need mcmillan stock style help A3 or A5

Discussion in 'Equipment Discussions' started by bikehe, Jul 13, 2014.

  1. bikehe

    bikehe Active Member

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    Hi going to purchase a mcmillan for my Rem700 243 SPS Varmit but im not fortunate enough to shoulder one in person and having to wait 8 months after putting deposit down need any advice or help on the style. The rifle is mounted with a nightforce 5.5-22x50 MOAR and will be used for spot lighting foxes using a bipod or backpack. Then I might go goat pig hunting which might require lying down with a bipod or standing position against a tree. The A3 sporter was recommended by the dealer down here but my concern is with the drop in the butt designed for quick shouldering shots will the butt be too low on the shoulder with a nightforce 5.5-22x50 lying down shots compared to the A5 and would the adjustable cheek piece be worth adding?. I will have a sling on it as well for hiking as required. I will use this calibre for 400-500 yard shots and maybe farther as I get it tuned. Any help would be greatly appreciated
     
  2. FearNoWind

    FearNoWind Well-Known Member

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    The most obvious difference between the A3 and A5, IMO, is the dropped toe of the A5. If you're going to use a rear bag at any time that dropped toe helps guide the stock straight back. Otherwise I don't see that there's enough difference between them to matter much.
    I used the A5 for tactical and hunting and it serves both purposes very well.
     

  3. Truc

    Truc Well-Known Member

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    I have two A3 sporters, They work well from either the holding position or from a bag, have not tried it off a bipod but really don't see any problems there either. The standard A3 would not lend it self from a standing position. One of mine is the edge which takes off .4 lbs which helps while standing.
     
  4. bikehe

    bikehe Active Member

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    thanks for the replies so far. Truc do you have the latest style A3 sporter. Mcmillians website only shows an A3 with a straight comb butt, but I thought there was a newer verson of the A3 which is similar in style to a weatherby stock with the raised cheek piece for a remington or have I got it wrong? thanks
     
  5. Truc

    Truc Well-Known Member

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    The A3 Sporter is not like the A3, It is not a raised cheek piece like on a Mountain rifle, but a raised center that would lead to being either left or right hand depending on the cut for the bolt. Sort of like McMillans Varmint stock. Hope this makes sense to you, if not I can take a pic of it and post it, just let me know
     
  6. bikehe

    bikehe Active Member

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    Thanks truc, had to think about it for a minute but totally understand what your saying. I dont like asking people for help but if its not too much trouble is there any chance you could show a pic of one of your A3 sporters please. I will do a search on the forum for more info. Man I hate putting down money blind
     
  7. Truc

    Truc Well-Known Member

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    First thing is you need to decide what type of shooting you will be doing, if it is all long range from a Bipod and never from free hand then Maybe the A3 is better suited but if there is some free hand then the A3 Sporter does both. I made the mistake of trying to go cheap on this rifles first stock and that ended up costing me more. If you want to cut weight like I did with this rifle I chose the Edge version. Rifle weighs without scope 8.5 lbs which is 1 lb less than it did with the first stock. I'm using a VX6 2x12x42 instead of a tactical scope. I like the scope as the eye relief does not change with power adjustments

    IMG_1729.jpg
     
  8. bikehe

    bikehe Active Member

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    Thanks for going to the trouble Truc. The stock for this particular rifle will be at a best guess 95% bipod or resting on something as the 243 is a varmit which is fairly heavy in the front then add that nightforce Hmm, bit of weight there. The other 5% will be the one that I miss that needs a follow up shot. I'm thinking now that the A3 or A5 should serve me well for that so thanks for helping me get back on track and realize this is a varmit setup . Some days I also just enjoy going down the range and letting 20 or so rounds off on the bags. OK I'll drop the sporter, and now there are two to choose from. Do you have an adjustable cheek piece ? and was it worth it
     
  9. Truc

    Truc Well-Known Member

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    I have an A3 on my 28" Sendero barreled 300 Win Mag. I do not have an adjustable cheek piece. The problem I see with an adjustable cheek piece is how can you make sure you have it at the same height each time you lower it to remove the bolt. It might be simple and someone else will speak up but for me when everything is the same all the time you will be a better shooter. The weather and wind will creates enough havoc.
     
