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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Rifles, Bullets, Barrels & Ballistics
Need help on fire forming 280AI brass
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<blockquote data-quote="wwbrown" data-source="post: 1206922" data-attributes="member: 31392"><p>The 280 Ackley is headspaced different from most of the other Ackley's like I said in the earlier reply the shoulder is not just blown out but blown forward, where as most Ackley's just blow the shoulder forward. When headspacing the traditional Ackley the go gauge for the parent cartridge becomes the nogo gauge for the Ackely. When chambering non-fireformed parent brass you get a slight crush fit on the brass this is where the slight resistance comes when closing the bolt.</p><p></p><p>When I chamber a traditional Ackley and don't have go gauges specifically made for the Ackley I cut the chamber 0.004" short of the go gauge of the parent cartridge. When I order a reamer for an Ackley I just get a go gauge cut for that chamber then I can chamber normally.</p><p></p><p>For the 280 AI the shoulder is blown forward so you don't get a crush on the shoulder so either you start out with 30-06 brass and form a false shoulder by necking a portion of the 30-06 to 280 leaving the rest of the neck at original diameter. The portion of the neck at original diameter keeps the brass from moving forward when fired or possibly from the firing pin moving the brass forward when hitting the primer. Without the false shoulder you can seat the bullet long so it engages the rifling hard which usually keeps the brass pushed back when the firing pin hits.</p><p></p><p>Forming and fore forming brass for the original 280 AI is much like forming brass for the 6 mm Dasher because the Dasher shoulder is blown out and forward of the parent (6 mm BR) the same as the 280 AI. If you start with 280 brass you can run an 30 cal expander opening the neck up and then following up with by using your 280 AI die to form the false shoulder like I have when I go with the 30-06 brass, this is a very common way for 6mm Dasher brass forming.</p><p></p><p>Shortgrasss, I guess I have not answered your question re: resistance when closing the bolt on my 280 AI when fireforming brass and I did not since there is no interference between shoulder and the chamber due to using the go gauge as a no go gauge.</p><p></p><p>This is about I have to say on this subject, I have gotten into arguments on the chambering and fireforming brass for the 280 AI on other forums when people assume the 280 AI has the shoulder blown out and not moved forward.</p><p></p><p>Have a good day all!</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="wwbrown, post: 1206922, member: 31392"] The 280 Ackley is headspaced different from most of the other Ackley's like I said in the earlier reply the shoulder is not just blown out but blown forward, where as most Ackley's just blow the shoulder forward. When headspacing the traditional Ackley the go gauge for the parent cartridge becomes the nogo gauge for the Ackely. When chambering non-fireformed parent brass you get a slight crush fit on the brass this is where the slight resistance comes when closing the bolt. When I chamber a traditional Ackley and don't have go gauges specifically made for the Ackley I cut the chamber 0.004" short of the go gauge of the parent cartridge. When I order a reamer for an Ackley I just get a go gauge cut for that chamber then I can chamber normally. For the 280 AI the shoulder is blown forward so you don't get a crush on the shoulder so either you start out with 30-06 brass and form a false shoulder by necking a portion of the 30-06 to 280 leaving the rest of the neck at original diameter. The portion of the neck at original diameter keeps the brass from moving forward when fired or possibly from the firing pin moving the brass forward when hitting the primer. Without the false shoulder you can seat the bullet long so it engages the rifling hard which usually keeps the brass pushed back when the firing pin hits. Forming and fore forming brass for the original 280 AI is much like forming brass for the 6 mm Dasher because the Dasher shoulder is blown out and forward of the parent (6 mm BR) the same as the 280 AI. If you start with 280 brass you can run an 30 cal expander opening the neck up and then following up with by using your 280 AI die to form the false shoulder like I have when I go with the 30-06 brass, this is a very common way for 6mm Dasher brass forming. Shortgrasss, I guess I have not answered your question re: resistance when closing the bolt on my 280 AI when fireforming brass and I did not since there is no interference between shoulder and the chamber due to using the go gauge as a no go gauge. This is about I have to say on this subject, I have gotten into arguments on the chambering and fireforming brass for the 280 AI on other forums when people assume the 280 AI has the shoulder blown out and not moved forward. Have a good day all! [/QUOTE]
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Need help on fire forming 280AI brass
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