New scope tracking problems

[Dalbo]

Hey there I'm new to this site and long range shooting. I just purchased a Weatherby Vanguard in 257 Weatherby Mag for $389. I know the old addage, "you get what you pay for", but I mounted an inexpensive BSA 4-16x40 mil-dot scope on it. My reasoning being as a college student working as an intern at the AZ Game and Fish Dept. I don't make a bunch of money. Also I did not want to spend 3-4 hundred dollars on a mil-dot scope and find out I didn't like it.

I took it to the range yesterday and the gun shot great, ave group size was just under an inch at 100 yds. The problem was the scope would not track properly when I adjusted my windage and elevation (1/8 clicks). My first group was 1" left of POA(point of aim), I adjusted 8 clicks right and it shot into the same spot. I added another 8 clicks right and it shot 2" right of POA. I repeated this process a few more times but could not get my shots to settle on target before the range closed.

Once I got home I backed off the set screws from the turrets and set them to the zero positions and retightened the screws. From there I adjusted the windage and elevation 1moa at a time. Up and right to 5moa then down and left 5moa. I did this in the hopes that the internals would loosen up, and would not stick anymore. I still need to head back to the range and determine if this helped at all. Have any of you had similar problems or had any luck getting a scope to become "unsticky"? I hope to get this sorted out before my Kaibab deer hunt in October.

Thanks for your help,

Dave gun)​

 

[Ridge Runner]

only advise I have is this, say you wanna go 1MOA then move it 2 MOA then back 1, I do this with all my turret scopes, helps even the spring tension.
RR

 

[Gene]

I have had several BSA scopes, all junk. One more thing to try - run the adjustments back and forth until they stop each direction. Then re-set to where you started. It sounds to me as though the erector tube springs are not functioning as they should. If this does not work, throw it away and buy a better scope.

 

[petenz]

Try giving the scope tube a firmish tap with something after adjusting but before shooting

 

[MontanaRifleman]

The Vanguards are made by Howa and Howa makes good solid rifles. Probably the best value for the dollar out there. As for the scope, I once had a cheap Bushnell on my 7mm Rem Mag and it wasn't too long before my shots were all over the place. Got a good Weaver and that fixed the problem. IMHO cheap scopes are not worth one cent. It would be better to go with iron sights and save for a descent scope. I know that doesn't help your immediate situation but maybe someone here can help you get through this hunting season... or, maybe you could return it and find a good used scope. EBay is a good place to look for good used scopes and you might find one in this forum.

Hope you get it worked out.

 

[royinidaho]

MontanaRifleman said it best with the suggestion that the seller stand behind the scope.

Talk with him but be cautious. He'll take advantage of every/any opportunity to make a $.

 

[Bravo 4]

Try doing what the others have said, over adjust -then back, tap the knobs after adjusting. Heck, John Burns does both to his Leupold in the video I have from him. Basically what it boils down to is the erector system isn't moving like it should when you make an adjustment. That happens with cheap scopes and it isn't the end of the world if that is all you have. What you should do, if you can't fork out the money for a better quality scope, is once you get it sighted use the mil reticle. If you don't know how to use a mil reticle don't sweat it. The dots will be "on" at different ranges with different power settings...just make sure the scope holds zero, and through the entire power range...you need to go out and shoot it to find out where its hitting. Or, get a target with inch increments and set it up at 100yards. Change the power ring and note how many inches apart the dots are, or you can do it in moa, or you can find where your the correct power setting for the scope to mil properly. The point is don't sweat over having a cheap scope, just learn to use what'cha got.

 

[Brocksdad]

The fact of the matter is more animals are killed per year with bubble wrapped scopes than higher end scopes. Most individuals on these forums are a bit more cautious about there purchases. That still doesn't change the fact that many 29.99 Tascos kill many deer.

I'm pretty sure once you get your scope to hold zero, it will hold well.

In the meantime, start saving your pennies so you can purchase something in the future that will give you full confidence. Confidence that if you were going to Alaska on a dream hunt, what you have for a rifle scope combination will withstand the flights and rugged weather and hunting.

Have Fun

Rob

 

[GSoD]

I'm pretty new to this stuff so I could be wrong, but could it be everything is functioning as should be?

If its shooting 1" groups, and he moves it over 1" isn't it possible the second shot would hit in the same spot because it has moved within the margin of error?

