Nikon Mil dot or Burris Ballistic Plex?

sambo3006

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I am looking to get a scope with some sort of hash marks on the reticle for shooting out to 500-600 yards. I have decided that I would rather not dial in the yardage, as I don't plan to shoot over 600 yards. I would rather hold over using reference points. Primary use would be for my 338 RUM and my 7STW for elk and deer. I have a rangefinder, and I plan to verify my trajectory by shooting.
I have narrowed my search down based on what I can afford to the Nikon Buckmasters 4.5-14 side focus mildot and the Burris 4.5-14 Ballistic Plex AO. While the Ballistic Plex isn't as precise as mils, the stadia wires subtend less of the field of view than mildots. Does it really matter which one I use since I won't be shooting extreme range anyway?
Both seem to be bright and eye relief is adequate on both. Let me know what you guys think.
 
I would choose the Burris fro the balistic plex because thats what it was desgined from. the Mil-Dot system is just that a system for measuring objects to estimate range. Yes they can be used as hlod over points but I woulden't trust them past about 400yds and with a STW that makes it kinda pointles.
The Burris system was desgined as a set of hold over points and I assume that they will be alot closer to an even set of yardage marks than mils would be
 
I'm a fan of the Burris line--I've never had problems with them, and I really do like the ballistic mil-dot and ballistic plex reticles...I had a black diamond 4-16 ballistic mil-dot on my .308 warbird that worked great out to 600yds, and the 3-9 fullfield II that's on my 300RUM works great to 500yds. I sight in for roughly 300yds, and the first hash mark down is for 400, 2nd for 500...and that's all I've stretched it out to. Admittedly, I will be looking to upgrade my optics as I upgrade my gun, but that won't be for a while, especially since my LSS 300RUM shoots great as a sporter, and the 3-9 scope works well for my applications (50yds-500yds). Best of luck with the decision!
 
For the money it's darn hard to beat the Burris. I like mine alot. There are computer programs that will help you "forecast" your hitting points with different ammo because the moa of the crossmarks is published. This is only a reference of course and practice should happen after the computer forecast!!
 
I agree with the above posts-- the Ball. Plex is a little easier to apply as a ballistic reticle since that's what it is. Applying a ranging reticle as a ballistic reticle is accurate also but takes a little more work to figure the zeros and interpolation with. One big advantage to a reticle that has multiple stadia along the horizontal axis though is that windage is easier to apply if you're so inclined.
 
[ QUOTE ]
the Mil-Dot system is just that a system for measuring objects to estimate range. Yes they can be used as hlod over points but I woulden't trust them past about 400yds ,<snip>
The Burris system was desgined as a set of hold over points and <snip> they will be alot closer to an even set of yardage marks than mils would be

[/ QUOTE ]

JD,
I don't understand the above explanation? I'm shying away from any ballistic plex reticle for the same reason you are shying away from the mil dot?

It must be a left/right brain thing.

The only thing I would like to see added to a mil dot retical is a 1/2 Mil hash mark. Discerning .1 mil is pretty straight forward for .1, .2 and .8 and .9 for me as the mil dot is 0.1 mil from center to edge. Its the tenths around the 1/2 mil mark that are less discernable for me. The MP-8 reticle is nearly perfect to my way of thinking.

Also, reticle in the first focal plane (FFP) is a must IMO. The size of the dot just helps hone things in a little better rather than covering the target.

Also, ranging and mil dot reticles in the second focal plane leave a bit to be desired as it is difficult to ensure the power is set 'exactly' to the calibrated power.

Does Burris make any FFP reticles or is there anyone that makes these modifications as Premier used to for Leuy's??

BTW, If I wouldn't spend so many $ on ADL furniture I could afford a good scope. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif
 
I hear ya those ADL trigger guards are a killer on the wallet.

What I was saying was that the mil-dots are set a specific point so that your able to bracket objects in between them and such to get a better estimate on the range. trying to use the dots as an aiming point is kinda rough especialy on smaller targets at longer range.
The Balistic plex on the other hand was setup and the lines are spaced so that they will be close to wanted yardage marks , granted if your wanting 50yd markers for a 7STW or 200yd markers for a 308 then it'll probably be kind frustrating. I believe that Burris has a deal on their web site that will better explain and give you a ball park idea of where the cross marks will be in relation to your range.

I haven't used the Burris reticle but have used the Swarovski TDS and it works well.
 
I have taken the Leupold Boone and Crocket and put it on a 300 Hart (180 gr at 3200 fps) all the way to 860 yards on the hash marks and it has the 10 mph wind built in.

My brothers gun and he took 4 deer last year out to 650 with no adjusting the knobs.

simple and works well.

BH
 
Thanks for the input guys. I am going to go with the Burris 4.5-14 ballistic plex. It should be easier to use once I establish the yardages for the hashmarks for my particular load.
My elk shooting should be from a fixed position on a canyon rim aiming at undisturbed elk in front of me, and I wouldn't feel comfortable shooting past 600 yards or so anyway.
The price for these scopes is bargain basement right now--I think because people are spitting up the scope/spotting scope combos.
 
I have a Nikon and 3 Swarosky with TDS-4.
I have tree svarovsky on tree guns, a 7 rem.mag, a 243 and a 308 because they works well, but:
you may use your mil dot as a ballistic reticle.
1: you must know the fps of your round at the muzzle
2: you must know your ballistic coefficient
3: you must use a ballistic program as Exball: it has a function that can calculate at what bullet drop correspond every dot of your mil dot ( out to 650 yards i remeber )and it is very accurate ( I shooted a daino out to 500 yard with my Sauer 202 243Win )
4: you must write it on a label and put it on your stock and read it

and Nikon is very bright..

Lorenzo
 
BountyHunter, What yardage did you use for zero on the 30 Hart? Do you have knobs on also? I am looking to put a 4.5x14 Leupy w/ BC on my 300 WM that Hart built, that gets 3170 w/ 180's and your setup seems to be real close. Thanks. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 
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