Need help with the dream gun

Discussion in 'Gunsmithing' started by NuttyLemur, Apr 4, 2010.

  1. NuttyLemur

    NuttyLemur Well-Known Member

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    I was looking at a Christensen arms rifle, but the more i read about them the less i want one.

    To the point, i want a 6.5x284, the target is Dall sheep. i also intend to use it on antelope, coyote, and deer.

    My idea. I want to get a Stiller tac300 with an ABS 26'' barrel and an HS precision stock. for a scope i have a Zeiss 6.5-20x50 scope(probably overkill)

    I would love to hear some ideas of where i can get something like that built, prices, lead time, and so on.

    And if anyone has some better ideas i am willing to listen

    thanks.
     
  2. NesikaChad

    NesikaChad Well-Known Member

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    If it were me and I was building a true hunting rifle that's going to get hauled around the wilderness I'd have a few other/more prerequisites.

    your caliber selection is great. It's an appropriate cartridge for what your doing, easy to load, offers great performance, and has very manageable recoil.

    I'd want the rifle easy to carry. Not a 17lb hog for whacking elk at 3/4 of a mile, a nice 11-13lb gun that will not beat a shoulder to death when slung and with a forend narrow enough to be carried by hands less than the size of a gorilla.

    A repeater with an internal box and hinged floor plate OR a blind box and just a trigger guard. Detachable magazines on hunting guns have their place, but on a mountain rifle I doubt you'll be getting into a fire fight with a goat.

    So (drum roll please) This is what I'd suggest after doing a fair share of these kinds of guns.

    A McMillan Hunter edge stock in carbon that's been fitted/bedded/assembled by someone who knows how to build a nice gun.
    Any marquee brand #4 fluted barrel in 6.5 with an 8 or 8.5 twist rate
    A good quality floor metal like Sunny Hill
    Any marquee custom action in 1.350 diameter with a Remington style tang
    A good trigger (jewel being my choice)
    either a Mil Std base (although it's a bit "russian" for a gun like this) or the excellent Talley bases/rings


    chambers: This is a working gun. You don't need or want a neck turn ackley improved, shoots the bullets backwards wildcat minimum saami spec chamber of the week cartridge. It needs to WORK when (not if, when:D)you miss and run that bolt at full throttle to make a second attempt on that once in a lifetime animal running away from you.

    The std 6.5-284 or maybe even the .297ND 6.5 set up for 140 grain bullets (.105" FB) is a great choice. You size em, load em, shoot em. No loading bench brain damage!

    That's my over opinionated opinion and I do build these for a living.

    Good luck!

    Chad
     
    Last edited: Apr 4, 2010

  3. NuttyLemur

    NuttyLemur Well-Known Member

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    now thats the gun i am talking about.

    missed one question the big one. what would something like that cost. and how long to build it.
     
  4. NesikaChad

    NesikaChad Well-Known Member

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    Obviously sky is the limit. Keeping it sane/realistic figure this for a good top shelf component rifle.

    1100-1500 for the action
    350-450 for the barrel
    220 for the trigger
    350 for the floor metal (sunny hill, spendy but WORTH IT)
    300 for the stock blank
    150 for a rail or bases (give or take)
    100-170 for the rings (give or take)
    60-70 bucks in hardware/recoil pad
    600-1500 for your glass
    200 for a good quality case to ship it (pelican is what I encourage)
    100 bucks for a brake (not needed in this case)

    Labor:

    1100 to stock it and squirt a base/spatter finish
    250-300 for fitting the barrel (fluted costs more)
    125 for a muzzle brake (again not really needed in this case)
    250+ for any hand airbrushed camo patterns
    200 to assemble, break in, range test
    50-70 to ship it

    About 8 weeks depending on the paint work. That's with all the parts on the floor and ready to go. Waiting on outside vendors is the riff with this trade. Were at the mercy of their delivery date.

    Cheers,

    C
     
  5. Chas1

    Chas1 Well-Known Member

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    Nuttylemur, If you've seen some of Chad's work posted in numorous threads here on LRH I don't think you'd be disappointed. From what I've read I think his advice on cartridge selection etc is down to Earth not only in the case of your potential build but other posts where Chad has given advice to others contemplating builds. IMHO I consider Chad to be in the same company as a number of excellent smiths here on LRH.

    Chad, how about sharing your process for communication with clients such as photos/progress/quick notes, burned to disk etc...maybe in a PM.
     
  6. NuttyLemur

    NuttyLemur Well-Known Member

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    i agree with everything he said, except on 2 points, i would rather have the HS precision stock (sporter stock w/blind magazine) and i would like an ABS carbon wrapped barrel.
     
  7. shortgrass

    shortgrass Well-Known Member

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    I kind of like Chads ideas, too. I've used Williams bottom metal on several of my builds and been very satisfied, nice fit and finish, not quit as pricey as the Sunnyhill. Don't know as I have to go with Jewell trigger, they are a fine piece of machinery, though, and I do have several on different varmint rifles. I've always been able to adjust a Shilen Std. trigger to a satisfing pull (2lbs.) on my big game rifles. Just a few different ideas, that's why they call 'um custom. As long as you use quality components and a 'smith that knows how and will, you'll end up with a fine rifle for your purposes. Chad's right about the suppliers, too. Be prepared to wait! That custom stuff just isn't sitting on a shelf somewhere waiting. gun)
     
  8. NuttyLemur

    NuttyLemur Well-Known Member

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    i have nothing but time, i will be in Iraq for another 10 months or so.

    i just want to know when i should order and who from.

    And more ideas couldnt hurt. its my first build so i want to do it right.
     
  9. Chas1

    Chas1 Well-Known Member

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    It's not uncommon to wait a year or so. Once you've nailed down what you want, select a smith, then the smith can give you an approxiamate date.
     
  10. NuttyLemur

    NuttyLemur Well-Known Member

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    Another question, is it better for me to buy all the parts and then hire someone to build it, or just tell someone what i want and let them do it?

    Any other gunsmiths have a price, suggestion, idea, maybe some pictures, and some references of people i can talk to?
     
  11. NesikaChad

    NesikaChad Well-Known Member

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    Where you at bud? I worked all over that _hit hole with the spooks for 3 years.

    Stay safe. Indirect fire is a biche!
     
  12. NesikaChad

    NesikaChad Well-Known Member

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    "Doing it right" means different things to different people.


    This is H/S as you buy it;


    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]



    Mine:

    Freshly bedded Stolle Swindlehurst 22LR bench gun before heading to the paint shop for Cobalt Blue base and Platinum Ghost flames. (still waiting on painter)

    [​IMG]



    300-338 Lapua Magnum stock. 5 year old gun and the bedding still shines. . .

    [​IMG]


    Recently delivered 6.5-284 coyote rifle

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  13. NuttyLemur

    NuttyLemur Well-Known Member

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    Off topic:

    Currently i am in Baghdad (2010-? second tour) intel work

    last time i was all over the place from the syrian border in the north to the kuwait border in the south. cav. scout (2003-04, first tour)

    so far its not bad.
     
  14. Chas1

    Chas1 Well-Known Member

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    Nuttylemur, IMHO I would not buy all the parts. It's ok to have a well researched and thought out list of parts but, after I select a smith I would communicate what your looking for including your reccomended parts list and then let the smith give it a once over...ya never know, you don't want to spend the money on a particular part only to find out there's a better way or part or something. Just my 2 cents, hopefully Chad and others will weigh in with their thoughts.