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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Gunsmithing
Need some fellow gunsmith advice- Ruger .22/45
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<blockquote data-quote="SidecarFlip" data-source="post: 765734" data-attributes="member: 39764"><p>I work on an trick out MK II and III's and 22-45's all the time. They are a PITA to reassemble if you don't follow the proper sequence. The Jacknife retainer pin is a bit tricky but you can find the proper sequence on Ruger's website.</p><p> </p><p>Pull the bolt and have a good look at it. Does it show scuff marks on it's outer diameter. Thats a good sign it's had lots of rounds through it and has been neglected as far as cleaning. If the bolt outer face is scuffed, I'd replace both the extractor spur and the firing pin with Volquartsen components and the firing pin spring as well.</p><p> </p><p>The loaded chamber indicator won't hang the bolt. It acts solely on a cartridge in the chamber, it swings out when a cartridge is inserted in the chamber, thats all.</p><p> </p><p>All Ruger 22 pistols like lubrication and they like to be clean inside. problem is, people don't know how to properly clean one. Cleaning thet little semi-auto entails more than a bore scrub, it entails a field strip, removing the barrel and bolt by removing the jacknife and seperating the barrel from the grip frame and then removing the grips and performing what I refer to as a 'dunk' in non-chlorinated brake cleaner. Liberally spray brake cleaner inside the grip frame, washing the powcer residue out the bottom, through the magazine well. Set aside to dry. Take the barrel with the bolt out and again, liberally spray brake cleaner into the receiver area, using a Q tip to get all the powder residue out. Do the same with the bolt. Set aside to dry.</p><p> </p><p>Take the grip frame and apply a drop of gun oil to eadh side of the hammer axle and sear axle and a drop in the disconnect plunger atop the hammer strut. Set aside.</p><p> </p><p>Take the barrel and clean the bore the usual way. Take the bolt and apply a drop of oil to the extractor pivot and the face end of the hammer. Apply a bit of oil to the bolt outer diameter.</p><p> </p><p>Reinstall the barrel on the grip frame according to the Ruger instructions (hammer cocked. Install the bolt, the jacknife (according to Ruger's instructions because the 22-45's are different thatn the Mark's) and install the grips.</p><p> </p><p>They really need a 'dunking' about every 500 discharges, and they like to have the bolt lubricated regularly. The bore needs cleaned every box or so, especially if shooting dirty rounds.</p><p> </p><p>I don't care for the polymer grip frame on the 22-45's but then, thats a personal opinion.</p><p> </p><p>I shoot 2 tricked out Mark 3's in competiton indoor pistol and I've never had issue one with either. BTW, my triggers both pull at less than 1 pound with no creep and no pretravel. You think about it and it goes off.....</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="SidecarFlip, post: 765734, member: 39764"] I work on an trick out MK II and III's and 22-45's all the time. They are a PITA to reassemble if you don't follow the proper sequence. The Jacknife retainer pin is a bit tricky but you can find the proper sequence on Ruger's website. Pull the bolt and have a good look at it. Does it show scuff marks on it's outer diameter. Thats a good sign it's had lots of rounds through it and has been neglected as far as cleaning. If the bolt outer face is scuffed, I'd replace both the extractor spur and the firing pin with Volquartsen components and the firing pin spring as well. The loaded chamber indicator won't hang the bolt. It acts solely on a cartridge in the chamber, it swings out when a cartridge is inserted in the chamber, thats all. All Ruger 22 pistols like lubrication and they like to be clean inside. problem is, people don't know how to properly clean one. Cleaning thet little semi-auto entails more than a bore scrub, it entails a field strip, removing the barrel and bolt by removing the jacknife and seperating the barrel from the grip frame and then removing the grips and performing what I refer to as a 'dunk' in non-chlorinated brake cleaner. Liberally spray brake cleaner inside the grip frame, washing the powcer residue out the bottom, through the magazine well. Set aside to dry. Take the barrel with the bolt out and again, liberally spray brake cleaner into the receiver area, using a Q tip to get all the powder residue out. Do the same with the bolt. Set aside to dry. Take the grip frame and apply a drop of gun oil to eadh side of the hammer axle and sear axle and a drop in the disconnect plunger atop the hammer strut. Set aside. Take the barrel and clean the bore the usual way. Take the bolt and apply a drop of oil to the extractor pivot and the face end of the hammer. Apply a bit of oil to the bolt outer diameter. Reinstall the barrel on the grip frame according to the Ruger instructions (hammer cocked. Install the bolt, the jacknife (according to Ruger's instructions because the 22-45's are different thatn the Mark's) and install the grips. They really need a 'dunking' about every 500 discharges, and they like to have the bolt lubricated regularly. The bore needs cleaned every box or so, especially if shooting dirty rounds. I don't care for the polymer grip frame on the 22-45's but then, thats a personal opinion. I shoot 2 tricked out Mark 3's in competiton indoor pistol and I've never had issue one with either. BTW, my triggers both pull at less than 1 pound with no creep and no pretravel. You think about it and it goes off..... [/QUOTE]
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Need some fellow gunsmith advice- Ruger .22/45
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