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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Rifles, Bullets, Barrels & Ballistics
New barrel for Savage 110 BA in 338 LM
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<blockquote data-quote="FrequentFlyer" data-source="post: 959243" data-attributes="member: 75941"><p>Backlash: Very sorry -- and a bit surprised -- to hear that Savage's re-barrel job has gone so poorly. I had a problem with the original barrel on my 110-BA but Savage corrected the issue without delay. They replaced the barrel and accuracy has been very good since then. As for your present frustration, here are a few things that come to my mind (but I imagine you've tried most, if not all, of them already)</p><p></p><ol> <li data-xf-list-type="ol">Rifle considerations<ol> <li data-xf-list-type="ol">Have a runout test performed (with a dial-indicator) to ensure your barrel is straight and perfectly aligned with the receiver. (This test exposed the problem I had with my first Savage barrel.)</li> <li data-xf-list-type="ol">Confirm your floating bolt head doesn't have any burrs or debris impinging its smooth rotation; specifically check the backside of its locking lugs and, possibly with a fiber optic bore camera, the front face of the locking surfaces.</li> <li data-xf-list-type="ol">Confirm your barrel is still full-floating; nothing that's gotten wedged between the barrel and the stock or under the rail.</li> <li data-xf-list-type="ol">Confirm your barrel is torqued to spec.</li> <li data-xf-list-type="ol">Confirm your muzzle crown is unblemished.</li> <li data-xf-list-type="ol">Confirm your muzzle brake is straight and tight.</li> <li data-xf-list-type="ol">Confirm all fasteners that hold the stock together and hold the stock to the action are tight.</li> <li data-xf-list-type="ol">Thoroughly clean then repeat the entire barrel break-in process; i.e. Fire one then clean for 10. Fire three then clean for 30, etc... or whatever your preferred method might be. Expensive (with Lapua Magnum) and time consuming but I've seen some old rifle performances restored to like new through this regime. NOTE: This step might only be useful if the bore was never properly lapped... even then, worrying about barrel break-in at this point is probably "putting the cart before the horse."</li> <li data-xf-list-type="ol">Scope, rings, and base all OK? If possible, test with multiple scopes.</li> </ol> </li> <li data-xf-list-type="ol">Cartridge considerations<ol> <li data-xf-list-type="ol">Seat bullets to within .005" of lands. For my rifle and its fairly new (second) barrel, that currently gives me a C.O.L. of 3.702." The CIP magazine still works at this length. (I know all rifles are a little different in this regard but .005" seems to be a sweet spot for a couple of mine.)</li> <li data-xf-list-type="ol">While I doubt your recipes are to blame, you might consider the one that's worked best for me: Hornady Match 285 gr, 89.0 gr H1000, WLMR primer in a Lapua brass. I've had very good luck with that load across a 65 degree temperature spread: 18F to 83F; achieving 1/2 and sometimes sub-1/2 MOA performance out to 600y. (I don't currently have a place to shoot beyond 600 so can't speak to greater distances with the 110-BA.)</li> </ol> </li> </ol><p>Hope at least a couple of these ideas are helpful. Please keep me posted on your progress. Good luck!</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="FrequentFlyer, post: 959243, member: 75941"] Backlash: Very sorry -- and a bit surprised -- to hear that Savage's re-barrel job has gone so poorly. I had a problem with the original barrel on my 110-BA but Savage corrected the issue without delay. They replaced the barrel and accuracy has been very good since then. As for your present frustration, here are a few things that come to my mind (but I imagine you've tried most, if not all, of them already) [LIST=1] [*]Rifle considerations [LIST=1] [*]Have a runout test performed (with a dial-indicator) to ensure your barrel is straight and perfectly aligned with the receiver. (This test exposed the problem I had with my first Savage barrel.) [*]Confirm your floating bolt head doesn't have any burrs or debris impinging its smooth rotation; specifically check the backside of its locking lugs and, possibly with a fiber optic bore camera, the front face of the locking surfaces. [*]Confirm your barrel is still full-floating; nothing that's gotten wedged between the barrel and the stock or under the rail. [*]Confirm your barrel is torqued to spec. [*]Confirm your muzzle crown is unblemished. [*]Confirm your muzzle brake is straight and tight. [*]Confirm all fasteners that hold the stock together and hold the stock to the action are tight. [*]Thoroughly clean then repeat the entire barrel break-in process; i.e. Fire one then clean for 10. Fire three then clean for 30, etc... or whatever your preferred method might be. Expensive (with Lapua Magnum) and time consuming but I've seen some old rifle performances restored to like new through this regime. NOTE: This step might only be useful if the bore was never properly lapped... even then, worrying about barrel break-in at this point is probably "putting the cart before the horse." [*]Scope, rings, and base all OK? If possible, test with multiple scopes. [/LIST] [*]Cartridge considerations [LIST=1] [*]Seat bullets to within .005" of lands. For my rifle and its fairly new (second) barrel, that currently gives me a C.O.L. of 3.702." The CIP magazine still works at this length. (I know all rifles are a little different in this regard but .005" seems to be a sweet spot for a couple of mine.) [*]While I doubt your recipes are to blame, you might consider the one that's worked best for me: Hornady Match 285 gr, 89.0 gr H1000, WLMR primer in a Lapua brass. I've had very good luck with that load across a 65 degree temperature spread: 18F to 83F; achieving 1/2 and sometimes sub-1/2 MOA performance out to 600y. (I don't currently have a place to shoot beyond 600 so can't speak to greater distances with the 110-BA.) [/LIST] [/LIST] Hope at least a couple of these ideas are helpful. Please keep me posted on your progress. Good luck! [/QUOTE]
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New barrel for Savage 110 BA in 338 LM
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