New rifle modification suggestions

Discussion in 'Rifles, Bullets, Barrels & Ballistics' started by Shooter Fred, Feb 24, 2011.

  1. Shooter Fred

    Shooter Fred Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    78
    Joined:
    Feb 24, 2011
    Hello all,

    I am a new poster to this site but have been spying for quite some time. I really think most people on this site have some very good opinions.

    I was wondering if everyone could make a few suggestions on what is needed to make my brand new Remington Sendero SF II 300 RUM a long range shooter as I am new to this type of shooting. I already have a seekins 20 moa rail and rings along with the new viper pst ffp 4-16 scope by vortex.

    I am open to all suggestions but don't want to spend over 500-600 on the changes. If it helps, I think I will be reloading my own ammo as I have been told this is one of the best things I can do to improve the accuracy of the gun.

    Thanks for your help!

    -Fred
     
  2. Camshaft

    Camshaft Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    554
    Joined:
    Jun 14, 2010
    I would definitely spend the money on reloading equipment and a good reloading manual. Do lots of reading before you dive in. Reloading can be dangerous if you don't know what you are doing.
     

  3. tjseibold

    tjseibold New Member

    Messages:
    3
    Joined:
    Feb 20, 2011
    I have the same rifle you do. Mine is top off with a vortec Razor. I put a break on and a new jewell trigger but your rifle might have the self adjusting Mark X trigger. Mine did not have the mark X trigger because of the year i bought it.The break made a big different in shooting it. recoil is down about 50%. It is fun to shoot now but loud.
     
  4. backwoods83

    backwoods83 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,206
    Joined:
    Jan 8, 2011
    You should get the action fully glass bedded (yes I know it has an aluminum block) with a lot of bedding around the recoil lug, second a Vias or equal muzzle brake with atleast 5/8 threads, 1/2" is to small for a 30 cal, lastly xmark trigger or not put a jewell on it unless you can safely get the trigger down to 24ozs or so which is unlikely. Reloading is definently a plus. Good luck!
     
  5. Shooter Fred

    Shooter Fred Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    78
    Joined:
    Feb 24, 2011
    Thank you all...I appreciate the recommendations.

    I am looking at a muzzle break, trigger work and bedding the action. What does it mean to lap locking lugs?

    Any other suggestions are welcome. Thanks again!

    -Fred
     
  6. backwoods83

    backwoods83 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,206
    Joined:
    Jan 8, 2011
    Lapping the lugs simply means making them have even contact on both lugs can easily be checked with marking compound or lipstick but I do not recommend a newbie trying it, no offense to you.
     
  7. Shooter Fred

    Shooter Fred Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    78
    Joined:
    Feb 24, 2011
    No offense taken whatsoever!

    The reason I ask is I have seen it offered on a few gunsmiths "accuracy package".

    Here is are a couple examples of "accuracy packages" I am thinking about going with. Any suggestions which one would be more appropriate?

    Option 1:
    • Timiney Trigger
    • Pillar Bedded Stock
    • Recrown barrel
    • Lapped Scope Rings
    • Light Firing Pin and Spring
    • Check Head Spacing
    *
    Option 2:
    -Re-crown
    -Adjust Trigger
    -Lap Locking Lug
    -Clean and Inspect Rifle
    -Epoxy Bed Action and Free Float Barrel
    -Remount Scope, Rings, and Bases
    -Abrasive Lap Scope Rings

    Option 1 is about $75 more than option 2.

    In addition to a muzzle break I was thinking of adding an adjustable cheek piece and an extended magazine box for my reloaded rounds.

    Sorry for all the questions, I am just a bit overwhelmed with options and trying to pick the right option.

    Thank you!

    -Fred
     
  8. backwoods83

    backwoods83 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,206
    Joined:
    Jan 8, 2011
    Option 2 seems to be the better deal, take that and add a Timney or Jewell trigger, make sure that it is recrowned with an indicated (aka 11* target crown) after its threaded for a muzzle brake, then the action must be modified in front of the trigger to use a Wyatts extended box mag. Got any specific ?s PM me.
     
  9. ICANHITHIMMAN

    ICANHITHIMMAN Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    4,380
    Joined:
    Jan 31, 2008
    Go shoot it, might not need a thing. Check torq on everything before you do load work up. If it were my rig I would tune trigger, lapp the lugs, instal wayatts mag box, skim bed action and instal muzzle brake. Re check and locktight everthing if I had not done it myself.
     
  10. Shooter Fred

    Shooter Fred Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    78
    Joined:
    Feb 24, 2011
    That's a great point...I tend to get a bit ahead of myself. Shooting it prior to having all this work done may be the best thing. Seems like a common sense thing to do but honestly had not thought of that...lightbulblightbulblightbulb

    I guess I just like to keep up with the Jones's...and there are a lot of "Jones's" on this forum!

    Thanks again
     
  11. eddybo

    eddybo Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,651
    Joined:
    Jan 5, 2007
    Take thee gun to a any decent gun smith, have him check the bedding and adjust the trigger, work up a load, and shoot. Buy more loading componants with the money you would have spent on mods.
     
  12. Scott300RUM

    Scott300RUM Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    62
    Joined:
    Jan 28, 2011
    I just bought the same gun, SF 1 model though, and it's currently at the smith getting finished up right now. He's blueprinting the action, truing the bolt face and lugs, replacing the j-lock (you may or may not have), bedding the action, squaring the threads in the action, taking the barrel in two turns, trigger work to get it to 2.5 lbs., and holland radial brake.

    Sorry if that jumped around a bit. I never shot mine, it went right to my smith's. I just know that I want the most precision possible, and the 700 actions don't come from the factory as true as they can possibly be (not saying they aren't good for most hunting applications, but they can always be improved). As for the cheek piece, google 'Karsten's cheek piece'. They have 3 versions to choose from and are cheaper than any other option. I just received mine in the mail, and I couldn't ask for anything more (well, maybe a McMillan A3-5 adj, are you listening santa).

    And I agree with everyone on good reloading components, a good cheap way to get started is the rcbs rock chucker kit, however, there are many to choose from.

    Good Luck, Scott
     
  13. Shooter Fred

    Shooter Fred Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    78
    Joined:
    Feb 24, 2011
    Thanks for the suggestions...I have decided upon the following:

    trigger work (or new trigger)
    bedding
    muzzle brake (which inlcudes the new crown)

    maybe cheek piece...not sure on that one yet...I hate to drill through the stock of my gun, but if its worth it I may consider it

    Lastly, reloading

    Thanks again
     
  14. MontanaRifleman

    MontanaRifleman Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    6,068
    Joined:
    May 21, 2008
    As I was reading through this thread I thought the same thing. How is it shooting now? Does it need accurizig?

    Fred, I got a used Sendero 300 Rum (the original model) a couple of years ago and it's a great shooter, .5 MOA out to 600 yds. Did nothing with it except tuned the trigger myself. Load work is important, but these rifles usually shoot anything well and some loads better than others. Last year I skim bedded it, but haven't shot it since.

    My advise is tune the trigger so it breaks the way you like it and get it skim bedded. Not sure about the new Rem triggers, but the old ones were pretty good when tuned well. If you want to go all out, get a Jewel or Timney. If you have a problem with the recoil, then get a good brake on it, otherwise why bother? It will make it really loud and if you touch it off in the field without ear protection, it will be painful. Other than that you shouln't really need anything done until the barrel burns out. At that time, get the action trued and put on a good match grade barrrel and consider a bigger recoil lug.

    Good shooting,

    -Mark