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<blockquote data-quote="BountyHunter" data-source="post: 158160" data-attributes="member: 12"><p>[ QUOTE ]</p><p> Read that twice and tell me how #9 can dissolve the copper in the jag, but NOT dissolve the copper in the barrel... and if that's true, why is the green copper on the patch on the outside where it touches the barrel, and not on the inside, where it touches the jag?? </p><p></p><p>[/ QUOTE ] </p><p></p><p>First off, cleaned hundreds of guns and thousands of patches as a competitive shooter. I have never seen or heard of a wet (you do realize they have to be wet to have solvent on them and as thin as they are they will be wet on both sides) patch having copper color only on one side, carbon yes. Only way that can happen is dry patch which means no solvent to cause a chemical reaction.</p><p></p><p>Now if you leave it in the barrel overnight and run a dry patch yes, you will get color on the outside of the patch. however that also means if you have to leave it overnight to remove copper, then it is really not worth a flip for that in the first place and is not and for "efficiant cleaning" which was the question.</p><p></p><p>Now according to Hoppes, their advertising says 3-4 days for solvents other than their BR copper solvent. That includes #9 unless in your world the "Indian boiler room' also came up with their advertising and marketing info too.</p><p></p><p>Jags and jackets are normally not pure copper, they are really brass (jag) or copper (jacket) alloy (copper, zinc, tin and lead) and all react differently depending on the chemical and exact composition of each component.</p><p></p><p>Jags and solvents can and will give you patch discoloration on a totally clean barrel due to the chemical reaction on the jag. Some faster and some slower.</p><p></p><p>Read the Hoppes Bottle and advertising that was quoted. So you are saying their labeling and advertising is all wrong? </p><p></p><p>Doubt the misinformed one here is Hoppes.</p><p></p><p>Bottom line is still #9 was and is not designed for copper nor is it even remotely a good product for that.</p><p></p><p>Forget the boots, you need to go straight to the waders and old school rubber ones at that. </p><p></p><p>Time to move into 2007 instead of 1950s.</p><p></p><p>BH</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="BountyHunter, post: 158160, member: 12"] [ QUOTE ] Read that twice and tell me how #9 can dissolve the copper in the jag, but NOT dissolve the copper in the barrel... and if that's true, why is the green copper on the patch on the outside where it touches the barrel, and not on the inside, where it touches the jag?? [/ QUOTE ] First off, cleaned hundreds of guns and thousands of patches as a competitive shooter. I have never seen or heard of a wet (you do realize they have to be wet to have solvent on them and as thin as they are they will be wet on both sides) patch having copper color only on one side, carbon yes. Only way that can happen is dry patch which means no solvent to cause a chemical reaction. Now if you leave it in the barrel overnight and run a dry patch yes, you will get color on the outside of the patch. however that also means if you have to leave it overnight to remove copper, then it is really not worth a flip for that in the first place and is not and for "efficiant cleaning" which was the question. Now according to Hoppes, their advertising says 3-4 days for solvents other than their BR copper solvent. That includes #9 unless in your world the "Indian boiler room' also came up with their advertising and marketing info too. Jags and jackets are normally not pure copper, they are really brass (jag) or copper (jacket) alloy (copper, zinc, tin and lead) and all react differently depending on the chemical and exact composition of each component. Jags and solvents can and will give you patch discoloration on a totally clean barrel due to the chemical reaction on the jag. Some faster and some slower. Read the Hoppes Bottle and advertising that was quoted. So you are saying their labeling and advertising is all wrong? Doubt the misinformed one here is Hoppes. Bottom line is still #9 was and is not designed for copper nor is it even remotely a good product for that. Forget the boots, you need to go straight to the waders and old school rubber ones at that. Time to move into 2007 instead of 1950s. BH [/QUOTE]
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