nickel or normal brass

Discussion in 'Reloading' started by Wlhofer, Aug 8, 2013.

  1. Wlhofer

    Wlhofer Well-Known Member

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    any inputs on nickel or normal brass
    Does one have more reloads, is one harder on dies and to work with
    thanx guys and Gals
     
  2. g0rd0

    g0rd0 Well-Known Member

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    if you neck size only I don't see a difference. The nickel plated stuff is harder but, it sure looks good.
    Pistol brass and things like 444 marlin no diff but, I will stick to just brass.
    Here is another question, can you anneal plated brass?:rolleyes:
     

  3. MudRunner2005

    MudRunner2005 Well-Known Member

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    I use some of each... Mostly regular brass though.

    I neck-size, and have seen no issues. The nickle-plated seems to last a little longer without showing signs of wear, but that could just be because of the bright nickel plating...

    Other than the plating and color, I have no idea what the main differences would be.
     
  4. Nimrodmar10

    Nimrodmar10 Well-Known Member

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    One problem with it is case length trimming. You have to break the nickle coating, which is hard, and it will dull your cutters. Another problem it in full length sizing. Lube it very well or it will stick in the die. Large cases take a lot of effort to size also. I stay away from it.
     
  5. Gus McCrae

    Gus McCrae Well-Known Member

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    Very true.

    I've got a bunch a nickle plated brass and it's no fun to full length size...you have to lube the crap out of it.
     
  6. varmintH8R

    varmintH8R Well-Known Member

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    I had a box of factory nickel 22-250. I sized exactly 1 and pitched the rest out. Not for me. It doesn't "feel" right in the die - I had to really wrench on it.
     
  7. Greyfox

    Greyfox Well-Known Member

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    I have worked with both for rifle and pistol, and decided years ago to avoid the use of nickle plated brass when reloading, particularly with rifle casings. I have found that case separation and case splitting is more likely and occurs sooner with nickel cases, proper annealing is difficult, if not impossible, and that the harder surface of the nickel can scratch the dye surfaces.IMO.
     
  8. Wlhofer

    Wlhofer Well-Known Member

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    Thanx for all your input I was loading for a 22-250 and I don't like that nickel brass I sure agree with you guys . Wanted to know if it was worth the pain
     
  9. Reloader222

    Reloader222 Well-Known Member

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    I have size Winchester nickle plated cases in .270Win calibre in Hornady and Lyman FL dies and must agree this was an effort. Ended up in the end with dents below the shoulders in nearly 40% of the cases. The squeese was too much. I can never throw away cases. So I bumped out the dents with a minimum load and 110gr Sierra Pro Hunter Bullets. I did not want to use my Redding die set for the reason that it has no vent hole on the sholder and I was affraid of damaging it. So I went to buy a FL Foster die..... I used Redding Wax as with all the other dies above and have also lubed the insides of the necks by dipping the cases in the wax and then wiping off the excess wax on the outside. INCREDIBLE FOSTER!!, NO DENTS and it SIZE WITH EASE!!! I know I would only get a few reloads from the nickle plated cases before they start to give problems, but at least I have a few uses from the 80 cases. To further prolong the usage of these case I will only necksize them in future.