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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Long Range Scopes and Other Optics
Nikon, Vortex or Huskemaw
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<blockquote data-quote="joseph" data-source="post: 452757" data-attributes="member: 19151"><p>With the FFP reticule in my PST the power makes no difference with your intended target. As the power increases the target AND the reticle increases in the same proportion.</p><p></p><p>This is what I did: <a href="http://forum.gon.com/showthread.php?t=559629&highlight=" target="_blank">Drop chart. - Georgia Outdoor News Forum</a></p><p></p><p>Vortex submitted this info into the computer program and then made the velocity match the drops that my rifle shot. Your actual drop chart that is made in the field is more important than getting them from someones computer program. My drop from my zero of 200 yds was 8+1/2 inches at 300 yds. Other computer programs said it should have been 7 inches. This would have made a big difference at longer ranges. This is VEEEERRRY important you find out what the actual drop from your zero is at longer ranges. You also need to be confident of your groups that you shoot "FEEL GOOD".</p><p>So when you measure from point of aim down to the middle of your group you get a good measurement. It was funny that I had more trouble getting a good feel of my group at 300 yds than I did at 400 yds. Anyway I finally got a good measurement at 300 & 400 yds.</p><p></p><p>Hope I have helped,</p><p></p><p>joseph</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="joseph, post: 452757, member: 19151"] With the FFP reticule in my PST the power makes no difference with your intended target. As the power increases the target AND the reticle increases in the same proportion. This is what I did: [url=http://forum.gon.com/showthread.php?t=559629&highlight=]Drop chart. - Georgia Outdoor News Forum[/url] Vortex submitted this info into the computer program and then made the velocity match the drops that my rifle shot. Your actual drop chart that is made in the field is more important than getting them from someones computer program. My drop from my zero of 200 yds was 8+1/2 inches at 300 yds. Other computer programs said it should have been 7 inches. This would have made a big difference at longer ranges. This is VEEEERRRY important you find out what the actual drop from your zero is at longer ranges. You also need to be confident of your groups that you shoot "FEEL GOOD". So when you measure from point of aim down to the middle of your group you get a good measurement. It was funny that I had more trouble getting a good feel of my group at 300 yds than I did at 400 yds. Anyway I finally got a good measurement at 300 & 400 yds. Hope I have helped, joseph [/QUOTE]
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Long Range Scopes and Other Optics
Nikon, Vortex or Huskemaw
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