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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Gunsmithing
Need some fellow gunsmith advice- Ruger .22/45
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<blockquote data-quote="SidecarFlip" data-source="post: 766108" data-attributes="member: 39764"><p>On a late model Ruger semi-auto pistol the magazine insertion does two things. One, it positions the cartridge to get stripped from the magazine by the bolt and two, it engages the hammer spur that allows the sear to actuate. Make sure you have the springs in the right place when you reassemble the hammer. The backside of the engagement spur has to hang behind the magazine well and the spur spring itself rides against the backside of the magazine well, not on the post just behind it.</p><p> </p><p>Contrary to Ruger's instructions, none of my hammers will fall back into the cocked position after bolt insertion, I always have to use a ***** punch to rotate the hammer into the cocked position (after the bolt is inserted).</p><p> </p><p>Keep the bolt lubricated (I use a light machine oil). It's counterproductive as far as powder residue mixing with lubricant is concerned but a necessary evil. Typically, these firearms after hundreds of cycles will start to scuff the bolt's outer diameter because the bolt never moves in a floating manner, but rides the receiver sides...why it's imperative to provide lubrication in lieu of closer machining tolerances.</p><p> </p><p>Most owners are under the impression that just cleaning the bore will 'clean' the action and it won't. They have to be field disassembled (barrel removed from the grip frame, bolt pulled and grips removed and cleaned carefully inside or they will cease to reliably cycle. My term is 'dunking' It needs a bath inside.</p><p> </p><p>One thing you need to watch is the disconnect plunger on the trigger spur. There is a small spring under the plunger and the plunger fits the drillway rather tightly. Any crap from cleaning a really dirty firearm can lodge the plunger against the spring as you fire the gun. That makes disassembling the firearm to correct the issue rather involved because the gun will be cocked to fire, with the jacknife engaged on the hammer strut and putting pressure on the hammer/disconnect assembly basically rendering the gun locked, under pressure. The only way to disassemble it is to pull the grips and drive the hammer pin out, dropping the hammer and spur, a PITA. Then the the jacknife removed.</p><p> </p><p>I work/modify these all the time. You need to be half watchmaker and half braindead to work on them without suffering a nervous breakdown. The parts only fit one way.</p><p> </p><p>I would strongly suggest retrofitting the trigger, sear, sear spring and disconnect plunger and actuator spring with Volquartsen parts. Makes a world of difference in pretravel, creep and sear engagement/release.</p><p> </p><p>It's possible to radius the sear with careful stoning to achieve a cleaner break but why bother when Volquartsen has already done the geometry and modified the release angle.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="SidecarFlip, post: 766108, member: 39764"] On a late model Ruger semi-auto pistol the magazine insertion does two things. One, it positions the cartridge to get stripped from the magazine by the bolt and two, it engages the hammer spur that allows the sear to actuate. Make sure you have the springs in the right place when you reassemble the hammer. The backside of the engagement spur has to hang behind the magazine well and the spur spring itself rides against the backside of the magazine well, not on the post just behind it. Contrary to Ruger's instructions, none of my hammers will fall back into the cocked position after bolt insertion, I always have to use a ***** punch to rotate the hammer into the cocked position (after the bolt is inserted). Keep the bolt lubricated (I use a light machine oil). It's counterproductive as far as powder residue mixing with lubricant is concerned but a necessary evil. Typically, these firearms after hundreds of cycles will start to scuff the bolt's outer diameter because the bolt never moves in a floating manner, but rides the receiver sides...why it's imperative to provide lubrication in lieu of closer machining tolerances. Most owners are under the impression that just cleaning the bore will 'clean' the action and it won't. They have to be field disassembled (barrel removed from the grip frame, bolt pulled and grips removed and cleaned carefully inside or they will cease to reliably cycle. My term is 'dunking' It needs a bath inside. One thing you need to watch is the disconnect plunger on the trigger spur. There is a small spring under the plunger and the plunger fits the drillway rather tightly. Any crap from cleaning a really dirty firearm can lodge the plunger against the spring as you fire the gun. That makes disassembling the firearm to correct the issue rather involved because the gun will be cocked to fire, with the jacknife engaged on the hammer strut and putting pressure on the hammer/disconnect assembly basically rendering the gun locked, under pressure. The only way to disassemble it is to pull the grips and drive the hammer pin out, dropping the hammer and spur, a PITA. Then the the jacknife removed. I work/modify these all the time. You need to be half watchmaker and half braindead to work on them without suffering a nervous breakdown. The parts only fit one way. I would strongly suggest retrofitting the trigger, sear, sear spring and disconnect plunger and actuator spring with Volquartsen parts. Makes a world of difference in pretravel, creep and sear engagement/release. It's possible to radius the sear with careful stoning to achieve a cleaner break but why bother when Volquartsen has already done the geometry and modified the release angle. [/QUOTE]
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Need some fellow gunsmith advice- Ruger .22/45
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