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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
need Need more experienced help
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<blockquote data-quote="codyadams" data-source="post: 2750963" data-attributes="member: 87243"><p>Just for a reference, in a 24" 7 mag with H4831sc and ADG brass, I am running the 143 @ 3250 fps, pressure signs showed up a little over 3300 fps. The Barnes will be noticeably slower due to bearing surface design, and Nosler brass is not near as tough as ADG, however in a 26" 280ai, I would expect the 143 to run 3150ish with H4831sc, and likely a little more with rl23. However, different rifle/ammunition components could make that vary.</p><p></p><p>Assuming all possible rifle/optic issues are addressed....</p><p></p><p>I would do a primer test at a charge weight you know is safe and was accurate in the past. I would start with CCI 200, CCI 250, Federal GM210M and GM215M. Do 5 shot groups of each, in decent conditions, and I prefer to do this at a minimum of 200 yards. Check velocities while doing this. E.S. isn't necessarily important at this point, you may be outside of a charge node, however you will get an idea how the primers affect velocity.</p><p></p><p>Choose the best one, then (if you haven't already) do a rough max pressure work up (in that cartridge, I would do one shat at each charge, increasing .5 grains at a time) so you know where pressure signs start to appear, also documenting velocity, and look for flat spots. Next is either a seating depth test if accuracy isn't very good (i start coarse, .015 jumps, then if needed, fine tune with .002" adjustments), or if it's doing well, a ladder.</p><p></p><p>In that cartridge, I would do 2 rounds each at .2 grain increases, surrounding the velocity range I want to be in, and shoot them at 600-800 yards. I shoot the two rounds of the same charge as quickly as I can accurately and consistently, so they are shot in similar conditions, let the barrel cool between 2 shot groups for hunting rifles.</p><p></p><p>If I don't find a good load doing this, I switch components. But if I start with good components, I rarely have to do that. H4831sc is a great powder for consistency in my experience, so is H4350. I have heard good things about rl23, but haven't tried it myself.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="codyadams, post: 2750963, member: 87243"] Just for a reference, in a 24" 7 mag with H4831sc and ADG brass, I am running the 143 @ 3250 fps, pressure signs showed up a little over 3300 fps. The Barnes will be noticeably slower due to bearing surface design, and Nosler brass is not near as tough as ADG, however in a 26" 280ai, I would expect the 143 to run 3150ish with H4831sc, and likely a little more with rl23. However, different rifle/ammunition components could make that vary. Assuming all possible rifle/optic issues are addressed.... I would do a primer test at a charge weight you know is safe and was accurate in the past. I would start with CCI 200, CCI 250, Federal GM210M and GM215M. Do 5 shot groups of each, in decent conditions, and I prefer to do this at a minimum of 200 yards. Check velocities while doing this. E.S. isn't necessarily important at this point, you may be outside of a charge node, however you will get an idea how the primers affect velocity. Choose the best one, then (if you haven't already) do a rough max pressure work up (in that cartridge, I would do one shat at each charge, increasing .5 grains at a time) so you know where pressure signs start to appear, also documenting velocity, and look for flat spots. Next is either a seating depth test if accuracy isn't very good (i start coarse, .015 jumps, then if needed, fine tune with .002" adjustments), or if it's doing well, a ladder. In that cartridge, I would do 2 rounds each at .2 grain increases, surrounding the velocity range I want to be in, and shoot them at 600-800 yards. I shoot the two rounds of the same charge as quickly as I can accurately and consistently, so they are shot in similar conditions, let the barrel cool between 2 shot groups for hunting rifles. If I don't find a good load doing this, I switch components. But if I start with good components, I rarely have to do that. H4831sc is a great powder for consistency in my experience, so is H4350. I have heard good things about rl23, but haven't tried it myself. [/QUOTE]
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