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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
New guy. PLEASE help me here. Thanks
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<blockquote data-quote="kcebcj" data-source="post: 575898" data-attributes="member: 10391"><p>First off you need to get some tools. The RCBS Precision Mic works pretty good for what your trying to do but there are others.</p><p> </p><p> For now though take a fired unprimed case and cut four slits down the neck to where the shoulder starts. Clean up the saw cuts with some fine sandpaper. By hand insert a fresh bullet into the brass. If it's really easy remove the bullet and carefully squeeze the four tabs in just a bit. You want the bullet tight enough that it's difficult to pull out with your fingers.</p><p> </p><p> Once you have that insert the bullet leaving it out so it will contact the lands and chamber it. Remove it carefully. Repeat that until you're comfortable that you have a accurate number at the lands. Instead of using a sharpie smoke the bullet with a match each time so you can see the marks and it gives you a pretty good idea what going on especially if the bullet slips when ejecting it.</p><p> </p><p> If you don't have the tools to measure your test setup at the lands you can measure the OAL with a dial caliper.</p><p> </p><p> If this is a hunting rifle your max length has to fit the mag box or you have a single shot so start there. Get them as long as you can to start because future seating adjustments will only shorten them.</p><p> </p><p> Against or into the lands will create the most pressure. As you move away the pressure lessons. When working up a load and have the seating depth you want to start with a couple grains minimum below the book high and work up in half grain increments checking each for signs of pressure. If you have access to a chronograph use it as you work up and watch the fps. Where you stop is up to you but I personally don't like to exceed the book high for a hunting rifle that will be used during big temperature swings and such. If you're inexperienced don't exceed the book max!</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="kcebcj, post: 575898, member: 10391"] First off you need to get some tools. The RCBS Precision Mic works pretty good for what your trying to do but there are others. For now though take a fired unprimed case and cut four slits down the neck to where the shoulder starts. Clean up the saw cuts with some fine sandpaper. By hand insert a fresh bullet into the brass. If it's really easy remove the bullet and carefully squeeze the four tabs in just a bit. You want the bullet tight enough that it's difficult to pull out with your fingers. Once you have that insert the bullet leaving it out so it will contact the lands and chamber it. Remove it carefully. Repeat that until you're comfortable that you have a accurate number at the lands. Instead of using a sharpie smoke the bullet with a match each time so you can see the marks and it gives you a pretty good idea what going on especially if the bullet slips when ejecting it. If you don't have the tools to measure your test setup at the lands you can measure the OAL with a dial caliper. If this is a hunting rifle your max length has to fit the mag box or you have a single shot so start there. Get them as long as you can to start because future seating adjustments will only shorten them. Against or into the lands will create the most pressure. As you move away the pressure lessons. When working up a load and have the seating depth you want to start with a couple grains minimum below the book high and work up in half grain increments checking each for signs of pressure. If you have access to a chronograph use it as you work up and watch the fps. Where you stop is up to you but I personally don't like to exceed the book high for a hunting rifle that will be used during big temperature swings and such. If you're inexperienced don't exceed the book max! [/QUOTE]
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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
New guy. PLEASE help me here. Thanks
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