Only advice I would give is to shoot a box with your scope (shoot it, move down four inches, shoot it, move right four inches, shoot it, move up four inches, shoot it, move left four inches and shoot). Should tell if how well your scope tracks.

Other than that I would recommend against chasing individual shots and instead shooting 3 shot or so groups and then making adjustments based on the grouping.

Again, I'm new at this and can be wrong on all counts.

 

[Dalbo]

Hey guys thanks for all your input. I'm going to stick with the mil-dot set up on this rifle but will change the scope when I can afford to. In the mean time I'll head back to the range and try to get it zeroed properly. I feel comfortable using the dots for W&E as long wind is not blowing too hard past 200 yards. I don't have any confidence in dialing up with this scope, obviously.

I used Norma's ballistic program to set up a W&E chart for the load I plan to hunt with (100g Barnes TSX @ 3550fps). I converted inches to MOA, clicks, and Mills on the chart out to 500yds. I just need to confirm them at the range. The BSA scope had the mil-dots calibrated for the 10x setting.

I've been reading up on how to use the dots and practacing on the mildot.com webpage. It has a cool program where you have to estimate the range of targets using mills as well as estimating wind values. The free version has ten stations, and I'm considering buying the full version for $50 bucks. If you get bored you may want to check it out, it's pretty challenging with the .50 cal out past 1500yds.

I have a 3-9x40 Nikon Buckmaster on my 30-06 and I like it alot. I was wondering if any of you have experience with their 4-16x40 mil-dot scope. It's priced at $289, or would you have any recomendations for a MD scope in the 200-300 price range.

Thanks agian,

Dave.

 

[ScottBerish]

Hey guys thanks for all your input. I'm going to stick with the mil-dot set up on this rifle but will change the scope when I can afford to. In the mean time I'll head back to the range and try to get it zeroed properly. I feel comfortable using the dots for W&E as long wind is not blowing too hard past 200 yards. I don't have any confidence in dialing up with this scope, obviously.

I used Norma's ballistic program to set up a W&E chart for the load I plan to hunt with (100g Barnes TSX @ 3550fps). I converted inches to MOA, clicks, and Mills on the chart out to 500yds. I just need to confirm them at the range. The BSA scope had the mil-dots calibrated for the 10x setting.

I've been reading up on how to use the dots and practacing on the mildot.com webpage. It has a cool program where you have to estimate the range of targets using mills as well as estimating wind values. The free version has ten stations, and I'm considering buying the full version for $50 bucks. If you get bored you may want to check it out, it's pretty challenging with the .50 cal out past 1500yds.

I have a 3-9x40 Nikon Buckmaster on my 30-06 and I like it alot. I was wondering if any of you have experience with their 4-16x40 mil-dot scope. It's priced at $289, or would you have any recomendations for a MD scope in the 200-300 price range.

Thanks agian,

Dave.

Hi Dave,

That has proven to be a popular scope and we have one left in stock for $269 shipped. I wouldn't trust a BSA for any shot more than 200 yards on game, but that's just me.

The Vortex Crossfire 6-24x50 mildot is $150 but it has a AO and is quite big for a 1-inch tube. However, it is a huge upgrade over the BSA.

Let me know if we can be of assistance.

Scott

 

[Brocksdad]

I feel both of Scott"s choices are stellar in performance in comparison to the BSA. Either scope would be money well spent. I've spent quite a bit of time with Vortex line of scopes and have been very impressed.

Have Fun

Rob

 

[Mysticplayer]

Consider used for the best value for your limited funds. A used Bushnell Scopechief circa the 80's were made in Japan, have superb optics and track well. I bet you can find them at a gun show for $50 for a fixed 4X or 6X. I would shy away from the variables as they were still sorting out the mag change POI thing.

Bausch&Lomb Balvars are even better but you might have to dig deep for an extra $50 to 100. Again fixed powers unless it is an Elite 4000. These I have used and know work great.

Of course, there are VXIII/M8 Leupolds. A fixed 6X would like be in the $200ish range used. A great scope.

For new, the Burris Fullfield seems to do very well for MANY owners. Ebay should be under $200 new. Nikon Buckmasters and Elite 3200's are superb buys for a few dollars more.

A scope you don't trust or doesn't hold zero is the most expensive scope you can buy.

There are so many alternatives for your money that it doesn't pay to penny pinch.

Jerry