  10. bikehe

    bikehe Active Member

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    Thats a very good point regarding the adjustable as I never thought of that. Just been on the mcmillan website and I somehow missed another stock option. Its the remington varmit, it dosnt have as much comb drop as the sporter but has a raised cheek piece after requests from shooters to suit the larger objective bells which should be fine with a NF scope 50mm obj. Has 2" forend for range or varmit shooting so appears to be the best of both worlds for me I think. Cant see going wrong with this one on the 243 maybe except I dont know if the pistol grip on an A3 is the better option. Does it make a difference having vertical grip? Sorry for all the questions but im now down to either the varmint or A3.The decision now is A3 with vertical the verical grip, better moulded section for the thumb and possibly adjustable cheek piece or the varmit with slight drop in comb and raised cheek piece. This is not an easy decision as its going to costaround $1100 down here
     
  11. trebark

    trebark Well-Known Member

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    Given the choice between the A3 and the A5, I have opted for the A3 with an adjustable cheekpiece. Here's why....

    When shooting prone and making elevation adjustments the bottom of the A3 buttstock is 'straight' so a rearbag slides smoothly forward and back. Whereas the A5 has a cutout that does not allow for as much adjustment.

    Both of my stocks have the adjustable cheekpiece. Maybe it's just my physiology but I prefer to have the cheekpiece pretty high and an adjustable cheekpiece is the only way to get that high (my rifles have Leupold MK4s with 50mm objectives, so they are 2" above center of bore).

    In terms of positional shooting, both of my longrange rigs are regularly used in tactical competitions. This means shooting from standing, kneeling, sitting, prone, urban prone, off barricades, off trees, off a pack...all kinds of crazy positions. The A3 performs very well in all positions.

    As I said, given the choice, I take the A3 over the A5. I talk the talk and I walk the walk....

    http://www.longrangehunting.com/forums/f53/my-7saum-hawk-hill-custom-135561/

    http://www.longrangehunting.com/forums/f53/my-260-mcr-59628/
     
  12. bikehe

    bikehe Active Member

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    Ok thanks for all your help and good sound knowledge. Its good to hear from guys that have field use. It appears from all your advice and some searching the interent that the A3 is very popular so Im going down that route with the adjustable cheek piece as it would be better to have it and not need it than need it and not have it, so glad that decision is out of the way, thankyou. That internet searching has led to more questions so,if I can get some further advice on what adjustment type on the cheek piece. Ive read somewhere that the wheel type comes loose? then theres the allen key type, which do you all prefer and is it better to have flush cups front and rear. Can a bipod be mount with flush cups and finally why do some buttstocks have a flush cup on one side. Does this make it more comfortable for a sling over the shoulder? Thanks again
     
  13. trebark

    trebark Well-Known Member

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    Here's my advice on your various questions....

    Cheeckpiece - good decision to go with it. You are right, it is better to have and not want than to want and not have. As for the securing system, I went with the single thumb knob to lock it in place. You can see the knob in the pics. I am unsure if the 'wheel' type slips or not. I would not go with the allen key type as this would require that you have a tool anytime you want to make an adjustment.

    Flush Cups - put them on opposite side of your bolt (not on the bottom). One on the side of the forearm and one in the side of the buttstock. You want them on the side because your rifle will be very tall and if the sling points were on the bottom, your rifle would 'flop' over while being carried. By putting them on the side of your rifle, it will lay nice and flat/stable when being carried. It's also more comfortable.

    Sling Stud - put one on the 'normal' position on the bottom of your stock. This you will be where you will connect your bipod.
     
  14. bikehe

    bikehe Active Member

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    Excellent glad I asked the questions. Will make sure I add these options to my order. Now I just got to decide on a color but I wont ask for help with that as there are plenty of colors posted here and elsewhere. Thanks all againfor great information and being patient with me. Will post a pic when I recieve it probably around 8 months time, maybe earlier if im lucky.