Need short #8-40 scope base screws (torx preferably)

Discussion in 'Long Range Scopes and Other Optics' started by ricka0, Apr 25, 2005.

  1. ricka0

    ricka0 Well-Known Member

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    Had Kirby drill/tap the receiver for #8 - I'll never use #6 again. My Leupold torx kit has only 8-40 .278" - which worked fine for the back three screws (which might be OK until I get a short front screw).

    I put a #6-48 .210" in the hole just to check for length - and it was too long. Where can I order #8 torx screws without paying $5 each?

    Thanks to the help on my Savage post I got the correct base in the mail today (Kirby is sending one just in case I had ordered the wrong part)

    BTW, I was going to put my NighForce 8-32x56 BR with NP-R2 on it - but after reading Don's story I think I'll install the loopy 4.5-14x50 until I get the right screw and Burris Xtreme rings.
     
  2. ricka0

    ricka0 Well-Known Member

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    The #8-40 .278" screw that fits in the front doesn't allow the bolt to close - so that screw is too long also. Forgot to check that detail.
     

  3. Gunflash

    Gunflash Member

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    If you need a shorter screw, and can't wait for a your order, file the longer one down.
     
  4. ricka0

    ricka0 Well-Known Member

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    [ QUOTE ]
    file the longer one down.

    [/ QUOTE ]
    I'm barely qualified to sweep up after a machinist. Do I need a #8-40 TPI die to clean the threads after? Should I put the screw into the die at the length I want then file to the base of the die?

    Someone must sell these - gun smiths don't grind custom screws every time they upgrade a receiver to #8
     
  5. Ian M

    Ian M Well-Known Member

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    In my experience it is not uncommon for a gunsmith to carefully grind down a screw or bolt. Have seen it done many times. I usually just put a nut onto the scew, then lock my Dremel into my vise and slowly spin the end of the screw or bolt onto the spinning stone. I have a variable speed Dremel tool, makes this an easy job and the threads always engage nicely, loosening off the nut makes sure of that.
    Good luck, there are lots of situations where screws and bolts have to be modified.
     
  6. Buffalobob

    Buffalobob Writers Guild

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    To elaborate on what Ian says:

    The way I do it is to put a nut on the bolt/screw before filing it down and then when you get it to the right length, unscrew the nut and it automatically cleans up the thread. Put the nut on and off the screw several times to insure it works both ways

    You might get some washers to put on before the nut and space the nut out to where you want to cut it off then you can just grind/file right down till you hit the nut.

    There might be a small tag or metal that has to be pulled off with tweezers so take a careful look before installing it into the rifle. You do not want that tag to jam into the threads
     
  7. 3sixbits

    3sixbits Well-Known Member

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    [ QUOTE ]
    [ QUOTE ]
    file the longer one down.

    [/ QUOTE ]
    I'm barely qualified to sweep up after a machinist. Do I need a #8-40 TPI die to clean the threads after? Should I put the screw into the die at the length I want then file to the base of the die?

    Someone must sell these - gun smiths don't grind custom screws every time they upgrade a receiver to #8

    [/ QUOTE ] Brownell's b1g_bOre: you will find what you need on this link, also look for a screw gizzy at this same site. I made my own about a hundred years ago it seems. But now a days everybody just buys what they need. Hope the link works for you! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif On page 162 Brownell's they have what they call a screw holder gizzie part number #080-554-000. I can't hardly believe they get that kind of money for such a thing, oh well! You will find all kinds of screws, but it is not hard to shorten a screw with out having to chase the threads with a die. I took a flat piece of flat spring stock I had in the shop (scrap) and drilled and tapped various size holes in the #31, #28 and tapped the holes 6-48,8-40 then I took and old popsicle stick and glassed it on to the metal. Holding the stick in one hand and a screwdriver in the other run the screw to be shortened into the gizzy, use the screwdriver to turn the screw while you grind it on your grinder or disk sander. As you back out the screw you chase the threads at the same time. You have got to get that front screw short enough not to cause damage o your rifle barrel threads! If you don't when the barrel is removed the next time the burr on the barrel threads will wipe out the threads in the receiver (THIS IS A BAD THING)You will not like yourself when this happens! Many unpleasant words will be spoken, that are not good for young children or women to hear. Often there is a danger of flying objects too! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/mad.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/mad.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/mad.gif
     
  8. ricka0

    ricka0 Well-Known Member

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    Thanks! I just entered in your part # and it came up. After I put in the promo code, with shipping it only cost me $6.19

    I also ordered Screw Checker/Shortening Jig
    item 080-574-001 which brownells tech support says works with #8 screws.
    When I get done I'll be qualified to sweep a machinists shop /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
     
  9. longtooth

    longtooth Well-Known Member

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    Here is a simple screw jig you can build for grinding. Take an old band saw blade (1 inch or wider X 6 inches) and drill and tap the sizes you need, you may want to go one size over the tap drill size listed and drill past the center of the blade so your out of the harden edge grind down the teeth also. This way you have something to hold on to as you grind and the threads are cleaned as you extract it from the jig.
     
  10. harvey

    harvey Member

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    Jan 27, 2005
    Last time I needed the screws, just called Leupold and they sent me a set, not only base, but rings also.
     
  11. longtooth

    longtooth Well-Known Member

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    well if you want to do it the easy way.