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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Long Range Scopes and Other Optics
Not enough down travel to zero scope
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<blockquote data-quote="Lefty7mmstw" data-source="post: 819886" data-attributes="member: 48043"><p>I'd actually go drink a can of coke and cut the side material out of it with a pair of tin snips making a few shims that will mate with the bottom of your bases. Stack them in one at a time until you can zero the scope with a couple of moa breathing room to spare. Then I'd put a drop of blue loctite on each of your base screws and torque properly. You won't have to work with bedding compound and it's a permanent 0$ fix. I've had to do this with a ruger 7 mag to clear a scope once (that shim went in the rings) and a win 375 because the scope was out of adjustment room once. Neither moved a bit over hundreds of rounds.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Lefty7mmstw, post: 819886, member: 48043"] I'd actually go drink a can of coke and cut the side material out of it with a pair of tin snips making a few shims that will mate with the bottom of your bases. Stack them in one at a time until you can zero the scope with a couple of moa breathing room to spare. Then I'd put a drop of blue loctite on each of your base screws and torque properly. You won't have to work with bedding compound and it's a permanent 0$ fix. I've had to do this with a ruger 7 mag to clear a scope once (that shim went in the rings) and a win 375 because the scope was out of adjustment room once. Neither moved a bit over hundreds of rounds. [/QUOTE]
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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Long Range Scopes and Other Optics
Not enough down travel to zero scope
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