Need Advice... Newby...

Discussion in 'The Basics, Starting Out' started by Sapphire, Mar 8, 2011.

  1. Sapphire

    Sapphire Well-Known Member

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    So, I have this Mod 70 300 WM, it has the standard wood stock and has the boss with brake on the barrel. I picked this gun up a couple years ago for a song... Oh yeah, its the classic with the controlled feed... anyhow, I shot it maybe 5-6 times at 50 yards... then I killed a doe with it at about 40 yards... the noise kills me, so I just continued to carry my Abolt 30-06.

    My question is... with the standard sporter contoured barrel, boss or not, is it realistic to try and turn the gun, as is, into a thousand yarder? A 600 yarder? I have not shot this gun over 50 yards. I assume about "any" decent rifle shoots close to MOA right? I do reload and enjoy working a load up.

    IF I can stick with this barrel... where can I find a tactical stock, for a reasonable price, that fits that barrel diameter? I see most all TAC stocks fit heavy barrels??

    Also, if the gun is a shooter at 300 off the bench, I am going to HAVE to get a new scope for the longer stuff.... I need recommendations. Do I NEED a 6-24 or can I do well with a 4-16 or something like that?

    Sure appreciate your time and advice!

    Ernie
     
  2. MontanaRifleman

    MontanaRifleman Well-Known Member

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    Ernie,

    I'm not familiar with the M 70, but I'll try to give you some general advise. You should be able to get a B&C Medalist with aluminum bedding block for that rifle for about $250 - $300. That should give you a good platform to start with. it would be best to get it skimmed bedded also. As for how far you can shoot accurately enough to hunt with, you'll just have to shoot it and find out. I wouldn't be real optimistic about 1000 yds, but it might be a 600 yd or so hunter.... who knows, maybe farther?

    In order to increase your effective range from the normal 300 yds or so, there are some things you'll need to do, starting with getting a descent stock and bedding it.

    First, scope... depending on how far you want to shoot, you will need a scope that can get you there. Out to 600 yds there are a lot of good options with BDC type reticles that will get you close enough for a kill shot. For farther shooting, you need to start looking at a good dial scope, with reliable and repeatable turrets with enough travel for the ballistic curve and distance you need/want. You can use 20 and 40 MOA bases to help accomplish this.

    Range Finder... Obviously, determining range is critical, At extended ranges, bullets drop quickly and a miscalculated distance will result in a miss or bad shot. I've got a Lieca 1200 and 1600. the 1200 usually ranges 600-1400 yds in a wide variety of conditions. The 1600 does a couple hundred yards better with angle, temp and pressure info as well. Temp is not very critical, pressure and angle are in some cases.

    Ammo... You'll need a good consistant load and the best way to accomplish that is by making it yourself. You can choose what brass, powder and bullets you want and tailor a load that your rifle likes. Most dies are good and some maybe a little better than others. I recommend Redding or Hornady New Dimension FL sizers and Competition seaters. IMO, the Competition seater is the most important part of the equation, assuming that all your other prep and load work is consistent.

    Having said that, do you plan to make the 300 WM a chamber that you want to stick with? If not, you might not want to invest much resources into that barrel. A 300 WM will usually burn out in about 1000-1500 rounds and if well maintained, and I'm guessing you don't know the condition of that barrel? If you can find a smith or someone who will bore scope for you, that would be a good idea, unless you just want to shoot it til it goes south.

    Once you do burn the barrel out, you can get a custom match grade barrel for about $300 or so and chambered, crowned and threaded for another couple hundred, and and action trued and blue printed for another couple of hundred or so.

    Do some searches on these topics and read up. There's a lot of good info available.

    Welcome to LRH :)

    -Mark
     

  3. roninflag

    roninflag Well-Known Member

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    the 300 win mag is a great long range rouhnd. you say "if it is a shooter at 300 off the bench"- if your model 70 shoots a groups smaller than 3" at 300 you are good to go. scope power does not matter. i would want a muzzle break i wear muffs and puffs. i would want a scope i could dial up to the actual range.
     
  4. Sapphire

    Sapphire Well-Known Member

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    Thanks Mark (Dobrenski?),

    I will keep all that in mind... I have reloaded quite a while, but have never been a stickler on some of the things you guys do, like brass tolerances and such... but am willing to learn! i do weigh powder to near exact measures...

    Yeah... a barrel is probably in the works, so I dont want to get a stock that fits teh sporter contour if I'm going to end up with a thicker barrel... or...do I NEED to end up with a thicker barrel?? Are custom, match grade barrels of lighter contour acceptable?

    Must be, cause I've googled LR setups over and over again the last few days and see some big dollar, LR rifles with sporter contours...

    Thanks

    PS...anyone know anything about the stock Mod 70 trigger???
     
  5. MontanaRifleman

    MontanaRifleman Well-Known Member

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    Mark Weiser from Bozeman

    Some of these guys have made some tack driving lightweights but the pluses for a heavier barrel are stiffer barrel for same length which dampens harmonics and they absorb and disapate heat a little better which is nice for load work. Basically your call. I carry around a Sendero, that with the NF scope and bipod weighs about 12.5 lbs, over plains and in the mountains. It is possible to shave a few pounds and have a good LR shooter. I like something a little heavier.
     
  6. Sapphire

    Sapphire Well-Known Member

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    Right on...

    Does anyone know what fluting can save in weight....bolt and barrel?

    I was messing with my main gun tonight, a Browning Abolt 06'... man that thing is light...I need to weigh it...
     
  7. MontanaRifleman

    MontanaRifleman Well-Known Member

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    The rule of thumb for fluting is that it will save you about the weight of a countour, i.e., a fluted #4 will weigh about the same as an unfluted #3. The advantage is that a fluted barrel of the same weight as an unfluted barrel will be stiffer than the unflutted barrel, i.e., the fluted #4 will be stiffer than the unfluted #3, but... a fluted #4 will not be stiffer than an unfluted #4. Cooling is a very minimal benefit.

    If you search the forums, you'll find a lot of tips on shaving weight. Shaving down the action, going with a short action chambering, hollowing out the bolt, shorter and slimmer barrel, light weight stock, like a Lone Wolf Summit or Summit XL - not cheap. Many of these weight saving measures will have a cost in performance. You just don't see light barrels on the BR firing line or winning very many accuracy competitions, although you can get some very good shooters. On average, a heavier barrel will be more consistently accurate and a longer barrel will gwet you farther down range. The most potent short action LR chambering would be the 300 WSM and in a short action, you would not be able to load some of the longer high BC bullets and fit them in the mag box for a repeater.
     
  8. Sapphire

    Sapphire Well-Known Member

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    it appears from a little research I did on Liljas site, that my normal sporter contour is probably about a 3 or 4 huh? Sounds like you can get pretty darn good accurracy out of one if its a good barrel...

    I am thinking a fluted 5 might be the trick though! Now to decide what cartridge...

    On another subject, do you guys know if my 700 BDL SA will drop into a 700 ADL SA stock?

    THanks