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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Gunsmithing
Need Help For 17 Rem
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<blockquote data-quote="Trickymissfit" data-source="post: 432210" data-attributes="member: 25383"><p>I gather it's got to be a 17 caliber, and maybe just has to be a 17 Remington. Personally I'd build a 17 Mach IV, or a 17/.222. With a 21" barrel (or even a 20" barrel #5 contour). As for barrels, it looks to me like your after a varmit rig, so I'd just order in a Shilen prefit. It's shipped a few thousandths short, so you'll need a reamer. Or even easier yet is to just send the action over to Pacnor. They'll set it up for you (have your action trued upbefore you fit the barrel of course). </p><p> </p><p> I only own one Remington these days, and it's a 20" barreled .223 with a .246 neck chamber in it. It has the same basic barrel it came from the factory with, but has been cut off at both ends to try and save it from the trash bin. The gun has a near perfect balance, even with the Remington varmit barrel. And is a pleasure to shoot off hand! I gave up on the factory Remington trigger, and never could get it ironed out. It's now got a 1978 reworked factory trigger in it set at 2 lb. Still I long for an even better trigger assembly, but do not want to use a Jewell! I also reworked the bolt head for an M16 extractor (the factory extractor was messing up the case heads), and did a minor rework of the ejector pin & spring. Now the cases are falling right beside the port with little if any damage done to the case head. I would also buy a Holland recoil lug, and firing pin spring (forget the Tubbs one). Pillar bed the action and bed the recoil lug with steel bed or something close to that. I used a Burris base, but if I had to do all over again I'd use a Ferrall with Burris Signature rings. Bed the base to the action just like you bed the action to the stock.</p><p> </p><p> gary</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Trickymissfit, post: 432210, member: 25383"] I gather it's got to be a 17 caliber, and maybe just has to be a 17 Remington. Personally I'd build a 17 Mach IV, or a 17/.222. With a 21" barrel (or even a 20" barrel #5 contour). As for barrels, it looks to me like your after a varmit rig, so I'd just order in a Shilen prefit. It's shipped a few thousandths short, so you'll need a reamer. Or even easier yet is to just send the action over to Pacnor. They'll set it up for you (have your action trued upbefore you fit the barrel of course). I only own one Remington these days, and it's a 20" barreled .223 with a .246 neck chamber in it. It has the same basic barrel it came from the factory with, but has been cut off at both ends to try and save it from the trash bin. The gun has a near perfect balance, even with the Remington varmit barrel. And is a pleasure to shoot off hand! I gave up on the factory Remington trigger, and never could get it ironed out. It's now got a 1978 reworked factory trigger in it set at 2 lb. Still I long for an even better trigger assembly, but do not want to use a Jewell! I also reworked the bolt head for an M16 extractor (the factory extractor was messing up the case heads), and did a minor rework of the ejector pin & spring. Now the cases are falling right beside the port with little if any damage done to the case head. I would also buy a Holland recoil lug, and firing pin spring (forget the Tubbs one). Pillar bed the action and bed the recoil lug with steel bed or something close to that. I used a Burris base, but if I had to do all over again I'd use a Ferrall with Burris Signature rings. Bed the base to the action just like you bed the action to the stock. gary [/QUOTE]
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Need Help For 17 Rem
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