Opinions on changing laminate stock finish from gloss to satin?

fireroad

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I have a gloss finished Rem laminate stock that is just was too shiny for a field gun. I would either like to knock the finish down or respray it in a satin poly or whatevery is most appropriate. I figured I would sand it down with a scotch brite maron (very fine) then light gray (ultra fine). Figure if it's not to my standards then its already prepped to be shot with satin. Any thoughts?
 
I have a gloss finished Rem laminate stock that is just was too shiny for a field gun. I would either like to knock the finish down or respray it in a satin poly or whatevery is most appropriate. I figured I would sand it down with a scotch brite maron (very fine) then light gray (ultra fine). Figure if it's not to my standards then its already prepped to be shot with satin. Any thoughts?

Just use xxxx Fine steel wool and it will knock the shine down while smoothing the surface
of the stock without leaving sanding marks.

Then you can use some Tung oil or Beach wood Casey true oil and apply it with the steel
wool and it will produce a satin finish that will be sealed against the weather.

J E CUSTOM
 
Just use xxxx Fine steel wool and it will knock the shine down while smoothing the surface
of the stock without leaving sanding marks.

Then you can use some Tung oil or Beach wood Casey true oil and apply it with the steel
wool and it will produce a satin finish that will be sealed against the weather.

J E CUSTOM

I have a whole bag of 0000 steel wool so I will give that a try. Can I use the wool by itself (dry), or should it have something on it? I will hit a few spots with the abbrasive pad first because the current finish does have some drips and splotches that need to be knocked out. I 'm not sure I will need to hit it afterwards with tung or true oil as the factory finish is pretty thick.
 
I have a whole bag of 0000 steel wool so I will give that a try. Can I use the wool by itself (dry), or should it have something on it? I will hit a few spots with the abbrasive pad first because the current finish does have some drips and splotches that need to be knocked out. I 'm not sure I will need to hit it afterwards with tung or true oil as the factory finish is pretty thick.

If you hit it with the abrasive pad be sure and go with the grain. the pad will add
scratches that will be seen if not careful.

After you get the desired effect, a cote of tung oil will seal the bare wood and not produce
any shine if you use the xxxx steel wool to apply it with.

J E CUSTOM
 
If you hit it with the abrasive pad be sure and go with the grain. the pad will add
scratches that will be seen if not careful.

After you get the desired effect, a cote of tung oil will seal the bare wood and not produce
any shine if you use the xxxx steel wool to apply it with.

J E CUSTOM

I'm not taking the whole finish off or going down to bare wood, just knocking the shine off the to go from gloss to satin on the existing finish.
 
Just use xxxx Fine steel wool and it will knock the shine down while smoothing the surface
of the stock without leaving sanding marks.

Then you can use some Tung oil or Beach wood Casey true oil and apply it with the steel
wool and it will produce a satin finish that will be sealed against the weather.

J E CUSTOM

I tried the steel wool trick and it's not working out...looks pretty bad actually which surprised the heck out of me. I have no idea what this factory finish is but I have used steel wool on countless wood working projects with great results.

I read on another forum I belong to (I know, shame on me) and someone suggested taking it to a furniture stripper who would dip it for less then $20 (they said $5 but that seemed too cheap). I thought that would work great but I did talk to a retired cabinet maker who said if you chemical strip on a laminate it will lift the veneer of the wood and it would look like crap.

Any thoughts?
 
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