
    for 24hrs and remove placing the rifle on your lap barrel
    down use a rubber mallet to strike the barrel while holding
    the stock just off your lap. The shock and the different
    co efficient of expansion of the materials makes it break
    loose easy. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif

    The type of beding is a personal choice .I prefer the
    steel bed or accuglass gel for most jobs. But there are
    other good brands out there.

    Hope this helps
    J E CUSTOM
     
  10. Chawlston

    Chawlston Guest

    [ QUOTE ]
    270

    pillars are instaled to give 100% metal to metal makeup
    so torque on beding screws can remain constant.

    All stock materials can be compressed so pillars are
    installed.

    bedding positions the action and contacts it up to
    100% depending on the requirments and type of shooting
    to be done.

    Glueing the action does the same but is to extreme for
    most .

    All these things are done to make the weapon more
    consistent under different conditions.

    I like to pillar and bed the action and float the barrel

    And by the way an old (very old) trick to remove a glue
    or beded in action is to place the rifle in the freezer
    for 24hrs and remove placing the rifle on your lap barrel
    down use a rubber mallet to strike the barrel while holding
    the stock just off your lap. The shock and the different
    co efficient of expansion of the materials makes it break
    loose easy. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif

    The type of beding is a personal choice .I prefer the
    steel bed or accuglass gel for most jobs. But there are
    other good brands out there.

    Hope this helps
    J E CUSTOM

    [/ QUOTE ]

    Yup, sounds real familiar. All of mine that are not glued in, are pillar bedded with all voids filled with epoxy to get as much contact as possible with the barrel free-floated. I have been known to hang some heavy barrels (32" 1.250" straight tube w/o any taper) on my actions and they all work extremely well.

    James
     
  11. EddieHarren

    EddieHarren Well-Known Member

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    Catshooter, not in my shop they aren't. Haven't used acra-glass or acra-gel for years. Brownells Steel Bed is my favorite. By the way when I first learned about "glass bedding" the old timers were using Fiberglass resin and a hardener. Hence the term "glass" bedding. But different people use different products and I'm sure that is why, "They don't only make Vanilla".
     
  12. CatShooter

    CatShooter Well-Known Member

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    [ QUOTE ]
    Catshooter, not in my shop they aren't. Haven't used acra-glass or acra-gel for years. Brownells Steel Bed is my favorite. By the way when I first learned about "glass bedding" the old timers were using Fiberglass resin and a hardener. Hence the term "glass" bedding. But different people use different products and I'm sure that is why, "They don't only make Vanilla".

    [/ QUOTE ]

    DocEd...

    They are generic terms - I haven't used "accraglass" in twenty years - I also use Brownells "Steel bed" and sometimes Devcon titanium or steel.

    But epoxie is generically called glass, and visa versa, even when it doesn't have fiber glass in it - arguing about samantics is silly.

    .
     
  13. EddieHarren

    EddieHarren Well-Known Member

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    Catshooter, I agree fully. Argument, for arquments sake, should be reserved for our political leaders. Good Shootin', DocEd.
     
  14. coues7

    coues7 Well-Known Member

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    So if one has a stock that has an aluminum bedding block (say an H-s Precision).....does one still drill the aluminum block and and put pillars as well as "glass, steel, JB weld" bedding?

    I thought that the whole purpose of the aluminum bedding block was to be similar to pillars....so all you would do is to "glass...etc" bed? Correct?