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<blockquote data-quote="AZShooter" data-source="post: 871840" data-attributes="member: 5219"><p>Howdy Big Mike,</p><p></p><p>I think you should start with a FL sizing die first. Or if you want to spend more money you can get something like a Redding S bushing die and a body die to separate the functions of a FL die for more attention to detail. Most beginners are better served with a FL/seater die set. </p><p></p><p>As for usage, ignore the instructions in the RCBS box on how to use the RCBS die. Their version will work but will overwork the brass causing problems. </p><p></p><p>I just wrote the how to on another thread and will copy and paste here:</p><p></p><p>Proper sizing with a FL die is best described as partial FL sizing. It will extend brass life and IMO is the proper way to resize brass. </p><p></p><p>I always wondered why RCBS would have the following instructions for their FL dies: </p><p></p><p>"Screw the sizer die into the press until the die touches the shell holder when the shell holder is brought up to the top of the press stroke. Be sure all play is removed from the press leverage system. To do this, adjust the die as above, lower the shell holder and set the die 1/8 to ¼ turn further down so that the press cams over center. Set the large lock nut and you are ready to size. "</p><p></p><p>This is wrong unless you have a very tight headspaced chamber. To do so will work the brass and will cause excessive stretching of the case requiring more frequent trimming and more importantly eventually cause case head separation.</p><p></p><p>I feel the correct way to resize brass is to size enough so the shoulder/body taper is slightly reduced to fit the chamber with little or no bolt closure resistance. This is what we reloaders call partial full length sizing. To do this the die will be turned down approximately a 1/8 inch space between the shell holder and die. Size a piece of fired brass, wipe it off and see how it fits the chamber. Continue turning the die towards the shell holder in small increments till you get the fit you desire. Once you have this determined you can set the lock ring for future use. I prefer to use feeler gauges to determine the gap and throw them into the die case for the future. In my experience lock rings don't always stay locked so I adopted the feeler gauge approach. You can size less so there is some resistance it is up to you. Personally I prefer no resistance especially with a hunting rifle. </p><p></p><p>If you want to neck size only, get a good bushing die that only sizes the necks. You can get away with no body/shoulder sizing for a few firings then the brass will get too tight and you will have to partial resize the brass anyway. The body die is for sizing the shoulder/body only. </p><p></p><p>Another important thing to do when sizing brass is to lube the case body. I like imperial sizing wax. A tiny bit on my fingers, rubbed onto the body will make sizing easy. Don't put lube on shoulders or necks, just the body. </p><p></p><p>Unfortunately not every instructional section in a Loading manual or instructions that come with the dies explain how to use the dies properly. Hope this helps. I like to help beginners as do others that post here. If you have more detailed questions all you have to do is ask. </p><p></p><p>Ross</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="AZShooter, post: 871840, member: 5219"] Howdy Big Mike, I think you should start with a FL sizing die first. Or if you want to spend more money you can get something like a Redding S bushing die and a body die to separate the functions of a FL die for more attention to detail. Most beginners are better served with a FL/seater die set. As for usage, ignore the instructions in the RCBS box on how to use the RCBS die. Their version will work but will overwork the brass causing problems. I just wrote the how to on another thread and will copy and paste here: Proper sizing with a FL die is best described as partial FL sizing. It will extend brass life and IMO is the proper way to resize brass. I always wondered why RCBS would have the following instructions for their FL dies: "Screw the sizer die into the press until the die touches the shell holder when the shell holder is brought up to the top of the press stroke. Be sure all play is removed from the press leverage system. To do this, adjust the die as above, lower the shell holder and set the die 1/8 to ¼ turn further down so that the press cams over center. Set the large lock nut and you are ready to size. " This is wrong unless you have a very tight headspaced chamber. To do so will work the brass and will cause excessive stretching of the case requiring more frequent trimming and more importantly eventually cause case head separation. I feel the correct way to resize brass is to size enough so the shoulder/body taper is slightly reduced to fit the chamber with little or no bolt closure resistance. This is what we reloaders call partial full length sizing. To do this the die will be turned down approximately a 1/8 inch space between the shell holder and die. Size a piece of fired brass, wipe it off and see how it fits the chamber. Continue turning the die towards the shell holder in small increments till you get the fit you desire. Once you have this determined you can set the lock ring for future use. I prefer to use feeler gauges to determine the gap and throw them into the die case for the future. In my experience lock rings don't always stay locked so I adopted the feeler gauge approach. You can size less so there is some resistance it is up to you. Personally I prefer no resistance especially with a hunting rifle. If you want to neck size only, get a good bushing die that only sizes the necks. You can get away with no body/shoulder sizing for a few firings then the brass will get too tight and you will have to partial resize the brass anyway. The body die is for sizing the shoulder/body only. Another important thing to do when sizing brass is to lube the case body. I like imperial sizing wax. A tiny bit on my fingers, rubbed onto the body will make sizing easy. Don't put lube on shoulders or necks, just the body. Unfortunately not every instructional section in a Loading manual or instructions that come with the dies explain how to use the dies properly. Hope this helps. I like to help beginners as do others that post here. If you have more detailed questions all you have to do is ask. Ross [/QUOTE]
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