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<blockquote data-quote="MachV" data-source="post: 336447" data-attributes="member: 93"><p>IMHO the KISS formula works with a Savage=Keep It Super Simple and in my case CHEAP! The biggest thing Savage has going for it is the ease of doing the improvements yourself.</p><p><strong><em>1.Can anyone give me advice on the bedding? </em></strong></p><p>Beding usualy doesnt hurt and isnt always nessisary. If the stock fails any of these three things I'll make a point to bed it.</p><p>#1 Some people use a dallar to make sure the barrel is free-floated, with a plastic Savage stock fold the dallar a few times= 1/8th" is not too much! Sandpaper around a deep well socket works good to get more room. Moveing the bipod stud back a couple of inches will help a lot.</p><p>#2 Make sure the rear tang is free-floated too!! Work a piece of paper around the edges to tell, there doesnt need to be a big gap but it should not be touching either.</p><p>#3 Loosen the 2 screws holding the stock to the action and retighten. Now with one hand holding the barrel and stock loosen the front action screw and feel for movement....If it moves much your gonna want to bed it...Even if it already has pillars!! </p><p>Beding your first rifle can be a little intimidateing but the Savage is an easy one to start with. If you have a smith do it make sure he knows the difference between a Savage and a Remington= Dont bed the rear tang on a Savage!!</p><p> </p><p><strong><em>2.Can someone explain what, if anything, needs to be done to the action?</em></strong></p><p>The short answer is nuthin. The Savage action by design is very forgiving. Timeing and trueing usually benifit you more than the action, the action will be smoother but very seldom shoots any better. If you reload it may help brass life to reset the headspace with a piece of brass that has been resized in your equipment. Just make sure it passes a no-go safty check when your done!</p><p><strong><em>3.I need some advice on the barrel. If I plan on using 165-168 grain ammo, what rifling am I looking for?</em></strong></p><p>The factory barrel should get you to 500 yards with a little load work. How does it shoot now? An aftermarket 11 or 12 twist will probably be easier to clean and need cleaned less often but may not shoot any better? </p><p> </p><p><strong><em>4. I have been looking at sharp shooter supply and they seem like they know whats up with Savage. If anyone has anything positive or negative to say about them, I would appreciate the input.</em></strong></p><p>Fred knows his way around a Savage so does Kevin Rayhill and many other reputable gunsmiths.</p><p> </p><p>If it aint broke dont fix it. Load developement and practice will make a lot bigger difference on a target than throwing $$$ at it!!</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="MachV, post: 336447, member: 93"] IMHO the KISS formula works with a Savage=Keep It Super Simple and in my case CHEAP! The biggest thing Savage has going for it is the ease of doing the improvements yourself. [B][I]1.Can anyone give me advice on the bedding? [/I][/B] Beding usualy doesnt hurt and isnt always nessisary. If the stock fails any of these three things I'll make a point to bed it. #1 Some people use a dallar to make sure the barrel is free-floated, with a plastic Savage stock fold the dallar a few times= 1/8th" is not too much! Sandpaper around a deep well socket works good to get more room. Moveing the bipod stud back a couple of inches will help a lot. #2 Make sure the rear tang is free-floated too!! Work a piece of paper around the edges to tell, there doesnt need to be a big gap but it should not be touching either. #3 Loosen the 2 screws holding the stock to the action and retighten. Now with one hand holding the barrel and stock loosen the front action screw and feel for movement....If it moves much your gonna want to bed it...Even if it already has pillars!! Beding your first rifle can be a little intimidateing but the Savage is an easy one to start with. If you have a smith do it make sure he knows the difference between a Savage and a Remington= Dont bed the rear tang on a Savage!! [B][I]2.Can someone explain what, if anything, needs to be done to the action?[/I][/B] The short answer is nuthin. The Savage action by design is very forgiving. Timeing and trueing usually benifit you more than the action, the action will be smoother but very seldom shoots any better. If you reload it may help brass life to reset the headspace with a piece of brass that has been resized in your equipment. Just make sure it passes a no-go safty check when your done! [B][I]3.I need some advice on the barrel. If I plan on using 165-168 grain ammo, what rifling am I looking for?[/I][/B] The factory barrel should get you to 500 yards with a little load work. How does it shoot now? An aftermarket 11 or 12 twist will probably be easier to clean and need cleaned less often but may not shoot any better? [B][I]4. I have been looking at sharp shooter supply and they seem like they know whats up with Savage. If anyone has anything positive or negative to say about them, I would appreciate the input.[/I][/B] Fred knows his way around a Savage so does Kevin Rayhill and many other reputable gunsmiths. If it aint broke dont fix it. Load developement and practice will make a lot bigger difference on a target than throwing $$$ at it!! [/QUOTE]
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