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The Basics, Starting Out
New guy loosing his mind from load data
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<blockquote data-quote="SansSouci" data-source="post: 1235419" data-attributes="member: 84520"><p>I hear ya, brother. I was in the same boat going down the same non-navigable, tortuous, river of confusion and expense. Muddying the river's waters were introductions of new powder that nuanced a cartridge's performance; well, at least that's how reloading component manufacturers sell it to us. Keep in mind that fishing tackle intent is to catch fisherman. Manufacturers want to separate us from our $$$.</p><p></p><p>I'm a hunter, not a target shooter. So my conclusions are based upon killing big game.</p><p></p><p>My two primary cartridges are .270 Win and 7MM Rem Mag. </p><p></p><p>There are infinite loading combinations for each of these cartridges: brass, primers, powder, and bullets. </p><p></p><p>I've figured out that within reason, accuracy is more important than velocity. A couple hundred FPS ain't gonna affect a bullet's destruction of vital organs. </p><p></p><p>A 400 yard shot is rare. 200 yard shots are far more common, at least they are where I hunt. However, the exception is I've shot two big game animals at distances that have at least double the 200 yard norm. But I never allow an exception modify the rule. </p><p></p><p>Figure out most accurate bullets for the game you intend to hunt, assuming you're a hunter. The same reasoning will hold true for target shooting. I've produced very tiny groups with Sierra GameKing bullets (for deer), and very good groups using Partitions for elk. But I've bought a few boxes of AccuBonds. The unknown factor is whether Accubonds equal the legacy of Partitions. </p><p></p><p>Federal match primers seem to be the gold standard. But I'm sure that others will work just as well.</p><p></p><p>I've used just about all brands of brass. I used to use W-W exclusively. However, W-W quality seems to be less than what it once was. I've since gone with Norma brass. A hundred of each ought to last me a lifetime of hunting.</p><p></p><p>Powder is the irascible variable. H-4831 still works as advertised. I've gotten very tiny groups with IMR-4350. RL-19 & RL-22 might have both beaten in accuracy and velocity. While I've never tried it, IMR-7828 has a huge following. </p><p></p><p>So, here's my advice: start with components that ought to work in your rifles. The best place to start here is reading what shooters of your cartridges have written about various powders. I use loading manuals as reference only. They are not definitive. No one hunts in laboratories. I give much more weight to shooters who have actually fired cartridges in the field and on ranges. If a hunter were to tell me that 62 grains of RL-22 in a .270 Win with 130 grain bullet produces dangerous pressure, I'd stay away from that load. If another hunter writes that 58 grains of RL-22 in a .270 Win gives decent velocity and incredible accuracy, I'd be all over trying that load.</p><p></p><p>Put together five loads of powder charges, increasing by .5 grain. This could take a lot of time, which is why I've researched the heck outta hand loading before I've sunk money on components. For instance, considering the .270 Win, the gold standard load is 60 grains of H-4831 and a 130 grain bullet. Many hunters have said that if this load is not accurate in a .270 Win, sell the rifle. So I will forever have H-4831 on hand. If all else fails, I'll know that I can put together a load that has proven itself where it matters: in the field. </p><p></p><p>I don't get nutted up over a new powder that'll allegedly give me a hundred FPS increase. I would try a new powder if hunters who have actually used it have written that it will shrink groups. After all, a speeding bullet is useless if it can't hit squat. </p><p></p><p>I'd guess that RL-22, IMR-7828, and H-4831 will work very well in all three cartridges for which you load. I'm sure that others will work as well if not better. But it will boil down to cost, how much time you're willing to spend experimenting, and how you define the best load for your rifles. </p><p></p><p>I wish you the best of luck. Heck, I needed a lot of luck when I was in your shoes.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="SansSouci, post: 1235419, member: 84520"] I hear ya, brother. I was in the same boat going down the same non-navigable, tortuous, river of confusion and expense. Muddying the river's waters were introductions of new powder that nuanced a cartridge's performance; well, at least that's how reloading component manufacturers sell it to us. Keep in mind that fishing tackle intent is to catch fisherman. Manufacturers want to separate us from our $$$. I'm a hunter, not a target shooter. So my conclusions are based upon killing big game. My two primary cartridges are .270 Win and 7MM Rem Mag. There are infinite loading combinations for each of these cartridges: brass, primers, powder, and bullets. I've figured out that within reason, accuracy is more important than velocity. A couple hundred FPS ain't gonna affect a bullet's destruction of vital organs. A 400 yard shot is rare. 200 yard shots are far more common, at least they are where I hunt. However, the exception is I've shot two big game animals at distances that have at least double the 200 yard norm. But I never allow an exception modify the rule. Figure out most accurate bullets for the game you intend to hunt, assuming you're a hunter. The same reasoning will hold true for target shooting. I've produced very tiny groups with Sierra GameKing bullets (for deer), and very good groups using Partitions for elk. But I've bought a few boxes of AccuBonds. The unknown factor is whether Accubonds equal the legacy of Partitions. Federal match primers seem to be the gold standard. But I'm sure that others will work just as well. I've used just about all brands of brass. I used to use W-W exclusively. However, W-W quality seems to be less than what it once was. I've since gone with Norma brass. A hundred of each ought to last me a lifetime of hunting. Powder is the irascible variable. H-4831 still works as advertised. I've gotten very tiny groups with IMR-4350. RL-19 & RL-22 might have both beaten in accuracy and velocity. While I've never tried it, IMR-7828 has a huge following. So, here's my advice: start with components that ought to work in your rifles. The best place to start here is reading what shooters of your cartridges have written about various powders. I use loading manuals as reference only. They are not definitive. No one hunts in laboratories. I give much more weight to shooters who have actually fired cartridges in the field and on ranges. If a hunter were to tell me that 62 grains of RL-22 in a .270 Win with 130 grain bullet produces dangerous pressure, I'd stay away from that load. If another hunter writes that 58 grains of RL-22 in a .270 Win gives decent velocity and incredible accuracy, I'd be all over trying that load. Put together five loads of powder charges, increasing by .5 grain. This could take a lot of time, which is why I've researched the heck outta hand loading before I've sunk money on components. For instance, considering the .270 Win, the gold standard load is 60 grains of H-4831 and a 130 grain bullet. Many hunters have said that if this load is not accurate in a .270 Win, sell the rifle. So I will forever have H-4831 on hand. If all else fails, I'll know that I can put together a load that has proven itself where it matters: in the field. I don't get nutted up over a new powder that'll allegedly give me a hundred FPS increase. I would try a new powder if hunters who have actually used it have written that it will shrink groups. After all, a speeding bullet is useless if it can't hit squat. I'd guess that RL-22, IMR-7828, and H-4831 will work very well in all three cartridges for which you load. I'm sure that others will work as well if not better. But it will boil down to cost, how much time you're willing to spend experimenting, and how you define the best load for your rifles. I wish you the best of luck. Heck, I needed a lot of luck when I was in your shoes. [/QUOTE]
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