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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Rifles, Bullets, Barrels & Ballistics
Necking down cases ...
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<blockquote data-quote="4mesh063" data-source="post: 26618" data-attributes="member: 941"><p>I use soft dies also but have no problems as Brent mentioned. What kind of lube do you use? I use the water base stuff and my cases actually spring out of the die without being pulled. These are dies I made but I have cold rolled steel dies that nothing sticks to. I get about the same results with Lee and Redding dies as well. I can harden all mine if I want but I see no difference and don't want to waste the time in the furnace to heat treat them. If they're clean and lubed, there's not a reason in the world a case should stick. </p><p></p><p>The case Ken Markle necks down is a 416 Rigby. It's shortened a ton also so he is using the same wall for a neck that I do on mine, just farther down. The wall thickness on the body is significant beforehand. Where his neck is the wall is about .028 to 030 and the diameter is around .570. He necks that down to hold a .264 and gains approx .007 from what Brent is saying. I'd agree with that figure and that's not much thickness to gain necking down 300 thou. I would "Borrow" a few pieces of brass from someone before doing this excercise and try it out for yourself because you may make a lot of work for yourself and not gain a enough in your neck thickness when you're done to warrant the time. I'd bet good money you won't see .003 and I'd be surprised it you get .001 on anything other than the 30-06 to 25. If that's enough, go for it. Otherwise, I'd get some spare brass from someone before buying a bag of 100.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="4mesh063, post: 26618, member: 941"] I use soft dies also but have no problems as Brent mentioned. What kind of lube do you use? I use the water base stuff and my cases actually spring out of the die without being pulled. These are dies I made but I have cold rolled steel dies that nothing sticks to. I get about the same results with Lee and Redding dies as well. I can harden all mine if I want but I see no difference and don't want to waste the time in the furnace to heat treat them. If they're clean and lubed, there's not a reason in the world a case should stick. The case Ken Markle necks down is a 416 Rigby. It's shortened a ton also so he is using the same wall for a neck that I do on mine, just farther down. The wall thickness on the body is significant beforehand. Where his neck is the wall is about .028 to 030 and the diameter is around .570. He necks that down to hold a .264 and gains approx .007 from what Brent is saying. I'd agree with that figure and that's not much thickness to gain necking down 300 thou. I would "Borrow" a few pieces of brass from someone before doing this excercise and try it out for yourself because you may make a lot of work for yourself and not gain a enough in your neck thickness when you're done to warrant the time. I'd bet good money you won't see .003 and I'd be surprised it you get .001 on anything other than the 30-06 to 25. If that's enough, go for it. Otherwise, I'd get some spare brass from someone before buying a bag of 100. [/QUOTE]
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