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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
Newbie dumb question
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<blockquote data-quote="Varmint Hunter" data-source="post: 362191" data-attributes="member: 313"><p>It is (potentially) due to different brass, primers, bullets and the gun or test barrel used to fire the load. To say nothing about the powder lot which was different, cartridge oal likely being different, etc. Any combination of these variables could cause different pressure and velocity results when comparing one manual against the other.</p><p></p><p>Use the starting load from any of the manuals and work up from there. It is usually impossible to assemble a handload that is identical to a factory load because the factory ammo often uses prioritary powder that is unavailable to handloaders and does not publish their factory ammo make-up even if they used available components.</p><p></p><p>Working up a handload that is accurate in your rifle is more important than trying to match any particular factory ammo.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Varmint Hunter, post: 362191, member: 313"] It is (potentially) due to different brass, primers, bullets and the gun or test barrel used to fire the load. To say nothing about the powder lot which was different, cartridge oal likely being different, etc. Any combination of these variables could cause different pressure and velocity results when comparing one manual against the other. Use the starting load from any of the manuals and work up from there. It is usually impossible to assemble a handload that is identical to a factory load because the factory ammo often uses prioritary powder that is unavailable to handloaders and does not publish their factory ammo make-up even if they used available components. Working up a handload that is accurate in your rifle is more important than trying to match any particular factory ammo. [/QUOTE]
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