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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Rifles, Bullets, Barrels & Ballistics
Options for building a .308
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<blockquote data-quote="jhendri2" data-source="post: 21225" data-attributes="member: 217"><p>Matt,</p><p></p><p>On the McMillan stock issue, if you have already decided what contour you want, McMillan will usually have the pattern (if the company is well known, Krieger, Lilja, Shilen, Hart, etc.) and will inlet the channel for you. If not, I reccommend buying the Brownells barrel channel tools, a cheaper alternative to this (albeit slower) is to measure the barrel and buy a dowel rod and rap sandpaper around it and start sanding. For your trigger, if all you want to go down to, a competent gunsmith should be able to get your Remington factory trigger down to two pounds. Barrel contour will depend heavily on what weight you want your rifle. Most makers have a chart on their web sight, this may not mean alot but they also usually have the weight of the barrel listed next to it. This should give you a pretty good idea of how big the barrel is. Some things I learned when I had my first rifle built was to find out EXACTLY what is included when you have the work done. I had bought the barrel and went to the gunsmith to have it put on and assumed he would true the action at the same time and didn't, so I had to spend more money to have this done. Some people charge for marking the caliber on the barrel. Some will have separate charges for lapping the lugs and squaring the bolt face. Just some advice is to find out what is included. My two cents anyway.</p><p></p><p>On the action, definately go with a used gun and part it out. It will be much less costly. For the scope, what I tell everyone is to buy the best you can afford. Don't skimp on the scope (from the sounds of your other scope you won't).</p><p></p><p>Jim</p><p></p><p>[ 11-20-2001: Message edited by: 338Lapua ]</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="jhendri2, post: 21225, member: 217"] Matt, On the McMillan stock issue, if you have already decided what contour you want, McMillan will usually have the pattern (if the company is well known, Krieger, Lilja, Shilen, Hart, etc.) and will inlet the channel for you. If not, I reccommend buying the Brownells barrel channel tools, a cheaper alternative to this (albeit slower) is to measure the barrel and buy a dowel rod and rap sandpaper around it and start sanding. For your trigger, if all you want to go down to, a competent gunsmith should be able to get your Remington factory trigger down to two pounds. Barrel contour will depend heavily on what weight you want your rifle. Most makers have a chart on their web sight, this may not mean alot but they also usually have the weight of the barrel listed next to it. This should give you a pretty good idea of how big the barrel is. Some things I learned when I had my first rifle built was to find out EXACTLY what is included when you have the work done. I had bought the barrel and went to the gunsmith to have it put on and assumed he would true the action at the same time and didn't, so I had to spend more money to have this done. Some people charge for marking the caliber on the barrel. Some will have separate charges for lapping the lugs and squaring the bolt face. Just some advice is to find out what is included. My two cents anyway. On the action, definately go with a used gun and part it out. It will be much less costly. For the scope, what I tell everyone is to buy the best you can afford. Don't skimp on the scope (from the sounds of your other scope you won't). Jim [ 11-20-2001: Message edited by: 338Lapua ] [/QUOTE]
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