Paint Job

Discussion in 'Long Range Hunting & Shooting' started by mconwa951, Apr 19, 2013.

  1. mconwa951

    mconwa951 Well-Known Member

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    Hey guys im putting together a savage 300 wsm ordered a new stock from stockades and am gonna try a do a few mods to it so i got the unfinished one on the way. I know how to paint it already just looking to see if you guys wanna post up some pics of your rigs for some inspiration for me.

    Thanks again,
    Mike
     
  2. 7mmRemMag

    7mmRemMag Well-Known Member

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    I did this last week. Choate tactical stock Remington 700 SPS SS 300 Win Mag
     

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  3. 7mmRemMag

    7mmRemMag Well-Known Member

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    Here is another
     

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  4. WildRose

    WildRose Well-Known Member

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    Here's a few.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  5. varmintH8R

    varmintH8R Well-Known Member

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    I've seen a lot of cheesy DIY paint jobs on rifles. The ones above are flat-out awesome. What's the secret (on the off chance I one day get the cajones to paint a gun)?
     
  6. Tnwhip

    Tnwhip Well-Known Member

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    [​IMG]

    Rhodesian FAL With Baby poop Camo.
     
  7. WildRose

    WildRose Well-Known Member

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    The one with the bobcat is actually my first.

    The secret is layering, no discernible "edges", no dramatic colors.

    apply your lightest color first as a base, and then lightly layer your darker colors.

    Without looking at it real close you can't see that I use a camo net that is honeycombed as a stencil for the darker colors.

    Good camo is blending with nature, not trying to stand out.
     
  8. mconwa951

    mconwa951 Well-Known Member

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    Good looking guns guys I think im gonna try some practice runs on a couple of coolers i have and maybe one of my old bolt action slug guns with plastic stock. I do have a nice airbrush i was given years ago i may try using. Anybody know where i can find regular ultra flat paint in like pint sizes. The paint stores all seem to carry latex and i think id rather use oil base for this stuff.
     
  9. youngtrout

    youngtrout Well-Known Member

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    Attached is another option. The hydroprinting. Pretty simple to do. I've been using krylon for both the base coat and my clear coat. Pic shows my rifle I built for F Class. I didn't do the one side then the other, simply all at once. I like the effect of the skulls stretching, etc. Gloss in pic but this was before about the 4th coat and a wet/dry sand to dull it some what.

    So far the solid camo patterns have be tough for me, at least the digital camp I played with, the semi transparant ones have work for me through, just takes a tub of water and a spray bottle!

    I got a roll of snakeskin today, going to put it on my 375, kind of funny too, we don't even have snakes in AK, at least that I know of
     

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  10. Shane1

    Shane1 Well-Known Member

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    The skulls are awesome, fantastic job. Where can I get the hydroprinting supplies? Does it come in a kit?
     
  11. WildRose

    WildRose Well-Known Member

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    Try Brownell's. I think you can get the Alumahyde II and maybe some others from them in liquid form.

    If you have an AB and some experience I'd say go ahead and maybe try going with duracoat.

    One I just thought of is hobby shops. There are lots of earth tone matte and flat colors for models and those paints are specifically designed to bond well with plastics.
     
  12. youngtrout

    youngtrout Well-Known Member

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    First let me say I am a total amateur,,,,, but they do sell kits. I dont think you need them. You just need film and an activator. I actually use a spray bottle with a fine mist to activate the film, a little goes a long ways. Do some google searching for hydrodipping stocks or just hydrodipping. There is a forum with guys who do it for a living. Takes me longer to fill my tub of water than the whole process actually takes, awsome for small flat parts like pistol grips, etc. The more curves and/or surfaces, gets harder, here is one closer up
     

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  13. youngtrout

    youngtrout Well-Known Member

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    If you have a airbrush, for paint you can't beat duracoat! I have a stock I painted 4 years ago, that s been to hell and back on many backcoutry hunts, yes there are areas of paint completely scratched off thanks to a pack frame, but other areas still look new. Krylon,,,,seems you have to paint every year or two. My "effect" for duracoat was a flat tan, then a splatter of sorts by turning air way down on my brush till it just kind of spit paint.

    Anothr cool effect with rattle cans is going wet on wet, tan for example, then wet with black lets say, and pull the excess off with plastic wrap,,,see below
     

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  14. lee31

    lee31 Well-Known Member

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    I just painted mine about a month ago
     

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